Etching Primer

[k8icu]

Ok what is a good etching primer to use on freshly media blasted metal? Name brand and doe you have to mix parts too please.

[Warhammer]

The politically correct answer to your question is to follow the recommendations of the paint company whose products you are going to use. Some call for epoxy and some call for etch primer first. So you will need to follow the P sheets for the paint line you choose.

The longer answer is.... generally etch primers are used by body shops and have been developed for them because they are faster curing to allow the following primers to be applied sooner than would be possible for epoxy. But etch can not be used over OR under any body fillers. Epoxy primers can be used under or over body fillers. Some guys like using epoxy first.... then doing the body work.....and then a topcoat once the bondo work is done. The thought being the body work is encapsulated by the epoxy and thus protected.

It is possible for the solvents from subsequent coats to work their way down to and cause some 'spot-pin hole' lifting of the etch primers causing them to fail down the road. Normally not a problem for collision work as people rarely keep the car years and years like is often done on restorations. Many restoration shops will only use an epoxy primer as the first coat to eliminate such possible failures.

Regardless of which you select- normally a 2K primer surfacer follows the bare metal primer and if the entire vehicle is being primed with a quality 2k primer-the need for a sealer is often eliminated. Again check your P sheets.

You should check around in your area and see what brands of paint are available to you. I use PPG's Omni line. I have been very happy with it's performance and it's price.

[k8icu]

Top Coat will be Gillispie "CARC Green". I know that rapco recomends their primer, but it is not good enough IMHO to use as the bare metal primer. So your suggesting I just use a good epoxy primer?

[Warhammer]

yes.... a good epoxy primer is what I'd use

[rboltz]

I use PPG's Omni line. I have been very happy with it's performance and it's price.

That's what I used and not being a body work expert, I was pleased with it. It was easy to mix and apply and for a first time painter, not a run on the whole truck.

I media blasted, primed, then did the filler over the primer, then re-primed the whole truck.

[SAC715]

Just be aware that all epoxy primers are not ment for bare steel. Be sure you use a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy. Also if you want good corrosion resistance with the epoxy I know Dupont sells a Epoxy 2580 CR (i think that is the right number), the CR stands for chromate (good for the truck not so good for you). Dupont epoxy primers need to be sanded if they sit for to long. Just check the tech sheet. PPG sells DP90LF and it says it is non sanding. The nice thing about the Duponts I have sprayed are that they dry to a semi-gloss. This lets you look at your bodywork before you sand and paint, plus it sheds off water so can wash it off easy if it sits in the shop to long and collects dust

[rboltz]

Just be aware that all epoxy primers are not ment for bare steel. Be sure you use a DTM (direct to metal) epoxy. Also if you want good corrosion resistance with the epoxy I know Dupont sells a Epoxy 2580 CR (i think that is the right number), the CR stands for chromate (good for the truck not so good for you). Dupont epoxy primers need to be sanded if they sit for to long. Just check the tech sheet. PPG sells DP90LF and it says it is non sanding. The nice thing about the Duponts I have sprayed are that they dry to a semi-gloss. This lets you look at your bodywork before you sand and paint, plus it sheds off water so can wash it off easy if it sits in the shop to long and collects dust

Yes, most epoxy primers will need scuffed and re-applied if over 72 hours. This cost me extra work when I could not complete a task in time.

[SAC715]

Yes, I try to first prime the areas that need filler and ignore the rest until the body work is finished, then prime the whole panel.