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Thread: Valve spring compressor

  1. #1

    Default Valve spring compressor

    I just ordered a set os valve seals for my truck. I am trying to pick a valve spring compressor that works on the 230 with the head still on the block. I checked ebay and there is quite a few different styles. Just wanted to know what other guys used.
    Thanks,
    Ken

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    middlesex county ,CT
    Posts
    83

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    K&D tool at local napa makes to cheap types . So compressed in cylinder , the small up right one ok. also have the one that hooks on cam to use as a pivot point, its adjustable. just plug off oil return holes,timing chain area with rages and a magnet for the valve keepers. good luck

  3. #3

    Default

    Valve Spring Compressor at Autozone Loan-a-Tool part number OEM27040.

    Get your money back when your done!

    There is plenty of room with the rockers out of the way. Be sure to keep the pivot balls with its rocker.

  4. #4

    Default

    thanks, the autozone one worked ok?

  5. #5

    Default

    I have used it on Toyota and Isuzu engines. Catching the spring as low as possible will keep the feet from slipping.

    I removed the locknuts, rockers, rocker balls, camdeck, and cam last week, have not removed the springs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    A trick that works well too, for keeping the valves in place instead of relying on compressed air, is to feed a length of nylon rope into the cylinder and let it sort of coil up on top of the piston. Then rotate the engine around until it stops and do your valve seals. A bit more peace of mind in case something slips.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  7. #7

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    How much air does it take to keep the valves up? Should I take all rockers off at once or one at a time?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,652

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    If you use air, make sure the truck is in neutral. The engine will spin to BDC. I have never wanted to find out what psi is not enough to hold up a valve. I always hit it with all I have in the compressor. A rag wrapped around the stem with a vice grip barely on is a safe way of making sure it won't fall or just to turn off the annoying air leak past the rings.

    The rope trick is my favorite way of doing this. You don't have to hurry and if you have trouble, you can stop and come back in a few days without having to run the compressor the entire time. If you plan it out right, the rope trick also gets your piston at TDC of just before it. Which means you can go right to adjusting the valve lash on the cylinder you just worked on without spinning the motor, trying to figure out if you are at tdc of the compression or exhaust stroke. Start with number 1 and follow the firing order.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    I've never had a problem using air, meaning I've never dropped a valve, but I always wondered when the hose was going to break, or something weird might happen. I also noticed that if I didn't whack the retainer lightly before trying to compress the spring, when I would pull down with the lever type spring compressor and the keepers were still seated tightly in the retainers, that I could open a valve, even with 125 PSI of shop air in the cylinder.

    So, I use rope now for any valve seal replacement.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

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