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Thread: NP 205 brackets

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

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    Just wanted to give an update. Jester made new blueprints so that is what you see now. Thanks go out to Jester so everyone can actually read them!!!!

    The measurements are all correct so it should be no problem to duplicate these. I think Jester may have his in by now, but I am not sure. I have driven my truck about 6 miles or so since I had put my transfer case in and I have not had a problem with it. My tires are shot so I don't dare drive it until I have the new rims/tires done. I found out that my transfer case, although it came out of a GMC, was actually a Dodge T-case. so as far as I know, you could use a Chevy or a Dodge T-case for these brackets to work. The advantage of using a Chevy case is that the Yokes from the NP200 will fit on the chevy case so you don't need the conversion U-joints. They are a pain. The dodge case has arguably stronger shafts with 32 spline yokes. The year vehicles to look for are around 1972-1977 Chevy or Dodge.

  2. #22
    Jester Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by phoenix View Post
    Just wanted to give an update. Jester made new blueprints so that is what you see now. Thanks go out to Jester so everyone can actually read them!!!!

    The measurements are all correct so it should be no problem to duplicate these. I think Jester may have his in by now, but I am not sure. I have driven my truck about 6 miles or so since I had put my transfer case in and I have not had a problem with it. My tires are shot so I don't dare drive it until I have the new rims/tires done. I found out that my transfer case, although it came out of a GMC, was actually a Dodge T-case. so as far as I know, you could use a Chevy or a Dodge T-case for these brackets to work. The advantage of using a Chevy case is that the Yokes from the NP200 will fit on the chevy case so you don't need the conversion U-joints. They are a pain. The dodge case has arguably stronger shafts with 32 spline yokes. The year vehicles to look for are around 1972-1977 Chevy or Dodge.
    I do have my brackets. Waiting on seals and gaskets before I can do the install. The brackets are on the case just waiting to be put back in. Hopefully this week. Will update once I have it in.

  3. #23
    Jester Guest

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    The NP205 is in the frame rails. The exhaust is binding up on the one side so it will have to come out. Anyone ever run the 230 with open pipes

    Next comes hooking up the drivelines (look like they will fit) and figuring out how to shift it.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

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    I know you arent serious...I think...anyway, the 230 is "get a ticket loud" without a muffler...unless the officier is real into old green iron and even served in the era of the M715 and likes them!

    You can guess how I know...

  5. #25
    Jester Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    I know you arent serious...I think...anyway, the 230 is "get a ticket loud" without a muffler...unless the officier is real into old green iron and even served in the era of the M715 and likes them!

    You can guess how I know...
    Yup - was just joking. Play on throwing something together with flex pipe until I can afford to have the exhaust redone at a shop.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    I had to give up on running my exhaust pipes around the transfer case and just dump from the headers at a 45 angle tward the under side of the frame and had to put mufflers under the doors outside the frame. its just too close of tolerances without a body lift. I am running 2.5 inch exhaust and generic flowmasters. After getting a quote from 3 diferent places for 300-450 to do an exhaust, I bought some mandrel bent pipe that was pre bent to 180 deg. and then cut and welded until it worked. I paid 10 dollars each for a two foot pipe bent into a 180. It cost me 40 bucks in actual materials used.

  7. #27
    Jester Guest

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    Linkage is hooked up. Used one stock handle and one of the stock links. Had to lengthen the link and inch by sleeving it but should be fine.

    Next is to put fluids back in everything and give it a try.

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jester View Post
    Linkage is hooked up. Used one stock handle and one of the stock links. Had to lengthen the link and inch by sleeving it but should be fine.

    Next is to put fluids back in everything and give it a try.
    that was my first intention, but i never had a shifter. just some linkage. so i made do.

    ryan

  9. #29
    Jester Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanroo View Post
    that was my first intention, but i never had a shifter. just some linkage. so i made do.

    ryan
    So far it has been a pretty easy swap. (Knock on wood) The brackets that Phoenix fabbed, made it mostly a bolt in. I added a little bit of plate to the shift link bar (thanks Ryan) to thicken it so the stock link end fits snug on it. The straighter of the two stock links only needed to be lengthened about an inch. Seems to shift fine. Stock drive lines fit fine once the conversion u-joints were put in.

    Fixing the exhaust is the next big project...

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

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    You're only using the one shifter lever, right? Are you going to keep the other one in there to maintain the original, confusing look? Just not have it connected to anything?
    -- Tim Taylor


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