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Thread: Fuel tank

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default Fuel tank

    Well, the JB-Weld patch I used on the fuel tank has failed, so it's time to do a proper fix...

    The local radiator shop said about $70-$100 to fix the tank properly. Is it worth this to fix the tank?

    I dropped it today, and checked inside, and it's not as bad as I expected - other than the two leaky spots, it's pretty clean - very little rust and sludge, lots of shiny metal.

    It does, however, have a large problem area in the bottom that someone tried brazing, making much worse, a couple small pinholes, and a rust hole through the top.


    So, fix it, or look for a replacement tank?


    --Randy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Well, he first said $60, then said a bit higher when I mentioned someone had tried brazing it before, so I don't know what his exact estimate is...

    --Randy

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by randygar View Post
    Is it worth this to fix the tank?
    I don't know, how much do you like carrying gas?

    Have the tank hot dipped and lined. Or you can do it yourself at home - we have several members here who have talked about this in the past.
    My tank is still good but I had a buddy do this for me years ago with 2 Scout tanks - worked great.

    Ron

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Really, pretty much anything is a good price to fix your tank.

    Your options for the M715 are pretty limited: either find a good used tank, which is hard, repair what you have, or go with something entirely different and modify as necessary.

    Were it me, I'd clean it really well inside with something like phosphoric acid, then try to remove all of the previous repairs. Fix any damaged areas either by cutting them out and replacing them totally, or spot repair properly with something other than brass brazing. Lastly, coat the inside with a good ethanol resistant coating like Caswells.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  5. #5

    Default

    Sounds like it is repairable to me. And cheaper than a replacement tank.

    How is this guy going to repair it. New steel welded in, patches, or filler or something else?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Unfortunately, I'm not at home... currently about 3000 miles from it, in fact. So any work has to be paid for, given I have no tools except the fix-the-jeep-on-the-road set. (Which has enough tools to drop the tank, but not do any metalworking!)

    I'll see what the local radiator shop can do...

    --Randy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    I didn't know how hard used ones were to find... was hoping not to have to spend so much - this trip is ruining my budget!

    --Randy

  8. #8

    Default

    Just Empty Every Pocket.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Just to get home, you could add a boat tank to the inside of the bed and plumb it in to the line. Once back home, you could then fix your original or search out another better one.

    Somebody said that VPW had some NOS tanks several years ago. I'm sure they'd not be cheap though if they still do.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Well, to get home, I'd just give it another coat of jb-weld, seems to last about a month a coat.

    I took it to the radiator shop today, the guy said it was too bad on top for them to fix, and sent me to the local welding shop. The welding shop said it was too thin for them to weld (gesturing to their shop filled with heavy steel objects), and to take it back to the radiator shop, and talk to the guy that owns it. Talked to him, he agreed to take a crack at it, with an estimate of $80-$120 and two weeks until they have time to work on it. Left it there, told them to try to get busy on it... So, I guess I have two weeks of non-driving-requiring projects to work on!

    They're going to clean the tank, grind and wire brush the areas clean, and solder three large brass patches over the bad spots.

    If I do need to drive it, I'll just stick a random piece of fuel line down the jerry can convienently located right next to everything. At least the fuel pump isn't in the tank, so I don't have to set the jerry can on the roof like with other vehicles I've done that on.

    Also ordered a fuel sender, so I might finally get to have a gas gauge...

    --Randy

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