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Thread: master brake cylinder question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default master brake cylinder question

    I know that I should just use the 10-1331 napa part numbered master cylinder that is suggested in annother thread, but I had used a corvette master cylinder on my Jeep CJ7 with four wheel disks and it worked great. The master cylinder (10-1331) is only a 1 inch bore cylinder. as far as I know the bigger the better since we have huge brakes right? The corvette master cylinder comes in either a power brake or a manual brake and the power master cylinder is 1-1/8 bore. The manual is 1 inch.

    What do you guys think about using the power brake cylinder but as a manual? I may add the booster later. A new power brake cylinder is actually cheaper than the rebuilt one. The numbers for the master cylinders are for a 1975 corvette and the power one is ss4739018 and the manual one is ts101371

  2. #2

    Default

    The bigger the bore, the harder the pedal will be to push down, if you are not using a booster.

    Zach

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    You don't need a huge M/C bore. I am using a stock master cylinder and booster from a '95 ZJ Jeep. I don't know the exact bore diameter, but it stops more than well enough.

    Remember, you are only actuating 4 small wheel cylinders, much smaller than a disc brake caliper piston.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    I have the big bore Corvette mc in my M715. I also haven't gotten around to adding the Hydroboost set up sitting on my shop floor. It stops great, but has high pedal effort.

    A year or so ago I drove another M715 that had the Wagner smaller bore mc installed on it. I commented to the owner that I liked the power brakes. He laughed and called me an idiot since he thought the truck had high pedal effort and knew it had no power boost of any kind. It is all a matter of what you want.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    I Purchased an old rusty master cylinder and slave cylinder on ebay several months ago so I could make a hydraulic clutch. I really did not know what it looked like because the picture was really blurry. It turned out to be a perfect match to the master brake cylinder that I already had. So, now I have near twins that are so stock looking that you would swear that the M715 originally came with a hydraulic clutch. I bought a master cylinder today that originally came on a 1975 C20 chevy . It is part number 101534 at advance auto and Napa. The 101331 was not in stock in three places I went. Advance auto is way cheaper by the way at half the price on almost all the master cylinders(I checked out dozens on line at both of their sites) I hate to change out my master cylinder but I will be hauling some extra heavy loads of wood and cant take the chance. I was thinking though that anyone that wants to go with a hydraulic clutch setup could use the original master brake cylinder as the master clutch cylinder since they will literally bolt on to the clutch side with only the large hole to drill in the center. that way you are upgrading the brakes but still using the original parts for the clutch system. I took some pics....


    This is the setup I have now and hate to screw up.


    The new MC


    a couple of pics of my Jeep CJ7 with home made four wheel discs and a 1975 corvette master cylinder with a 1984 firebird dual diaphram vacuum booster. The gauge is monitoring the rear wheel preasure in the line.



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