Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: What is the purpose of manual locking hubs?

  1. #1

    Default What is the purpose of manual locking hubs?

    OK, I dont claim to know everything. What are the main benifits of manual locking hubs?

    Wear and tear?
    Mileage?
    What?

    Will the hubs truly lock the front hubs? I was screwing around in the snow and got suck, one of the front tires was in a 4 ft snow drift. the other was on ice. The one on ice was spinning the other was not. Will manual hubs help?
    1968 M715
    1952 M38

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    The purpose of manual (or auto-locking) hubs is to positively lock or unlock the hubs from the axle.

    In 2WD:
    When unlocked, only the wheels are spinning when driving down the road, not the entire front axle, differential and driveshaft. When locked, the entire assembly is spinning which creates wear and reduces mileage due to resistance.

    In 4WD:
    When unlocked, the entire front assembly would spin but not drive the wheels with it. When locked, it turns the wheels, as well. There is not much point in having the hubs unlocked in 4WD unless you want to run in low range in 2WD.

    Locking hubs will not help in the situation you describe. The reason you have one tire spinning is because you have an open differential up front. An open differential allows one tire to spin and not the other. To lock the two wheels together, you need a differential locker which will lock both wheels to spin together.
    1967 M715 w/w #11812

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    ^^Very good info^^

    Only thing I will add is that...on these trucks with the closed knuckle front and lockout hubs, the top kingpin bearing does not get lubed when the hubs are unlocked.

    It is therefore VERY advisable to lock the hubs in every so often to let lube get up to the upper kingpin bearing.

    Thanks to Barrman for pointing that out a while back!
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  4. #4

    Default

    So there is not a hude advantage to adding locking hubs if I dont have them. Is that what I am reading

    thanks
    1968 M715
    1952 M38

  5. #5

    Default

    With manual locking hubs, unlocked you will have less drag from the front-end which will result in an increase in mileage and overall performance. With the hubs locked there is not difference from stock.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    There is a BIG advantage:

    Stock, in 2wd, the wheel, tire, wheel bearings, hub, drum, axle shaft, spider gears, ring gear, pinion gear, front driveshaft, and the first gear in the transfer case ALL TURN...not because they are being driven by the transfer case but because the tire is turning from driving and they are all connected.

    Add the hubs and put them in free wheeling mode. The plate at the end of the axle is removed...it has a well with splines in it. The splines fit the end of the axle. This plates bolted to the hub. When aftermarket hubs go on, there is a splined piece in them that fits on the axle and this selectable hub is bolted to the wheel hub...BUT...in this selectable hub is a cam and a big spring that, when the knob on the outside is turned, causes the splined piece to move away from the axle. So then the axle shaft is NOT connected to the wheel hub and just because the wheel hub turns, the axle doesnt have to...or any components farther back to the transfer case as well.

    Now, in 2wd, the wheel, tire, wheel bearings, hub, and drum turn...
    BUT the axle shaft, spider gears, ring gear, pinion gear, front driveshaft, and the first gear in the transfer case do NOT turn.


    This really reduces the amount of gas pedal one need to drive at the same speed...it is REALLY like driving with the emergency brake on or with a BIG weight hooked to the pintle hitch...and then turning off the brake or cutting the load loose.
    MPG definitely increases...mine did about 3 mpg...power definitely increases...acceleration will surprise you even with the 230!!

    Not to menton the reduced wear and tear on a pair of ujoints, the front axle and differential...

    This is a GOOD swap...worth the money.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    west central wisconsin
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Another option is to machine the splines out of a set of flanges so the axle doesn't engage. When 4 wheel drive is needed ,bolt the splined flanges on.


    DJ
    DaveJ

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Another reason for manual hubs is if you add a locker to the front differential. Without being able to disengage the hubs, steering would be very difficult with a locked front differential.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  9. #9

    Default

    So, if I buy the selectro locking hubs do I just unbolt the existing stock hub cover and bolt the new aftermarket hubs on? Is it that easy?
    1968 M715
    1952 M38

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    Yep. Well a light coat of grease in the Selectros...DO NOT pack them with grease!!

    The hardest part of the job for me was getting the stock ones off...hitting in the center of it HARD wih a hammer helps...if you have to use a chisel or the like on the parting line, just be careful...if you score up the surface, they wont go back on and seal nice.

    It is a good idea to cary the stock driving flanges in the glove box in case you blow a Selectro off road...it can be done...not real easy but possible over time...so then you can bolt the stockers back on and drive out if need be.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

Similar Threads

  1. Manual Errors about hubs?
    By rboltz in forum Stock Tech
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: May 9th, 2008, 12:14 AM
  2. Locking Hubs
    By CSG1948 in forum Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: January 10th, 2008, 09:15 PM
  3. manual hubs
    By green goat in forum Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: June 14th, 2007, 02:35 PM
  4. Locking Hubs-for a stock M715-What is everyone using?
    By Nuke_Danarchy in forum Modified Tech Archives
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: April 29th, 2004, 08:16 PM
  5. Rear locking hubs?
    By Mikel in forum Modified Tech Archives
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: March 21st, 2004, 09:09 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


Site Upgrade, Design Modifications & Administrative Support by:
Palm River Enterprises LLC, IT Solutions
President: Tom King, User ID=teking
This site is owned and operated by:
M715 Zone, LLC
President: Jon Schmidt, User ID=brute4c


If you have any suggestions, comments, problems or questions, contact:  brute4c@m715zone.com
Use of this site means you understand and agree to our TERMS OF USE

Copyright Notice:
This web site is subject to the protection of the copyright laws of the United States and other countries. Except for Personal Use Only, you may not modify, copy, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce, publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained from any part of the M715 Zone website without the prior written permission of M715 Zone, LLC. Written permission can only be obtained by contacting brute4c@m715zone.com

Copyright 1998-2024