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Thread: Dual Master In!

  1. #1

    Default Dual Master In!

    Finally, last week I put in the dual master and today bled the brakes. I was putting this off because of having no help but decided to ask the wife to pump the pedal. Was finished in less then an hour. Those rear bleeders are very hard to get at!

    It seems to me I have a bit more stopping power now. Is this to be expected or am I just imagining it? I also think I now have to work on my right front drum as it is pulling during braking and it did not do that before the master swap. New wheel cylinders during the rebuild but we did not index the drums so it may be off.
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Giddings, Texas
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    Default

    I would suggest making sure the left front shoes are adjusted out far enough.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default Right Side

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    I would suggest making sure the left front shoes are adjusted out far enough.
    It's pulling to the right. Where is the info you once posted about checking drum run out? Can't seem to find it.
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I don't think I ever posted any run out numbers. It was more a matter of less versus more depending on the position of the drum on the hub.

    I mentioned left front because if your truck is pulling to the right, the left probably isn't working or not working enough. Assuming you have the right adjusted so it spins with minimal resistance that is.

    If you pick up the front, spin the front tires and have somebody slowly and gently push the pedal, the right will probably stop spinning before the drivers side. The cause of that could be more clearance on the drivers side between the shoes and drum, no pressure getting to the drivers side, only one piston working on the drivers side, brake hose stretching because it is all messed up inside, etc...

    The manual tells that the shoes should be adjusted until the tire can not be turned at all and then backed off until "slight resistance" is felt. I just adjust until I find the fine line between "slight" resistance and drag. Then I push the pedal a few times to center everything up since the adjusting spoon is going to move the shoes around. Try the tire I was working on and adjust for that fine line between drag and "slight", repeat until that one is how I want it and do the other 3.

    Take it for a drive, the pedal should be nice and high with very little travel. If it pulls one direction, you can either back that one off or tighten the other side. Make a speed run, well go without hitting the brakes for a few miles, coast to a stop and check temperatures of the drums. If one is way hotter than another, back it off some. "warm" is defined in the manual as being able to hold your hand on it for more than 10-15 seconds without pain. "Hot" is something you can't keep your hand on. Or, just buy an infrared thermometer and get factual numbers. All the drums should be about the same. If one is way off, tighten or loosen to make it match the others.

    My rears like to be looser than my fronts for some reason. They squel if tighten as tight as the front shoes. Yours might have a quirk as well.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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