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Thread: Need help: distributor and cylinder #1. See picture.

  1. #1

    Default Need help: distributor and cylinder #1. See picture.

    I had a perfectly running 715 until I decided to replace the plug wires and forgot which wire went to which plug. Long story short, I've got the engine at either top dead center or bottom dead center (the zero degree timing mark is at 12 o'clock) and took the following picture:
    http://picasaweb.google.com/marianca...71465055068258
    also here, if the first address is too long:
    http://tinyurl.com/6ghdjo

    Does the picture look like the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1? Or am I 180 degrees off and it's pointing to cylinder #6?

    I just tried to start it and got an enormous backfire that sounded like a rifle, so I'm stopping for the night.

    Many thanks for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    THE way to do this is to pull the #1 spark plug, put your finger on that hole and have someone crank the motor until you feel compression pressure blow your finger off...Stop and look at the timing mark...line it up with the 0 timing mark.

    Once you have it there, take off the distributor cap. The rotor in the distributor will be pointing to where the #1 cylinders spark plug wire should be on the cap.

    The rest of the wires go on in a counter clockwise direction in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.

    That should get you back where you started from.

  3. #3

    Default

    Unfortunately, it's just me - I've got a compression gauge, would that work?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    If you crank slow and watch closely till you get compression on the gauge, yeah, that can work. Once you do get compression, you can put a screwdriver in the hole and move the engine with the belts to get the piston up to the very top by watching the screwdriver move...

    Maybe someone has a different trick, but that should work!

  5. #5

    Default

    Problem solved, and thanks for the help. My picture was 180 degrees off - the rotor was pointing to cylinder #6. I used my compression gauge and since I was by myself, I just used my camera that has video capabilities to film it. I posted it on YouTube if you are curious. Cylinder #1 is where the half circle is shown on the civilian distributor.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eoLZbP1kkQ

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    You got it...boy that works well...the C. tester and the video...you can see every pulse and compare easily to the rotors rotation...NICE!

    So its running again?

  7. #7

    Default

    After 2+ years of sitting, she's up and running. Now to put the stock ignitor and Pertronix ignition. Thanks for the help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    No sweat...keep us informed on the Pertronix conversion!

    Mind if I inquire why you are going back to the mil ignition from the civvy unit...stock resto maybe?

  9. #9

    Default

    I'm going back to the stock distributor because that's the only way I can use the 24 volt Pertronix ignition. The mounting plate on the civilian distributor is different from the military version. As an added bonus, you get rid of the ballast resistor and coil hanging on the fire wall. I've done the Pertronix in one of my M-37's and love it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    Sounds great!Love to see pics and find out how much it helps!

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