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Thread: shifters

  1. #1

    Default shifters

    I am looking at making my shifter for the transfer case and i was just looking for some ideas (i.e pictures) of what anyone else who has swapped trannies and left the t-case shifter or shifters in the stock location. any help will be appreciated
    Thanks
    ryan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    I don't have any pictures here Ryan. But, look at the NV4500. There are I think 3 bolts on the passenger side top edge. Cut some angle iron to bolt into those holes. Figure out if you need the angle to go up or down first. Spicer went down with his and made things work. I went up with mine and it works fine. Kind of depends on your engine mount and transmission level.

    Anyway, once the angle iron is mounted, hold the shifters all bolted together with the stock plate up to the angle iron. Either weld the plate to the angle iron or bolt it in. I bolted mine in and have to re tighten it about every 3,000 miles. Or 1 Colorodo trip. Your milage may vary. If you are twin sticking, you will probably need to modify the plate some anyway.

    Basically, this is one of those things that might take you 20 minutes once you get all the parts in place. I was really worried about it going into my swap. Once I actually looked at it though it was just measure, mark, drill, done.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default

    i dont have stock shifters, so i am making the entire thing. those cover bolts are going to be my starting point too. does yours wobble just being attached at the top like that? that is my main concern
    ryan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    I just had the tunnel off a few weeks ago to tighten them up. I will get pictures next time.

    Here is the stock set up bolted to a stock transmission:
    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=shifters_linkage

    Mine was modified by the fire department before I got it. I didn't use the plate at all on mine. Mine has a single bolt holding all 3 levers. No spacers in between either. I just drilled a hole in the angle iron bolted to the NV4500 and ran that bolt through it. So, if I tighten that bolt up good, nothing moves. I get degrees of looseness as I use it. There is a specificly annoying rattle that happens just before the nut is about to fall off. That is when I know it is time to pull the cover and tighten back up.

    I actually made slots in the angle iron that bolts to the NV4500. My "bolt" is located just about even with the NV4500 shift tower and has no way to get at it when on the truck. So, I just loosen the 3 NV4500 bolts, slide the thing away from the transmission, tighten the "bolt" and then slide the entire thing back toward the transmission.

    This was my "temporary" fix in April 2005 until I could make it better. Then I got a NP205 and figured I would make the levers better when I installed it. Then I got 2 Gasser M35s, then rebuilt one of them, then a M35A2, 3 trailers and a few other things.

    Now that I have explained it, I can answer your question. 1/8"x1" angle iron is what I used on the transmission. If I tighten the "bolt" up good, everything is solid and no give. As the bolt loosens, things start to slop. Also, the fire department reversed the linkage/pivot mounts on both of my shifters. They are next to each other like a twin stick application. However, Low rubs against the e-brake handle. So, putting it in low actually applies the brake a little. We ran around in Low a lot in BV this summer. That and the constant bouncing caused my tightened just before the trip "bolt" to be really loose but not all the way loose by the time that week was over.

    I will have to look because I don't remember. I know I have standard thread bolts in the NV4500 side of it. I can't remember if I used the stock bolts or drilled/tapped them out to 5/16".
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Here is what I wound up with on mine. Granted, this is a TH400 auto, but still you should get the idea.

    The bottom mount:



    The top mount:



    And the top mount installed:

    (don't laugh too hard at the welds)
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  6. #6

    Default

    i am impressed at how well that peice of round bar fits. looks like some time went into that. looks like a nice solid setup.

    i got a plan in my head this afternoon and got some progress made. i forgot my camera so i will have to get some pictures tomorrow and post them up. what i did sounds alot like what Barrman was describing. caught some cover bolts, and made a pivot. tomorrow i have to fab up the linkage and finish the lever and i should be set

    I won't laugh at welds. only offer advice when i think someone may need it. my welding looked like runny dog poo when i first started, and only after way more time spent with a stinger in my hands than i cared for, did it get better.
    Ryan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    That was about the only idea I could come up with, since the TH400 didn't really have any place to mount anything to.

    It took a bit of bending and re-bending, but it is pretty solid and works well.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    santa rosa, california
    Posts
    31

    Default

    madness

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