Wiring Questions, Stock Headlight Switch with Aftermarket Turn Signal Lever

[67M715]

First off, I owe someone a great, big, sloppy kiss for posting those GREAT wiring diagrams. It probably save me a TON of time trying to figure out the 52 connectors on the back of the headlight switch!

Here is some background: 67 M715, put a 454 and a TH400 in it. Everything else will remain pretty stock(ish). I have a new wiring harness (universal 18 circuit) which I won't use all of the circuits but it is nice they are there in case I need to steal a wire for something else like blackout lights.

Here is my question, I have the stock headlight switch and an aftermarket turn signal lever, it is a trucklite like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97890...QQcmdZViewItem

Since some of the headlight switch wires go to a distribution box that this truck never had, am I going to have a hard time making this work? Should I just put a stock setup in it?

If you need any more info, let me know. Thanks.

[67M715]

Here is the distribution box that I don't have:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/tp.gif

[heepey]

I have a distribution box that I cut out of my spare cab that I don't need since I'm rewiring from the doner 'burban. If interested you can have it for shipping cost.

[fisherman]

I have a solid state turn signal, I'm not sure which distribution box you are trying to show a picture of, it doesn't show up. The most knowledgable two for wiring are Kaiserjeeps and Amphi. Between the two I have the most incredible wiring I've seen in an M truck and it all works with new style led truck lite military lights, right down to the black outs. If you want you can have the solid state turn signal lever, it looks military.

[Binford]

Picture doesn't show up for me either. I second the Al-Amphi team for this kind of thing. Lucky for you, they're both relatively local!

[brute4c]

Pin A and Pin K on the 3 lever light switch are for the brake switch on the frame below the master...power comes out one and goes down to the frame switch...when the brake pedal is pushed, the switch closes and power goes back to the 3 lever switch where it then routes out of pin C to go to the Distribution box.

Pin J sends power to the distribution box to power it.

These are the only terminals on the 3 lever light switch that have anything to do with the distribution box...

Hooking Pin J's wire to your turn signal switch to give it power.
Not sure what to do on the stop light wire signal from Pin C...if you wire from Pin C to the brake lights, the brake lights would come on and go off with pedal movement BUT if, say, the right turn signal was on WHILE the brake light was on, that side wouldnt flash but it would be on solid due to the brake signal not being interuppted in the distribution box.

Hopefully Amphi will know better what to do...

What wires does your turn signal switch have on it?

[Binford]

There is a turn signal lever that's sort of an early version of the modern, solid-state one, from Mike's parts truck. I hooked it up to the box on my truck and it sort of worked. Hazards and either right or left worked. The other direction was weird, as I recall. Not sure if Mike needs it for his own truck though, but I have it in my garage.

[phoenix]

I have the exact same problem right now in my truck. I have all the headlight, tail light stuff figured out but the EZ wiring brand JUNK!!!!!!! crap I hate this wiring harness!!!!!! doesn't have any schematics with it to show what is actually going where. I have the 12 circuit one. anyway, I have a very similar turn signal lever also. I have the turn signals working the tail lights working the headlights working but the brake lights don't work. To me, they can't work according to how the directions with the turn signal switch show how to hook it up. It shows that you need to connect the power coming from the brake switch (power to lights when pedal is pressed) and run that to the turn signal light bulbs, AND the turn signal switch. This will allow the brake lights to work all right but it will also cause the turn signals to back feed since both are literally hooked together now so you will get BOTH turn signals flashing every time you flip the switch in either direction. I can't figure why someone would sell something that obviously can't work as made. Now, If I am correct and the people who made the turn signal switches were on crack or something, all that would be needed is a couple of diodes that could be used so there would be no back feeding between turn signals. Here is the diagram that I got with my turn signal switch. If you notice the dotted line that runs from the brake switch to the turn signal light bulbs. This is the wire that would need a diode before each bulb to make it work correctly. It is absolutely stupid to have to modify something like this, but I don't know what else to do. I can't imagine I am doing something wrong or missed something. If it were me who designed this switch I would have also put two diodes inside the switch so the little blinking light on the handle would have worked without going with a special type of flasher that has three prongs on it. I will be fixing this problem this weekend one way or annother. There is no contact information at all on my instructions or even a brand name.







I would like to see your wiring diagram to make sure that they are similar.

[phoenix]

The more I look at the drawing the more I think that they actually want you to REMOVE the original dotted line wire. since I didn't have it on there to begin with, I don't think that is the issue. The original wiring harness should not have had a wire running from those two places anyway since it should go from the brake switch up to the steering column and to the turn signal switch. The brake light power should be routed into the switch and allow the turn signal to take priority over the brake light when the pedal is depressed. Maybe the thing is just broken to begin with. The diode won't allow the turn signal switch to take priority over the brake light so That won't work either. Cheap China junk.

[phoenix]

I got my brake lights to work finally. I had two problems, one was a bad connection inside the turn signal switch from the factory and the other was an intermitant problem with the brake switch that I was using. It only worked some of the time.

67 M715: I should be able to answer all of your questions now. I know how to hook everything up but you have to decide what you want to work and when. I wired my lights up so that the black out markers and the park lights went on as one light.(or not use the black outs at all) that way I only had to run the wires in the kit that were available. If you want to do it this way you will only be using a few of the wires that go to the original head light switch.
F goes to the "headlight power" wire, this is power from the fuse block.
B goes to the "instrument panel light" for lighting up the gauges.brite and dim work also.
L goes to the "park lights" park lights in the front.
H goes to the "park lights" park lights in the rear.
M goes to the "dimmer power" wire goes to the dimmer switch on the floor.

You don't need any of the other ones since they are just to mainly shut off the turn signals and brake lights in the "stealth modes" when you have the black out lights on. You could wire it like original so that everything worked as before, but you would have to add a lot more wiring and you run the risk of not having your brakes or turn signals working when you are driving on the road if you put the three lever switch in the wrong position. I could help you figure that out as well if you wanted.
Any other questions, let me know.