How friendly is Gillespie Paint?

I have a gallon of Kirker gray epoxy primer and was wondering how well Gillespie will work with this epoxy primer? Or, should I just get the Gillespie primer from Army Jeep Parts in PA and use that? How well does their primer prevent rusting? Is their primer need a catalyst or shoot as is or reduce?

If Gillespie primers are similar to lacquer primers I won't use it....lacquer primer is utter crap!

I used both their primer and paint. It was very friendly. It is mineral based paint and you thin it with xylene or paint thinner. I thinned mine about 10% and used a brush. It worked great. Layed flat like being sprayed untill I tried to give a second coat to early.(might want to wait more then 5 min. ) The primer I used was their rusty metal red primer. I dont remember part no. It worked great also.

The Gillispie paint is made to go over their red oxide primer and you will get a different shading of green over a gray primer. The Gillispie primer is not a laquer primer like what was used in automotive applications for years and years. You can't even buy that in some places anymore. It is a good all around primer that you basically use right from the can with just a little thinning to help it spray. The Gillispie paint will paint over other primer as would any other type of automotive paint. So if you want to use an epoxy primer go ahead I would just get it in a red oxide color to give you a better finished color.

I find the paint very easy to use, both the primer and the top coat paint. I am finding that it is a very soft paint. That could be because of the experience I recently had with base coat/clear coat two part paint. I am still painting small parts of my truck and assembling them. I am no professional painter, but I have painted with several different paints, on many metal objects, and it just seems that the Gillespie is very soft in comparison. I know now after putting some parts together that I will have to shoot a final coat on the truck after its all together. I actually painted the bed last Fall, and the rest is slowly getting painted and as I look at the truck I keep finding small spots that need touch up. Maybe
I should have put more coats on them.
I would like to hear from Barrman, or any others, to see if they think its soft.
Good luck with your paint job, my understanding was that the Gillespie paint was one of the best paints for the military vehicles because it still had a high level of lead in it. (wear a mask when sanding or painting):D

I agree about the softness. I painted a bunch of parts last night. We are having severe rains again and the paint was still very sticky after 12 hours this morning.

I didn't do it with this batch, but when it is still only a few days to a few weeks old, you can almost peel it off like a plastic wrap. But, once it is on there and cured. This stuff is great.

I would get a picture, but it is raining right now and my truck is outside because as I type and eat my sandwich, Agengr is out in my shop sanding on his hood. I painted my floor boards last September. I have never put a floor mat down. Just been putting my boots on the paint ever since. Except for where my right heel sits, you can't tell the paint is almost a year of severe use old. Surface prep and letting it have a week or so to cure is the secret as far as I can tell.

Barrman's trailer turned out good too. I put a 5 ton winch on it along with other parts and you could not tell it road 90 miles.

Yeah, a 5 ton winch, NP200, several M35 doors rode just fine for 90 miles without even scratching the paint. Me sliding the same items across the trailer didn't hurt it either. I spend 1 day moving my sister and all her play scapes and lawn furniture 30 miles, and now I have a few scraped areas. Which just proves that you shouldn't ever let your brother in law help load a trailer.

Here is another example of how the paint holds up. My 8 year old son likes to get in the back of the truck. Alot. He climbs the tires, puts a foot on top of the rear fender flare, stands up, rotates the foot on the fender flare (Grinding and twisting motion) and then steps into the bed. This is done in cleats, tennis shoes, boots and mud boots with all kinds of trash on the shoes. Yet, neither fender is the worse for wear because of it. It passes the hyperactive climbing kid test very well.