Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by brute4c on May 26, 2006, 9:14am
Hopefully it will get better...but you are gonna have to throw a bunch of time and that green stuff at it first...
With your skills though, it should be awesome on day...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by brute4c on May 26, 2006, 9:14am
Hopefully it will get better...but you are gonna have to throw a bunch of time and that green stuff at it first...
With your skills though, it should be awesome on day...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by bluesman2a on May 26, 2006, 11:37am
Quote:
With your skills though, it should be awesome on day...
Thanks for the kind words John, but the days are already in the 3 digits and the green stuff has a much higher number to the left of the comma than I'm liking...
Guess I just need to suck it up and get some more work done this weekend!!!
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by bluesman2a on May 29, 2006, 11:29pm
Spent some time on the problem this weekend and decided to just abandon version 1.0 as hopeless/stupid.
Here's version 1.1 -- Took a bit of 1.75" tube, bent a 180 and then center drilled it for 3/4 stand-offs. The little pieces of 3/4 sleeve the bigger tube and ensure the entire assembly sits level. I've managed to get 2 out of the 4 correctly placed, one will need to be cut out and repositioned (moved while welding) and ran out of time to make the last one.
Once I have the main frame finished, I'll build some more bushing/tab outriggers like these to support it, and bent correctly to clear the driveshaft. The final step (after I get everything else running will be to skin the whole thing in 3/16 plate for protection.
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by brute4c on May 30, 2006, 8:55am
What made the first one hopeless?
Looks like youare going the right way with the 2nd one though..looks plenty stout too!
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by bluesman2a on May 30, 2006, 10:13am
Quote:
What made the first one hopeless?
The problem was with the front driveshaft and clearance on the yoke. I had to get far enough back to clear the D/S, or up over the top of the D/S while still leaving some room to run exhaust down that side. The passenger side of this thing is gonna be a TIGHT squeeze to get all this stuff in there...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by brute4c on May 30, 2006, 10:27am
I see...yeah, the passenger side does get crowded...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by 40grit on May 31, 2006, 4:46pm
Quote:
Does it EVER get any better?
sure, go buy another Jeep...it will be better until you start looking at the new one closer....
p.s. that's some really nice work...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by bluesman2a on Jun 7, 2006, 1:37am
Got some more work done this weekend and tonight. Just about there, have:
* welded all the tabs to the frame
* plasma/ground off all the old tabs from the frame
* added additional mount points to the body of the xmember
* mocked up and tacked the mount for the 205 and finalized installation for the 205.
* mocked up exhaust
* measured for shafts, rear is 48" on the nose, front is 34 7/8" so those will be ordered this week.
Still need to:
* make tranny lines
* install starter
* finish welding everything
* make one more mount for the 205 from the PTO cover to the xmember for support on that side as well.
* paint everything
* reinstall it all
I've also had a couple of questions about material... Normally I would use either all round or all square, but every piece of this thing is outta my scrap bin, so aside from the $30 I spent on bushings, it's pretty low budget. Had I to do it over again, there are some things I would certainly change...
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by teking on Jun 7, 2006, 7:54am
Quote:
well, I got back to it tonight, mounted the 205, played with clocking and determined that I can't get it up as high as I would like (no room for exhaust). Also started looking at the DS clearance down the passenger side and I've pretty much scrapped my original design for the passenger.
Essentially I'll have to do a like an "S" bend to get the mount up over the top of the front D/S.
SOOOO as in all things Jeep I started looking at stuff and decided it was time to replace the body mounts and go with a 1.5" B/L (one thing always leads to another, doesn't it?) for some better clearance.
SOOOO in trying to figure out how to get the body bolts off, I realized that the US Military has the best friggin design for stuff like this out of any Jeep I have EVER worked on, with those access holes inside the cab. BUT the P.O. had used (and I kid you not) tin and TAR to patch up some rust holes on both sides. One thing always leads to another, doesn't it?
SOOOOO now I've got a serious cancer issue to deal with in the floor-pans. I knew they were bad, but this is ridiculous!
Does it EVER get any better?
LOL NO!!!! I took my drivers fender off one day to knock some dents out and this is what I found (which then lead to a total restoration):
The white you see on the inside cab floor well wall is a piece of sheet aluminum that the PO had stuck up there with body caulk to cover the hole.
Re: Doubler X-Member
Post by bluesman2a on Jun 7, 2006, 9:07am
Quote:
LOL NO!!!! I took my drivers fender off one day to knock some dents out and this is what I found (which then lead to a total restoration)
Yeah, but I have to say, your sheetmetal work/restoration is most masterful, I always look forward to your posts. I learned a lot from how you did that repair for when I did my firewall patches.
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