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Old November 17th, 2017, 12:17 PM
RRatch RRatch is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 15
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Quick thanks for the Chevy WC part numbers.

I just did a complete replacement of the stock brake system on my blue '67. Corvette MC, lines, and new wheel cylinders, without any drilling.
My lines were in good shape, but they were full of crud and rust never sleeps, so I replaced all with Cupro-Nickel anyway. Every point fluid touches is brand new.

I used the Chevy WC's, but could only find 7 right side units (I have 2 trucks), so went with that on both sides and just compensated in line routing on the left side.

The pedal is nice and firm, and stops the wheels on jack stands pretty well. Road test this weekend...

Here's my "after-action" summary and material list:

$172 total

Multiple fittings for 3/16 And 1/4 line:

25' rolls of 3/16 And 1/4 cupro line with various fittings:

Double flaring kit:

Rear axle 3/16 fitting hose:
ACDelco 18J2119

Wheel cylinders (1/4 thread inputs)
$19.04 ($4.76 ea)
part no. WC9344/EW9345 (all passenger side, but works on either)

Master Cylinder (corvette, non-power brakes):
$31.93 ($25 on 11/17/17)
Cardone Select 13-1371 New Brake Master Cylinder

(2) Front axle 3/16 fitting female ended hoses (usable, but too short for factory location; requires some bracket fab and steel line extending)
$12.90 ($5.95 ea + ship)
Sunsong - 2203913 - $5.95 ea (new stock)
Raybestos - BH36599 - $4.46 ea (NOS) - not used in this project
Dorman - H36599 - $7.65 ea (NOS) - not used in this project

An important note is the hoses for the front wheels. The ones I used are about 6" too short compared to factory, so require rerouting the steel line and bringing it further from the wheel and lower on the chassis. I was running new metal lines anyway, so no big deal.
Nowhere to host pics, but I stupidly ran the wheel end metal line over the kingpin, so if I ever remove it, I'll have to remove the line and bleed the brakes. Didn't think of it until the job was done and something in my head said it wasn't right.

Also, these are probably not good stock replacement parts, but rather for an entire system rebuild. The wheel cylinders required 7/16-24 fittings, and I ran 3/16 to individual wheels. Every other fitting in the truck is standard to the line size, EXCEPT at the master cylinder, where I again needed 1/2-20 fittings to adapt down to 1/4" line (for the single line to the rear) and 9/16-18 to 3/16" to the front wheels.
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