CUCV Axle Swap

I'm considering swapping in a Dana 60 Front 14 Bolt rear from a CUCV pickup truck. I tried to search the old boards because I know that others have done this in past but I was having trouble with pulling anything up. It's way too slow right now. Anyways whats involved with the swap? I see only the positives here, front disc, 4.56 gears, easy to find parts, easy rear disc swap, 8 bolt lug pattern, stonger axles. What are the negatives.

a little fabbing is all. are you trying to spring over or under? i am the only person i know of that has swapped CUCV axles spring UNDER. its on my page..... lots of hassel for spring under, but i figure low center of gravity is more my style, and 39" tires are plenty big for me

there are TWO basic CUCV trucks. a m1009 id a blazer and NOT axles you want. the m1008 is the truck. the m1008 came with a detroit in the rear. the m1028, i think, may have come with a limited slip up front too, but these are more rare.

also note you have to convert the rear to discks, as the ubolts are almost flush with the drum backing plate bracket. i upgraded to larger ubolts and the axle BARELY fits.

edit. spring under allows use of the stock chevy tie rod, flipped from left to right. the center hole for the steering satbalizer was drilled and tapered for a 7/8ths tie rod end and it connects to a stock wagoneer power steering gear and stock pitman arm and a good angles, to help prevent bump steer. a drop pitman arm will not work, i tried

It is from the pickup truck and $1500 for the set. Only 37,000 miles on it. Do the rims work or did you have to change them out? I dont know if it would be spring under or over for me. Nay other problems that i need to know about?

i edited the above post if you missed it.

1500 is not a deal. thats going price all over the country. brake calipers for the rear are about 80 rotors 40 and caliper brackets are 100 (the ones i used dont use spacers)

stock rims will work, but with 1100x16 tires i get a little rub on the springs. you can either get custom backspace rims or adjust your bumpstops

crossover steering is the best, and our stock axles are highsteer. highsteer on a springover would be a must (i think, but i dont know for sure) and thats 120 per arm (240 total) then custom rods too another 150 for both, no including tie rod ends

I think I would go for spring under. You have done it, and I agree with you on the center of gravity. I will see if I can get a lower price, but I doubt it. So are the rims 16" rims? I thought they might be 16.5".

$1500 is a deal in UT. Boyce is selling POS junkers for that, front only. You can easily swap rims to the more easily dealt with 16's. Stock Chevy is 16.5 and tires are usually more expensive. Except Swampers for some reason...

mine had no rims, calipers or front ring and pinion or carrier bearing caps (i got jacked)

i dont know, but i guess that maybe they come with 16.5?

Can you put together a list of everything thats involved in doing the CUCV axle swap? I still have lots of questions. One is what needs to be done with the driveshafts and spring perches? Thanks

front axle: needs 3 ubolts at 3" (i think) one at 4"for when you cut the knuckle perch down then grind it. thats $20, and i went 9/16... you buy two weld on perches ($20). you will also have to fab a passenger side ubolt plate with a 2.5" width between the EDGE of the holes then for the 3" ubolt and 4" ubolt. center the axle and weld the perches in.
i dont THINK you need a new front shaft if you use the stock np200 and 1310 yoke. i swapped 1350 yokes on everything as the 14 bolt is 1350. i have a conversion 1310-1350 ujoint you can have for shipping. i used it to line everything up. also you need to set caster at 8 degrees +-.5 degrees. i can give you an accurate yoke measurement as i have a digital angle finder ($100). mine is 8.2degrees and was set on a hunter alignment machine. it should be noted our stock axles are NOT correct as current standards suggest, but no vibrations and good ujoint life is evident.
take the old (if its good,if not its $80 for the rod with a built in end and the other end is $20) tie rod and drill a 43/64ths hole in it. tap the hole with a reamer (ill send it to you for a deposit, and then you can return it to me as its 140 dollars in tap and bit). then buy a chevy 7/8 tie rod end for that hole and a wagoneer pitman arm tie rod end. i think the grag link rod needs to be 24.5" ($75) and threaded left and right hand 7/8ths x 20. now you have crossover steering.
stock chevy brake lines work.
wagoneer box can be had at a junkyard. use the stock arm. i had http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/index.html rebuild mine and tap it for a hydraulic ram that is not installed yet (to push the big tires with a locker)

rear axle: cut the old perches off, or not. you need new weld on perches ($20).you need 4 ubolts (3.125"?)and can reuse the stock ubolt clamps if you adjust the holes. you need brake calipers and i used the stock ebrake handle for a disc brake on my 205. you use 1978 2/4 ton chevy FRONT calipers with no ebrake, or you can use 70's caddilac rear calipers for caliper mounted ebrake. i also used the stock chevy front lines and you can reuse your stock drop line. the brakets, which dont use spacer as i dont like that style are http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/ima...oltbrakets.jpghttp://www.sky-manufacturing.com/ima...oltbrakets.jpg

anything i left out??? stock rims work, but i like chains and think stock wheels are a little close on the rear.