has anyone done led lights? i am thinking of reworking the originals to house led light pannels?
has anyone done led lights? i am thinking of reworking the originals to house led light pannels?
You mean the turn signals and tail lights?
Members have worked in the 4 inch round LED discs after the inside of the housing was turned on a lathe to get the protrusions out of the way...worked well.
Others are using mil lights that are made with the LED's in them.
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
yes similar i was thinking useing luxeon high intensity single led lights inside the housing.
If you go with LED for the blinkers, and they are not the military Grote manufactured LED units, you will need to add in resistors. Otherwise, your blinker box won't ever build up enough heat to blink.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
isnt the blinker controlled but the solid state relay? So what your saying is that its a heat relay. i really dont know. id have to look again to be for sure when i get back to my truck. if so it will just be easier to keep the bulb for now atleast for the blinker till i get the circut figured out.
Early model turn signals used a Tunsol (sp?) bie-metalic switch inside the box on the firewall with all the wires attached. Later turn signals were solid state.
Because LED's draw far less current than standard bulbs, they can make the turn signals flash too fast or not at all...depends on the system...the early setup doesnt flash...the solid state...might be too fast or not...dont know.
To fix this people install resistors in the line so that the system sees the ame type of current draw, or close to anway, that it did with the original bulbs.
Search on google...Im sure there are tons of explanations for that...
Someone who knows electrical far better than I can probably tell you how much resistance you need...sorry I dont know that...
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
Oh i under stand now i will get the circut figured out some time for the flashers. thx for the in put
For the old style turn signal, you don't need to add any resistors at all.
A fixed resistor and the resistance of one relay coil in the distribution box along with the resistance of the column indicator light determine the flash rate. These are connected in series with the Tunsol (sp?) bi-metallic switch mentioned above. This circuit is across the line and is totally independent of the lighting load (quantity of lights).
This design allows for different types of trailers, with almost any number of lights (up to the circuit capacity), to be connected without changing the flash rate.
I think this constant rate is also true for the later solid-state turn signal but can't say for sure. I don't have one to confirm this. Maybe someone else can check it out. I suspect it will flash at a constant with no lights at all.
It is true that resistors are needed when using LED lights on domestic vehicles with two post flasher units as the load determines the flash rate.
The Old style flasher circuit current flow can be seen on the diagrams near the bottom of this page (dashed lines).
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=early_harness
Somehow this brings up memories. Thanks Again Gary, my blinkers and lights still work great. Now I have a reason to use them, maybe this weekend the M truck will be let out.
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