binfordm715 : Fluids change

Fluids change
Post by binfordm715 on May 7, 2006, 12:33am

I really ought to change all my fluids in the truck. Besides the -12 "Lubrication Order" manual, is there any compilation of what modern lubricants are recommended?

10W30 okay for the engine? What should I put in the transmission, t'case and differentials? And what do you suppose I should hit all the zerks with? Lithium-based grease, or what?

What's the equivalent of "MIL-G-10924" for the driveshaft slip-joints, U-joints and such?

I ought to pull the hubs and check the bearings too, eh?

So much to do, so little time.....

Re: Fluids change
Post by binfordm715 on May 7, 2006, 1:04am

Found the MSDS info on the MIL-G-10924:

Item name: GREASE, AUTOMOTIVE AND ARTILLERY

Ingredient #1 is "(ZNCPD) ZINC COMPOUNDS" (1.8%)

#2 is "LITHIUM 12 HYDROXYSTEARATE COMPLEX" (12%)

#3 is "POLYALPHAOLEFIN BASE STOCK" (63%)

#4 is "DISTILLATES, HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC" (12%)

Boy, never knew I could have this much fun with one of those blasted MSDS sheets!

Re: Fluids change
Post by k8icu on May 7, 2006, 11:02am

Tim, Don't over think this. For the Engine 10W30 should be just fine. Diffs, trans/tranfer use 90W gear goo. For the bearings use a good grade axel grease and for the u-joints a good lithium grease should do the trick. What you want in the way of grease is something that don't fall apart in water and doesn't splater in shock.

Re: Fluids change
Post by robertcowan on May 7, 2006, 12:26pm

i run straight 50 wght. full synthetic in all my trans, same stuff semi trucks run, 85w140weight in all diffs and t-case full synthetic. same as semi trucks. all runs cooler lasts for 1000,000 miles get better fuel milage , all around better stuff. another tip. when you pull your front and rear diff covers, go buy 4 cans of spray starting fluid. use two cans to clean out each diff. works perfect, leaves no residue. DONT SMOKE WHEN DOING IT !!!!!!! also let it drain for about 8 hours before you spray clean it. use permatex ultra black silicone to reseal covers. super good silicone. i install the semi diffs with it and never have a leak. i let it set at least a couple hours before installing fluids after sealing it up. amsoil, or eaton lubes or lucas are great brands of lube. any heavy truck parts place has em. if you go to the auto parts places you,ll get auto grade lubes. you want truck lube for heavy duty use.
just what i do.
bob

Re: Fluids change
Post by barrman on May 7, 2006, 4:26pm

Good points Bob. Before I swapped out my t-98, I ran Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in it, t-case and both axles.

I bring this up because the t-98 only leaked a little before. Everything you have heard about synthetics leaking more if your seals are bad is true on my t-98. I had changed the gear oil about 1,000 miles before I pulled it. It has since leaked at least 2 quarts out while sitting on a stand in my shop. I am on my third drain pan full right now. I can't imagine how fast it would have leaked out if I was actually using it.

Re: Fluids change
Post by robertcowan on May 7, 2006, 8:51pm

a worn out seal is a worn out seal. all semi trucks on the highway now run synthetic lube. if it was leak prone think they would run it and ruin there gear boxes. a 30 yrs old seal cant be expected to hold oil. synthetic is thinner while having better lube properties and shear strength . while you had trans out why not just put in a 8.00 seal ? jusy my opinion.
bob

Re: Fluids change
Post by k8icu on May 7, 2006, 9:20pm

I think bob just hit the nail on the head. It's thinner so if you had a small leak peior to chainging you might have a bigger one now because it can flow through. I would imagine that highway trucks aren't leaking and if they start they get fixed ASAP.

Re: Fluids change
Post by binfordm715 on May 7, 2006, 10:56pm

I'll go along with your imagining by adding that most highway trucks aren't 38 years old either!

Thanks for the tips, guys. But I'm going to stick with dino juice for now. The transmission and t'case are going to be swapped out eventually--long before they're worn out for sure. I'll take good care of them with regular oil changes and such, but I'll avoid agitating the leak-trolls by switching to synthetic in these old parts. Once I put in the 350/465/205, I'll go with synthetics.

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