motor mount snafu

[jpsnblood]

well this aint gonna work


I am trying too find a post showing a transdapt or advanced adapters motormount.
I could swear I've seen one using the shock mount bolt holes.
I don't want to beat up firewall. I worked too hard too get rid of the rust.
If any body has used one of the commercially available motor mount adapters please let me know how it worked out.

[randyscycle]

I just think you're going to have to switch out the exhaust manifolds. I don't see much way around that issue without some major surgery. Later model SB Chevy manifolds dump at the rear and still didn't have A.I.R. ports.

[jpsnblood]

I just think you're going to have to switch out the exhaust manifolds. I don't see much way around that issue without some major surgery. Later model SB Chevy manifolds dump at the rear and still didn't have A.I.R. ports.

going to cut off frame horns. By getting ride of them I should be able too eventually swap out the vette 2 1/2 ramhorns to block hugger shortys.
Thanks for the input.

[randyscycle]

Any particular reason for doing it that way?

Seems a lot simpler to just swap out the manifolds to me. Less mods, and done in less than an hour. Plus no mods to the original motor mount bosses.

If you're looking for flow, then maybe, but even then, it is an M715 and all......If I remeber correctly though, I have seen a shorty, center dump header that has a backward angle to the collector. Just don't remember exactly where though.

[randyscycle]

One other thing I'd do were it me: I'd place the plate on the engine block, then mount the motor mount to it, so there'd be less stress on the plate. Three bolts holding the plate to the block and then one stud through the factory frame mount from the rubber mount just like stock.

[jpsnblood]

One other thing I'd do were it me: I'd place the plate on the engine block, then mount the motor mount to it, so there'd be less stress on the plate. Three bolts holding the plate to the block and then one stud through the factory frame mount from the rubber mount just like stock.

yeh I know, I guess maybe it is the hard way.
I saw a set of super short blockhuggers at the Daytona Turkey Rod Run. I should have bought them.
I found a trandapt part # 4840 that looks pretty good. If I cut off the frame horns and use a more forward mount I will be able to use my manifolds that I already have and have a few more choices when I go to headers.
Check out the Transdapt part for me. I haven't found the thread yet but I swear I think one of our members used it and it looked good.

http://www.tdperformance.com/product...set=7752&rsku=

thanks again for your input

[fng]

Hey, just to throw in my two cents here. I attached the spicer plate to the block first, then used an oem motor mount to the frame. That gave me some fractional clearance at the frame horns but I still need to relieve the DS horn with a cut off wheel to allow for the wrench to get to the manifold flange nut. I welded in a round piece of stock (split in two) that gave the horn back it's strength.
I just went out and looked and found a DS exhaust manifold that dumps between the 3rd and 4th cyls. If you need it, pm me and I can send a pic.
Also It's hard for me to remember but is that a "long" waterpump? I used a short one myself and it allowed me to use a standard fan/rad setup with about 1.5" clearance in between.
As for the firewall, man if you are careful and use a little finesse, it's possible to relieve the PS firewall about 3/4" to 1" so that it will never be noticed. When I did mine it was high enough inside the cab that it was not visible from either seat and looking down into the eng. bay, was hidden by the valve cover/heater hoses. "none-the-wiser"
Mine was "fairly easy but it took some massaging and the same exhaust manifold shopping you're doing now.