I think I have this picture thing figured out. We'll see. I took these last week of my t-case with the VPW conversion parts installed.
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I think I have this picture thing figured out. We'll see. I took these last week of my t-case with the VPW conversion parts installed.
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Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
OK that makes links. I try again to actually get the pictures in the post. Sorry for taking up peoples time. The third photo is taken from underneath the t-case looking back. I remember somebody asking about the driveshaft clearance to the fuel tank with a straight thru conversion. Mine is not a problem.
That didn't work either. Oh well a link is better than nothing. Maybe tomorrow.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
links worked for me, Ive got to get it for my truck if id ever get off my lazy butt and start workin on it.
67 M725, 67 M715, 68 M715
Barrman: you're still using the stock rear? On a 14bolt/M725 it's close
**I heart Bump_r **
Lee, that's a slick gas tank. I think I'm going to have my stocker cut and clearanced, that's too close for my liking....
**I heart Bump_r **
Barrman- I am curious about this straight through conversion. Does the parking brake work off the driveshaft(side)? Reading about it other places, I thought you moved the parking brake assembly over to the old drive output and swapped the shaft to the brake connection. Do you have anymore pictures or further info. or links?
1969 M715
Dan,
Swapping the brake to the lower output is a way to do it without buying any other parts. Just swap the upper flange for the lower yoke.
Tims way requires that you buy some new parts to convert the upper spot to use a U-joint as well as the brake.
Chris
Dan,
I got the parts from Vintage Power Wagons for a total of $175.00 with shipping. All of the parts are take offs from something else and are therefore used but good quality. I call anything meant to hold a u-joint a yoke hopefully this won't confuse anybody. I did not get a picture of the parts before I put them on. I also do not have a digital camera, so pictures of the parts I took off are a few weeks away, that is once I remember to go out there, find the old parts, take pictures, and get the film processesed. The box included the following:
Slip Yoke for t-case end of rear axle drive shaft with u-joint- my old one was very stubborn coming off.
Output yoke for the straight thru position on the t-case.
U-joint clamps for the new output yoke.
Bolts to hold the u-joint clamps to the new output yoke.
That is it. I opened the smaller than expected box and saw only that. My first thought was, I spent $175.00 for this. However, the parts made my 200 straight drive and quiet. That is what I wanted.
My goal was to make my stock t-case quiet, mechanically stronger(maybe not the right word, but by eliminating the extra gears being used in 2wd, I have less slop in the drive train and hopefully more longevity from some of the parts), keep the stock e-brake and reduce the t-case heat.
I have done all of that except for the heat. My case still gets up into the 200 degree plus area when driven at high speed, 50mph, for more than 20 minutes or so. I have not driven it at 60 mph for hours like some of the other members, so I don't know how hot it will really get. Now that it is gettting hot out, I will be able to tell how high the t-case heat will really go. I will post results once we have a normall 100 degree summer day and I take a long drive for sake of science.
The conversion is very simple. It involves taking off the big nut holding the brake to the t-case.
Unbolting the brake drum from the flange the big nut held onto the t-case.
Bolt the brake drum to the yoke in the kit. You have to reverse the bolts, stock=nut and threads on rear of truck side, new = bolt head on rear of truck side.
Slide the new yoke onto the t-case.
Tighten up the big nut and put the split pin back in.
Unbolt the rear axle drive shaft from the stock t-case location.
remove the slip yoke from the drive shaft.
Install the new longer slip yoke on the drive shaft.
put the drive shaft in the new output yoke on the t-case.
Make sure everything is tight and go drive without ear plugs.
Let me know if you need any help.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
Thanks! Looks pretty straight forward. I think I will order the VPW parts soon.-Dan
1969 M715
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