Recreating 10254. (with lots of questions)

[eimkeith]

More on the Horn Project: in addition to getting a NOS button, I ordered one of the 12v Jeep military horns to replace my universal civvy-looking one mounted under the front of my truck:



(12v on top, my 24v on bottom)





Back side (24v spare on top, 12v on bottom):




THIS is how I want to approach the 12v conversion! I just need to figure out the turn signal switch and gauges in a similar fashion...

[eimkeith]

On that (12v conversion) note, here is what I think might be my solution for retaining the Sparton turn signal switch/early production date look:




This is a Sparton switch from a Willys application. I can get the part number off of the back if anyone is interested.

The REALLY neat thing about it is this:



It has a rubber wheel that rides against the back of the steering wheel for turn signal cancel function. I'm already the idiot who rides around in his army truck with the turn signal on (constantly forget about it) so this, plus moving the heavy duty flasher relay into the cab behind the dash (where I can hear it) should resolve that.

I'll probably end up using the 2-stud bracket as designed on the switch, which will require a slight modification to the column. I'll use hose clamps for a test period first, though, before I commit to modifying the column.

I'll also need to defeat the remainder of the chrome on the lever so I can paint it appropriately.

[eimkeith]

OK, more on that Sparton turn signal switch (because I'm fascinated with it)


Here is what it looks like without skin:





- and here is a better angle of the wheel mechanism - you can probably discern how it operates by looking at it. (lever in Right Turn position - wheel will roll lever back to center when steering wheel is turned anti-clockwise.)





This is after I disassembled it, cleaned it up and re-assembled it. (I'll be doing this again to paint and lube it)





Since I'm going to be welding studs to the column for this component, I have to clarify an aspect of my steering wheel installation that did not affect anything until now: when I removed the Grant wheel and re-installed the stock M715 wheel, I ended up with both an intermittent horn function (depending on where the wheel is turned) and a spring-effect, wherein I can push the wheel toward the column a couple of inches as if on a spring.

I'll need to resolve both before I position the turn signal switch and make the studs permanent.



Another concern: what is the appropriate angle for the turn signal switch? 9 o'clock? 11 o'clock? Once it is installed, it stays there, so I want that clarified before I proceed.



And another question - this Sparton switch has no provision for Hazard Lighting. Did the M715 Sparton switch have such a provision?



And lastly - the bulb illumination window on this Sparton switch is BLUE. Is this correct for M715?

[eimkeith]

and here is the part number for this switch (photo taken prior to disassembly and cleaning)

MODEL SCS -3R

[eimkeith]

- and just in case anyone else decides to do this mod on their Kaiser in the future, here is some wiring info I ran across on the internet:

John, I took my old Sparton apart tonight and checked wires. Mine's a model SCS 3R (self cancelling switch). Here's the actual Sparton color codes:

LF=yellow
LR=light blue

RF=black
RR=orange

Brake=purple or brown, mine is so old it's hard to tell...

Load=white
Pilot=black

Having 2 black wires makes it hard to tell what's what but that's how mine came. Also you'll note that some of my color codes change between the Sparton and the Jeep wiring itself. Don't know if that's original but probably is. Here's how things crossed over in mine:

1) LF = single yellow wire (Sparton: yellow)
2) LR= single green wire (Sparton: light blue)

3) RF = dark grey wire in 3-wire plug (Sparton: black)
4) RR = orange wire in 3-wire plug (Sparton: orange)

5) brake switch power = light grey wire in 3-wire plug (Sparton: purple or brown)

6) flasher load: white wire to flasher socket (terminal "L") (Sparton: white)
7) flasher pilot: black wire to flasher socket (terminal "P") (Sparton: black)

+12V to terminal "X" in the flasher socket.

So the best way to check all this is to take the switch apart if you have to and check it with a meter to be sure you get things hooked up right!
Baby John
in Mendenhall MS
with an 84 CJ7....

This info was pulled from this thread in the Early CJ5 Forums

I'll report as to how well it works for the M715 when I install.