I just acquired a 68 M715. I don't have much information about it and it need some work before its drivable. Any suggestions where to find parts or information as I need it. (truck is completely stock and hasn't run since 1988)
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I just acquired a 68 M715. I don't have much information about it and it need some work before its drivable. Any suggestions where to find parts or information as I need it. (truck is completely stock and hasn't run since 1988)
You have found it!....Ask away on particulars and we will help however we can...My great grandmother lived in Hellertown, haven't been there in years.
Welcome! As mentioned above, this is THE place to come for information. If you ask specifics, many of us can steer you to what you need and/or need to know.
I am a stock guy and try to keep my truck as it came from Kaiser in 1969. The manuals above are all about this truck. If you intend to keep it stock, it is very easy. There are however a few parts that just are not available. But many perishable items are out there.
Ask away and we love pictures.
Happy Holidays.
X2 on what Don said:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Cavey
Welcome and Merry Christmas
Best wishes of a New Year, providing you with the time and enthusiasm to get acquainted with your new truck
My truck is old and has been sitting since 1988, the wiring in it has become... crispy... are there any good aftermarket harnesses or is it better (and cheaper) to just rewire it on my own.
My truck is old and has been sitting since 1988, the wiring in it has become... crispy... are there any good aftermarket harnesses or is it better (and cheaper) to just rewire it on my own.
What I have found (on my truck) is that the wires are usually in bad shape where they were exposed to the atmosphere. However, under the black non-adhesive wrapping, they were like new. Maybe you could get some vintage 14 AWG rubber coated wire and splice under the wrapping a new piece where it is bad. I don't know how many wires are bad in your harness. I didn't crimp the splice, rather soldered it and covered with heat shrink tubing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech1841
If you check the auction site, often they have wiring harnesses for other vehicles which is a wealth of connectors, ends and wire. You can cut off what you need.
Just a thought though...
A "correct" replacement harness would be super expensive, you can get an affordable new harness from speedway or summit or one of the hot rod companies. Like Don said, might way cheaper to just repair some spots but that is going to depend on your assessment of your harness..
Welcome, take some time to read around here on the Zone as you can probably find the answer to most of your questions, if not then ask up, there are a lot of very knowledgeable members here. As for a wiring harness, there is really only one place that makes factory style replacement harnesses and that is Vintage Wiring of Maine, http://vintagewiring.com/product-cat...m-series/m715/ Just be aware they are fairly expensive harnesses. The other options are to make your own using the kits from Summit and other "hot rod" places, or search ebay for surplus M-series wire harnesses. The M-series trucks all use a standardized accessories and all have the same numbering, and with a little work you can adapt one to you needs. I helped a buddy do this on his M37, we used a surplus harness for a M35 gasser and was able to make it work.
If you do decide to repair the wiring in your truck, please know that there are basically two different connectors. One is called a "Douglas" which has a metal shell and the other is called "Packard" which is what our M715 uses. You can often find surplus wiring harnesses for a 5-ton etc. and take the wire that you need.
I say welcome also. My truck was born in 68 Feb. You'll have to click on the little picture to the left to see it, as I still can't figure out how to post pictures. Many members have tried to help me, but I'm not good enough on this laptop to do it. Is their a way to do it from my phone? I absolutely hate not being able to share pics to this site!
All of your questions will be answered here on the Zone. Many people, more than willing to share what they know and have been through.
Welcome to the site. The first thing you need to do is get a copy of the Technical Manuals (TM's) for the truck. The are like the Chiltons manual but the Army broke them up into groups each ending with a - and a number. -10 is the operators manual. It was written for the guy driving the truck. -20 is for the motor pool repair shop at unit level. -34 (30/40) is the depot maintenance which will allow you to rebuild everything. You will want to get a copy of all three books. And the -20 and -34 also have a corresponding -20P and -34P which are the parts books that show every part, nut and bolt.
The wiring as stated before is straight forward and repairing your harness is not the difficult and new wire and connectors can be had on that famous online auction/shopping site. Good luck with your truck and post pictures when you can. We love pictures.
We started over on mine with a universal harness from Hotrodwires.com, and it works great. Not nearly original, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech1841
Download the Tapatalk app for your phone-- it's the only way I can figure out how to post pix.Quote:
Originally Posted by militarypotts
Yikes! I don't even know what tapatalk is. I'll see if my daughter or daughter in law can help me with it. I've had so many pictures I would have liked to post, but I'm just not smart enough I guess. It's very frustrating to me. I'll try though, thanks.
It's like any other app for your phone: weather, games, etc., easily downloaded from the source applicable to the platform your phone uses (mine is the Apple App Store).Quote:
Originally Posted by militarypotts
Please understand I'm no techie: I lived in rural WY for 18 years where knowledge like chaining up a truck or hammering a saw blade were important. I still don't know what "hashtag" means.
If I can do it, you certainly can.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I need it.
How do I go about adding new LED lights to my truck (off road lights) most are 12v is it easier to just get the converters or should I look fro 24v alternatives
most of the LED lights out there are 10-30 volts, so you don`t have to get special lights. Just read the description and voltage before you purchase them.
I just recently purchased a 50",20" light bars and a bunch of 3"x3" lights all up to 30 volts.
I finally got my truck running. How ever after running for a few seconds it starts to spray oil from the oil filter (enough for a possible epa call) the filter is the Napa 1515 that's recommended the oil is SAE 30. It seem like the oil pressure is too much and blowing the seals out of the filter. Has anyone else had this problem and what can I do to fix it?
I finally got my truck running. How ever after running for a few seconds it starts to spray oil from the oil filter (enough for a possible epa call) the filter is the Napa 1515 that's recommended the oil is SAE 30. It seem like the oil pressure is too much and blowing the seals out of the filter. Has anyone else had this problem and what can I do to fix it?
What's the pressure on the oil gauge?
gauge has it coming in around 80.
Sounds like you oil pump by pass valve is stuck.
Not trying to be a smarty pants but dd you make sure that the gasket from the old filter wasnt stuck to the truck when you put the new one on? I havent done that but others have and have reported this kind of problem...maybe its that simple...I hope.
Certainly worth looking into. I became aware of that many years ago and it is my standard to always look at the filter on any vehicle to be sure that it is still on the oil filter. I have seen more than one situation where the "O" ring gasket was not present on the old filter and there it was, stuck to the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
My oil pressure maxes out at 60 psi, so I'm thinking the pressure relief valve is stuck.
i did. im pretty sure the where the oil returns to the engine from the filter is clogged. causing the filter to over pressurize
I'm having some issues insuring and registering my 68. They need a vin and I can't seem to find one. Is it different because it's military? Where should I look?
Should be on the data tags or on the passenger front frame horn on top if i am not mistooken....
If you do not have the data plates on the dash, the frame is numbered, see here: http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=vin_registry
I finally got my 68 running. It smokes and clicks but it's a start. (Last ran in 88) my new problem is brake lights and turn signals. Where can I find a diagram for the wiring for the turn signals and brake lights.
At the top of this page, there are many resources. The link below should be what you are looking for. It was drawn by Ron Boltz, a member here (Thanks again Ron!).Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech1841
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/man...ck_distbox.pdf
After several months of labor we finally got the engine running on its own power. Now we need to get the stopping fixed, my question is, where can I find brake parts that wont break the bank. (completely stock 68) and I read somewhere that the bolt pattern is unique and its hard to find wheels to replace the stock split rims. How true is this, are they similar to the commander?
With the stock axles you're stuck with the stock wheels or custom made wheels. Recentered HMMWV wheels are popular.
You've seen the wheel cylinder conversion thread.
Here's a thread on adapting Chevy brake shoes to fit.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=15990
I thought I'd seen a thread on a different part # shoe that was a closer fit but can't find it.
Sometimes I see stock brake linings on ebay. Or there may be an outfit close to you that can reline your old shoes.
Moved my M for the first time in a while. Decided to try the 4wd... it worked fine but now its locked in 4wd I cant seem to get the lever to move back. Also my original engine is hurting where can I find a rebuild kit or what have people done to rebuild the engine? Thanks!
Drive in reverse while pushing it out of 4 wheel. It’s bound up but should release.
And if that doesn't work, drive it on grass or dirt and try again.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonz