Clutch linkage fix

[Jay Dog]

As my story told, I lost my clutch at the same time my brakes went out. Just thought I'd post some pics of how I fixed that too. I guess I could have started another post but this is no big deal and is within 5" of the brake line junction... One more thing to check out while you are down below inspecting / replacing parts. I ran a search for the Napa # below and nothing came up, hope it helps.

The factory rod uses a thread on ball joint at one end and a crimped on joint at the other end meaning that only one end is easily replaceable. The inside joint on my truck was the crimped one and the outer was the one that gave way due no doubt to road related corrosion. If your pedal mounted joint is o.k. then you could probably get away with just replacing the thread on linkage end if its got slop. In the pics below you can see the joint that gave way along with my temporary zip-ty repair ( It don't work too good) and the new rod I machined up with the new ends. If I remember right, I used 15" of 1/2" round stock, machined 3/8 fine down 1 1/2" both sides. It went right together. Napa sells these Heim Joints which look be a replacement (thread wise) for the factory rod too. Balkamp part # 732-1133 to the tune of $14 a piece. Nice thing about these joints is they have the 3/8 stud (factory size) instead of an eye for a through bolt. Dont forget the jamnuts and washers as they dont come with the joint.

As always, thanks for keeping this site going guys, See ya, Jay

[jack/ny]

I did the samething when my ball joint let go on the bottom of
clutch rod. My zip-ty worked great, kept it on until my new ball joint
came in.

When I put the 350 in, there was too much strain on the clutch linkage,
at the z-bar? It had to break when I was plowing my driveway. truck
stuck in gear down hill. I backed off the ball-joint fitting,and drilled
a 3/8s hole through it. Ran a bolt through with double nuts. Worked great
still on the truck, I did order a new ball-joint from NAPA, seems much
stronger than the stock one.

I do need to change the angle of the fittings that are on the z-bar,
the clutch is really hard to push in. What would be the best way to
correct the tention on the linkage?

Jack

[brute4c]

I have heard of people cutting through the outer tube, rotating it, and welding it back together....

[jack/ny]

If I were to keep the upper arm
in the same position, say 11 oclock. (I"m at work, not near the truck)
Would I move the lower arm (one that the rod from the clutch fork goes to)
say 6 oclock? Ideas anyone.

thanks Jack