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Thread: Rusty nuts

  1. #1

    Default Rusty nuts

    "Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
    Penetrating oil ..... Average torque
    None ................ 516 pounds
    WD-40 ............... 238 pounds
    PB Blaster .......... 214 pounds
    Liquid Wrench ....... 127 pounds
    Kano Kroil .......... 106 pounds
    ATF-Acetone mix ..... 53 pounds
    The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
    Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
    Your experience may vary."
    Mineral Estate Grantee

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Now, does it work if I use used ATF, as that's a lot cheaper, and anything involving the jeep needs about 20 gallons... :P

    --Randy

  3. #3

    Default

    Wow. I would have expected PB Blaster to do better based on its reputation.

    Did the study show how well each penetrant penetrated, of how they applied it? I might have to mix up some ATF and acetone and try this.

    Zach

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    Get you one of those HF fill it your self spray cans like Chris uses and you are good to go. Thanks for posting this.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Saginaw Michigan
    Posts
    425

    Default

    Also did it say how long they let it sit before attempting to remove them?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Very interesting.

    I've pretty much always used PB or Kroil with pretty good results. Not surprised at the WD-40. I don't think I've ever seen it work very well as a penetrant. Great for water-displacement though.

    I am going to give the ATF-Acetone a whirl next time I need to get something rusty apart.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Alexandria KY
    Posts
    482

    Default

    Soak some rusty parts in a Coca-Cola and see what happens....
    '67 M715 '42 GPW '45 MB

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default

    Hit any rusty nut or bolt with some heat from a torch and it'll break easier than any spray oil or concoction of fluids...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NorthEast Texas
    Posts
    261

    Default

    G.M. heat valve lube is the best I have ever used. Nothing better on rusted exhaust studs.

  10. #10

    Default

    http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/stylespilotshop_2054_341757783

    Best kept secret in aviation. Literally drops is all that is needed. Oil on bolts placed in ziplock bags - oil will make it out of the bag. Just gotta give it time on severely rusted parts. If I have only one shot on a irreplaceable part, I use a hypodermic needle and place three drops every 12 hours for 3 days.

    Shame it wasn't tested. Mouse Milk is MFG by Worldwide Filter Inc.

    Justin

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