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Thread: NP 200 Straight Thru Conversion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

    Default

    This is meant as an information post to those thinking about this. I just finished putting on the parts from VPW that allow the use of the parking brake yoke to drive the vehicle. The complete process was basically remove parts, clean them and then put different ones back on. Without my students watching and moving my tools and parts around and my trying to explain what and why about everything under or in the M715, I should have taken no more than 30 minutes. The only problem that I encountered was the bolts that connnect the yoke to the drum. Mine came through from the back of the drum with the nuts on the driveshaft side. I tried putting them back on that way. The u-joint clamp bolts will not go in that way. I took the yoke back off and reversed the bolts so that the nuts were on the t-case side. My students were very glad that I had to take something apart and redo it. I used the nuts from the original u-joint u-bolts to secure the new u-joint clamp bolts. One other note, the castle nut on the brake yoke is a 1-5/16". I haven't driven it yet and will probably do a follow up post tonight about that.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

    Default

    Follow up,
    It works as advertised and I can now hear everything else making noise. I really need to adjust my rockers, they are now the loadest noise. Before, I only heard them at fast idle.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default Local Hotels & Motels

    Is it too early to tell about how hot it gets?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

    Default

    I have a dgital multi-meter with a celsius temp probe. Before the switch, I was getting 42-45 C after running 60mph for 5-10 minutes. I did the swap and changed the gear oil to 90w-130 yesterday. My temp when I got home was 41 C. I am going to pull a 2000 pound trailer with 3 round hay bales each about 1,500 pounds next week. That will be a twenty mile as fast as I can run 6,500 pound pull. I'll post my temps then. I also plan on doing a 60 mile highspeed run to a friends house a few weekends from no. That will let me know if I can keep this case, rebuild it or keep looking for a 205.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

    Default

    What was the total cost for the switch over?
    Mine just keeps getting taken further apart.

    Maybe it\'s all the beer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

    Default

    I paid Vintage Power Wagon $175.00 including shipping for the parts, which are used take offs. I am going to move hay with it tonight. I will post my temperature readings tonight or tomorrow. I know that the price is about the same as many of you can find a divorced NP205 for. I have been unable to find one dispite months of looking for less than $300.00 with shipping. If my 200 works okay, I also don't have to build new mounts and shift linkage. Of course if it doesn't, I will have an extra $175.00 in a part I can't use. The joy of old vehicles.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

    Default

    I ran 21 miles in 24 minutes. Outside temp was 63 degrees. I had a 2,000 pound trailer hooked up. Up and down hills. I stopped, crawled underneath and put the probe next to the drain plug, next to the brake and at the top. All temperatures were between 74-78 degrees Celsius. That is about 180 F. I don't know if that is good or not. Nothing smelled bad and I had no noise from the t-case. Can anybody tell me if 180 degree at the case is good or bad? Thanks
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

    Default GM Alternator

    I know this from having a gauge on my tcase filled with Eaton synthetic lube:
    at 240 degrees the lube loses its ability to carry away heat and rapidly increases in temp unless the vehicle is stopped...though this heats it up for a period of time since it loses ram air and motion.
    Running between 50 and 60 MPH for an hour or more on the highway on a hot day will heat my tcase to these temps. Running at the 50 mph point, and letting the truck slow down on hills will pretty much keep mine at 230 or below. Anything more than that will overheat the fluid and the temps will "runaway"...when this happened on the highway, the temp went from 240 to 280 in about 1/4 mile and when shut off soon thereafter, the temp exceeded the gauges 320 limit for quite some time before it dropped down.
    My tcase had the gauge installed at the time when I moved the rear driveshaft to the straight through onfig but since I didnt know about the VPW kit at the time, I just ditched the ebrake altogether...so I have less parts there than you...
    I do not have any numbers from before I moved the shaft to through drive.
    brute4c
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  9. #9

    Default Rebuilding the NP200

    Brutes responce has left me with two questions: Where's the best place to install a temp gauge sensor and will bigger tires and a higher gear ratio...I'll be running 4.56... mitigate the overheating any or will it just mean that where Brute overheats at 60mph- I'll overheat at 70?

    I know where a couple divorced 205 are sitting within a resonable drive for me...one even had a pto attached-but I'll bet it's gone by now. I was hoping to figure out how to use a divorced 203 range box then attach a 205- rumor has it that Ford- around '75 used a divorced 203 so if I'm gonna change out the t-case before I put the cab back on..... my as well go all out... just got to figure out if I can build the puzzle first.
    Mine just keeps getting taken further apart.

    Maybe it\'s all the beer.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

    Default

    For the tcase sending unit, get your sending unit and get a bushing that will screw into the tcase drain hole and let your sending unit screw directly ino that. Sticks down about 1 inch total, not bad. mine is a 1/8th thread and Mozarkid, thanks man, got me the bushing rom a hardware store near him...you might need to order it but its out there.
    For the record, several people have driven these tcases at 60 and up mph for hours and have not had overheating problems...some like me do have this problem...many theorys abound as to why.
    brute4c
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

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