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Thread: Ignitor Shaft

  1. #1

    Default Ignitor Shaft

    While the snow is flying, I decided to rebuild the ignitor that came in the "parts box" with my truck. The truck now has a civilian distributor but I may put the ignitor in this spring to eliminate the 12 volt coil vs 24 volt system components. After I stripped and cleaned it, painted it and put in new points, cap, rotor, and coil, I discovered the lower roll pin on the shaft was sheared. Turns out the shaft is bent and this must have sheared the pin. Probably dropped. So, need a shaft assembly, to and including the coupling, and I guess I will have fun aligning it back to the proper orientation (+/- 180 degrees). I'll post a request in the wanted section unless someone has a source. Those parts are not even listed in the '34P so I assume you replaced the ignitor if you needed repairs.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    I have seen that portion of the unit on Ebay in the past...might have been AB Linn who ha them on there...would check him first.

    as far as aligning it, I went through this with a member a while back...we figured out how to get it right...as one end of the screwdriver tip is narrower than the other, we used reference points off the unit to get the top part in a fixed place and then line the bottom up as it is on a known good unit.
    Glad to help you do the same.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, Washington
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Is any supplier doing a total ignitor rebuild and if no, then who has the rebuild parts for same?

  4. #4

    Default Brings Up a Question

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    as far as aligning it, I went through this with a member a while back...we figured out how to get it right...as one end of the screwdriver tip is narrower than the other, we used reference points off the unit to get the top part in a fixed place and then line the bottom up as it is on a known good unit.
    I have peered under the hood of quite a few 'stock 715s. I even have a few pictures of the engines. I noticed some time ago that the #1 plug wire is not always at the same place. I have pictures to prove this. If we assume for this discussion the ignitor cap wires are at the 1,3,5,7,9,11 o'clock positions on the ignitor, most #1 cylinder wires are at the 1 o'clock position with #5 being at the 11 o'clock position. But, I have pictures showing the #1 cylinder wire at the 9 o'clock and one at the 3 o'clock position. This must be because someone altered the shaft or, I can't believe this, there was no standard way to assemble the ignitor. Pictures can be posted if anyone wants to see this.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    I have seen that before...it as come up several times when people have a distributor out and need to know how to get it in right and find #1...but that doesnt change what you want to do. If common points of reference are used on the body of the unit and the upper part of the shaft is aligned to those, then the bottom part can only be pinned on 1 of 2 ways...and with one end of the bottom tip being wider than the other, the wrong way is eliminated.

    When you put it in your motor, then you will find ou where your #1 plug wire goes versus anothers.

  6. #6

    Default I agree

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    I have seen that before...it as come up several times when people have a distributor out and need to know how to get it in right and find #1...but that doesnt change what you want to do. If common points of reference are used on the body of the unit and the upper part of the shaft is aligned to those, then the bottom part can only be pinned on 1 of 2 ways...and with one end of the bottom tip being wider than the other, the wrong way is eliminated.

    When you put it in your motor, then you will find ou where your #1 plug wire goes versus anothers.
    I agree. Must be some just got it assembled differently so the #1 falls where it may. Most are at the same location but those that aren't were probably altered.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Huntingtown,Md.
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Only way I see that happening is IF the oil pump is off. ?????? And on a dist note, has anyone installed the 'Electronic' Ign in their trucks and gotten the time right? Mine will not go 'Back' to 5 deg BTD, it sits around 7-8 degs.

  8. #8

    Default Oil Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by airborne View Post
    Only way I see that happening is IF the oil pump is off. ?????? And on a dist note, has anyone installed the 'Electronic' Ign in their trucks and gotten the time right? Mine will not go 'Back' to 5 deg BTD, it sits around 7-8 degs.
    Thats what I meant by my comment about "someone getting something assembled differently". Oil pump or the ignitor shaft. I assume if the oil pump is not replaced exactly, you must now find and move the #1 position on the ignitor. I wonder how far off you can get with the oil pump gearing?

  9. #9

    Default

    I've finished assembling a frankenstein ignitor from two partial units. I've had the 2-pc shaft apart in the middle and now can't remember how the bottom peg on the shaft is supposed to be positioned in relation to the rotor. Does anybody know?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palestine TEXAS
    Posts
    1,120

    Default

    From the -34 manual in the Online Maintenance Manuals section above:

    I cant get the page numbers, but here is the text.
    Open the manual in Adobe, and do a search for "Ignitor shaft"

    (d) Mount a dial indicator on oil pump to check for end-play. (Fig 3-43) Move pump shaft to its extremes and check for total end-play. If end-play exceeds
    0.005-inch, replace pump. Inspect oil pump driven gear on oil pump drive shaft. Correct positioning of the gear on the drive shaft is important. The outside end
    of gear hub should be 7-1/32-inch from mounting face of the oil pump. In this position, the centerline of the face of the gear teeth will coincide with bottom of
    ignitor shaft slot in end of the oil pump shaft. Check position of the gear with respect to slot in end of shaft. Correctly positioned, the centerline of the spaces
    between gear teeth should be perpendicular to centerline of the slot. If gear is in any other position, slippage of the gear on the shaft has occurred. Do not
    replace the gear only. If gear requires replacing, replace gear and shaft as an assembly."

    "Install Oil Pump.
    (1) The oil pump is driven by means of a helical gear mounted on front of crankshaft. The ignitor in turn, is driven by the oil pump by means of a tongue on
    end of ignitor shaft which engages a slot in end of the oil pump shaft. Because the tongue and the slot are both machined off center, the two shafts can be
    meshed in only one position. Since the position of ignitor shaft determines the timing of the engine and is controlled by the oil pump shaft, the position of the
    oil pump shaft must be correct with respect to the crankshaft."

    "(6) Remove screwdriver and, look down ignitor shaft hole with a flashlight, observe position of slot in end of oil pump shaft to make certain it is properly
    positioned."

    "2) Rotate ignitor shaft until tongue, at end of shaft, engages groove in end of oil pump shaft."

    I hope this helps.
    I dont have this ignitor, so I'm not familiar with it.

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