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Thread: 14 Bolt Caliper Position

  1. #1
    Jester Guest

    Question 14 Bolt Caliper Position

    If you use a GM 14 Bolt axle with disc brakes on the rear of a M715, doesn't the caliper need to be adjusted so that it does not hit the spring?

    Where does it need to be positioned?

    Tried to seach but could not find it. thanks

  2. #2

    Default

    I recall most rotating them towards the back. Keep in mind that you're bleeder may not end up being the highest point. On other similar set ups I've simply removed the caliper and places a block of wood inbetween the pads while bleeding.
    This post is closed-captioned for the hearing impaired.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Montreal Canada
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    500

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    ...... simply removed the caliper and places a block of wood inbetween the pads while bleeding.
    This is the best way to do it !!! If you weld you caliper mount you can have them in good position but if you use a 4 or 8 holes adapter .... they will always be too low ... so need to removed for bleeding !!
    Rockwells / Cummins / 3053A
    Combat wheels on 395 XML
    M104A1 trailer

  4. #4
    Jester Guest

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Kamikaze12volts View Post
    if you use a 4 or 8 holes adapter .... they will always be too low ... so need to removed for bleeding !!
    Anyone have any pics of how they are clocked using the 4 hole adapters?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
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    369

    Default

    I did mine with brackets from Blue-Torch Fab... Lots of clocking options.
    http://bluetorchfab.com/store/produc...products_id=89



    Here you go:



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Montreal Canada
    Posts
    500

    Default

    the bluetorch are the best ...... that the way it would need the be weld with the standard 4 holes ... or they will be arounf the 7o clock position
    Rockwells / Cummins / 3053A
    Combat wheels on 395 XML
    M104A1 trailer

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    911

    Default

    That looks good bluesman. I recall a long time ago Lee commenting on mounting his on the bottom because of spring clearance. That's prolly what you're looking at if you don't have the 12 hole ones like pictured. Try searching for posts by MCInfantry. Maybe it'll pop up.

  8. #8
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wrecker View Post
    That looks good bluesman. I recall a long time ago Lee commenting on mounting his on the bottom because of spring clearance. That's prolly what you're looking at if you don't have the 12 hole ones like pictured. Try searching for posts by MCInfantry. Maybe it'll pop up.
    These ones look good.


    They have multi hole and also do not require spacers.

    http://www.diy4x.com/brakes.htm

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teckhardt View Post
    These ones look good.
    They have multi hole and also do not require spacers.
    http://www.diy4x.com/brakes.htm

    While I have not personally used them, I HAVE bought some stuff from DIY4X before, and their stuff is TOP notch. Their designs are beefy and made for real-world pounding. The brackets pictured above would solve the issue better than the BTF brackets I used. They are bent/broken out of a single piece of plate AND gusseted, complete with many mounting holes.

    The BTF solution uses spacers on the mounting bolts, which while they have not been problematic, have always been a pet peeve (if you're going to do that, at least make a SINGLE spacer plate... not 4 individual little sleeves.

  10. #10

    Default

    I also used the b.t.f works brackets.Worked well for me.

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