Axle swap in "The Big Cheese"

[randyscycle]

Alright, back on track with parts and now have some progress along with pics to report.

Front Dana 60 regeared with the proper carrier and the new 5.13's. Nice pattern and all specs fell in where they should:



And all buttoned up with a coat of black paint:



Rear 14 bolt set up with a great pattern and new goodies. Also note the Detroit Locker:



Fully assembled with black paint and disc conversion:



Steering arm and spacer on Dana 60:



And the final assemblies on a set of rolling tires awaiting assembly:



Next weekend will see the front differential install begin and then the rear as time allows.

[ryanroo]

the axles look nice randy. i have to ask why the spacer and the steering arm? i assume it is to clear the springover? the set up is not really ideal as it places alot of twisting load on the long studs in a way that they were not really designed to be used.

looking forward to more progress
Ryan

[dahoyle]

the axles look nice randy. i have to ask why the spacer and the steering arm? i assume it is to clear the springover? the set up is not really ideal as it places alot of twisting load on the long studs in a way that they were not really designed to be used.

looking forward to more progress
Ryan

I don't think the spacers are much of an issue. It certainly isn't ideal, and I would be inclined to weld the spacer to the arm, but you have to remember, that the Chevy versions used that ridiculous bent riser arm on the passenger side, stock. I'm not sure how that compares, in forces acting on the arm, but it certainly wasn't how I would have done it. That said, I have never seen a problem, even on D44's which only had 3 bolts attaching the arm. As long as things are clamped tight, so there is no movement, It should be ok. That is why I would consider welding the arm to the block, so the cone washers would effectively locate the spacer as well as the arm.

[randyscycle]

The 1-1/2" spacer is there for the crossover link when I do the springover, for clearance. I thought about a dropped pitman arm, but the link was just too close to the spring where it crossed over on the passenger side, without raising the steering arm slightly. I can't really see much other way to accomplish this and keep the angle good enough to eliminate any bump-steer.

The studs are the ones provided with the spacer and have self-locking nuts. They were torqued to the specification sent along in the kit. Seems this setup is used pretty frequently with no problems, so I don't see any real issue with any twisting load, so long as the nuts stay tight.

In the stock form, as Dahoyle mentioned, there was most likely as much load on the originals, maybe more, with that very short steering arm. Same diameter studs, just slightly shorter.

[ryanroo]

with the stock arm, there is only one surface to surface mating surface and the effective length of the studs is only a half inch or so from the bottom of the cone to the top of the knuckle. that is alot less fastener to stretch. it also sees alot less abuse from the bumps in the road in stock form since the steering is a push pull design and doesn't see the same effects from the truck hitting bumps

i am not saying that it will be an issue, but i think i would go about it in a different way. also in the picture it looks at as though the nuts on the studs are not a tapered nut. if that is the case then the clamping force is all that holds the arm from twisting.

i am running the same basic set up with my truck without the spacer.and have no issue with the drag link hitting the spring and mine is alot more flexy up front than stock springs will be.

here is a picture of mine as it is today

this is the arm


the arm to spring relation





that is with the PS box and a stock waggy pitman it is also completley drooped there on the lift, but even on the ramp it never hits the spring

Ryan

[randyscycle]

Ryan, what kind of angle does the cross over link have when the suspension is fully loaded? My main reason for doing it this way is to keep the crossover link parallel to the steering link so as to avoid any bumpsteer, or funky road manners. According to everything I've measured, even with a drop pitman arm, I may not be able to keep it parallell once the springover is complete.

I see your point with the longer studs, but as long as they are clamped properly, I don't see any potential for movement.

[ryanroo]

this is as it sits on its weight. with stock springs and a spring over you will likely have a steeper angle.

as this is now i have no real bumpsteer from the linkage. i do get some oddness from the tires and the grooves in the road, but not from the steering. it also handles pretty darn good for what it is at speed



i hope there is no problem with the arm, and maybe i am wrong, i just like to be extra sure with steering and brakes. anyway, lets see some more build...

ryan

[randyscycle]

i just like to be extra sure with steering and brakes. anyway, lets see some more build...

ryan

I'm with you on that, and I wouldn't assemble anything that I wouldn't drive down the road myself.

More pics should be coming first of next week.

[CrashMorriss]

Hows the project coming? Pic's drool drool,

[randyscycle]

Its moving along. The front axle is in, and I am trying to get the rear done in the next few days. Still need to hook up the steering and brakes yet.

Work's been busy, so truck time has been limited this month.

Pics to come shortly............