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Thread: Pushbutton master light switch on 12v?

  1. #1
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    Default Pushbutton master light switch on 12v?

    Anyone tried running one of the new electronic replacements for the 3-lever switch off 12v? Or anyone have one (doesn't have to be a M715, any m-series with the pushbutton switch will do) and would be willing to go disconnect one of their batteries, connect it to the first one for 12v, and try seeing if their lights still try to come on?

    They're only a bit more money than a new mechanical 3-lever switch, and should, in theory, be a lot more reliable...


    Thanks!
    --Randy

  2. #2

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    The pushbutton switch will work on 12v.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Is that documented, personal experience, rumor, guess? If you're at all sure, I'll pick one up - is shiny!

    --Randy

  4. #4
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    Default

    I can tell you that they don't last as long in 24V applications as the three lever mechanical switches. I've gone through two in two other vehicles, and there were no other problems in the electrical systems. One lasted a year, the other about 3 months. The 3 levers I replaced them with are still working.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  5. #5
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    Hrmm, I've been told the 3-lever switches were unreliable, and that's why they switched to the electronic ones...

  6. #6

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    documented from a zoner experience.

  7. #7
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    Some googling finds "There were reports that early production of the pushbutton switch had problems and those units were not reliable. Get a guarantee from any vendor that you will receive a unit from newer production. By 2005 those problems seemed to be solved."

    How much do you want to bet the $80 ones are from this lot? heh

    --Randy

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Stick with the mechanical 3 lever. Normally, when they fail it is one circuit or function at a time. Usually, the brake lights first or the b/o spot light. I have tested dozens of used rejects and that is what I have found to be the most common problem. In other words, they will still get you home at night.

    The push buttons can't handle power surges of any kind. Such as starting a vehicle with any part of them on. They will work on 12V, I have done it. I don't trust them, so I run the mechanical lever switches in all my MV's.

    Also, it is very easy in the dark to "know" where the mechanical is set at by feel. The push button, you have to have an external light and look at it. The mechanical can also live for years with the brake system on, dash lights off and not drain the batteries. The push button has to be turned off each and every time you leave it for more than 15 minutes or your batteries will die. That also means you have to turn it back on before you drive or you will have no brake lights. Something you don't have to think about with the mechanical.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  9. #9
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    All the functions of mine work with sufficient wiggling of the levers, but the circuit breaker has fried itself... only way to get power on for more than a few seconds is feeding it into the switch through one of the outputs, which is how I have it rigged up now. If I were to guess, the contacts are bad, and it overheats with even the slightest current through it.

    Hrmm, sounds like sticking with the mechanical ones might be a good idea... And the new ones were supposed to be the more reliable, easier to use upgrade!

    I guess I'll pull mine out and try taking it apart - can't be too hard to rebuild one...

    --Randy

  10. #10
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    There were at least 4 different versions of the mechanical switch made since they were introduced in 1948 or so. The second, third and fourth versions had the single plug now in use on the rear, so that is an easy one to figure out.

    Flat screws holding the levers down is found on the 2nd and 3rd versions. All metal construction with the oldest of these being almost easy to pull apart. The manuals from the 1950's actually walk you through taking them apart.

    Phillips screws on the handles and you have the 4th version. Not so easy to pull apart, plastic used a lot. Just about every surplus place in the world has "new" switches and e-bay has used and new constantly. $30-$50 is what you will see for prices.

    Oh, the only reason I have ever heard of making the change to the push button was that a Congress critter had a big donor needing work for his factory in his district. Presto chango, the military needs a more "modern" light switch.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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