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Thread: Tacoma/ driveshaft clearance

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    San Antonio,Texas
    Posts
    43

    Default

    yo T
    i've been thinkin about your driveshaft clearance problem. i think that is why people used to say to use the dana 60 from the dodge 350 van. most vans have the whole drivetrain mounted over to the right a couple of inches. measure your van and see if it is offset to the right. maybe it is only the dodges? i want to swap rears in my 725 also but i don't want to buy/build a custom tank.
    on a side note, i'm thinking about making another tool box for the driver side. what do you think about that?
    keith 8)
    67 M725 84 GW

  2. #2

    Default Tacoma/ driveshaft clearance

    I'm all for it. I'm just going to take the tank out, cut the corner, flip it and weld it back in. Lose about a gallon but gain the clearance. Or just angle the corner instead LOL. Luckily there are welder types around here that work cheap or free. I'm all for more toolbox/storage boxes. I'm trying to decide what to do w/the one on the pass side... good place for tools I guess LOL.

    The 14bolt is going to rock when they actually start shipping those ARB's.....
    **I heart Bump_r **

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Merriam, Kansas
    Posts
    47

    Default My tire my truck

    Since nobody asked me I'll throw in my two cents......I think I'll build a new tank for my 725 because of the drive shaft clearence (less than 1/8 inch). I plan to build from inside of one frame rail to the other frame rail (40 inches or so) by 12 inches deep (roughly even with the bottom of the frame rails) by 15 inches wide. That would be just a taste over 31 gallons. The filler neck will stay in the stock location. I had thought of notching the stock one and building a skid plate from 3/16 inch steel to protect it from a flying driveshaft.

    For the side compartment I'm thinking a slide out battery tray holding 2 batteries. Or a place to mount a heater/ac unit. The one I have is a 30,000 btu unit out of a scrapped box ambalance. I bought it off ebay for $1.00.

    I had thought of mounting this heater/ac unit up high near the surgeons light location or between the rear wheels but can't figure out how to purge the air from the line when the heater valve opens to avoid an air lock. Any ideas?? perhaps a solenoid valve?

  4. #4

    Default

    Any thoughts on how you're going to keep gas in the line w/ such a shallow tank?

    As far as the heater goes, check valves.
    **I heart Bump_r **

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    San Antonio,Texas
    Posts
    43

    Default

    T
    did you measure your van?
    k
    67 M725 84 GW

  6. #6

    Default

    nope, it's buried in a snowbank.
    **I heart Bump_r **

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Merriam, Kansas
    Posts
    47

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tacoma
    Any thoughts on how you're going to keep gas in the line w/ such a shallow tank?

    As far as the heater goes, check valves.
    On the gas tank I could make a sump like the drag racers do ....suck gas within 3/8" off the bottom of the tank though I would prefer to use a vacuum style pickup for safetys sake. Perhaps the bottom of the tank could be convex where the fuel pickup could be. Fuel injected gas tanks have a small well built into the tank that holds maybe 1/2 pint of gas to avoid sucking air in the fuel pickup. Just throwing out ideas... .

    Check valves.....like a one way valve....hey I like that idea!! What about a solenoid valve mounted low (under the floor) wouldn't the line from the floor to the roof stay between uses??

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