How to convert the front Dana 60 to 35 spline axles

I received instructions and pictures of the procedure from Mike Green on how to do a 35 spline axle swap for the Dana 60. There is now a page at:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=35_spline
Mike sent this to me about 2 years ago. I was offline for a while back then, then we moved and it was lost until recently. I regret that it has taken this long but I hope that it is of value to those who seek a stronger front axle with a stock exterior look.
And THANKS TO MIKE GREEN for documenting all his hard work to do this swap!!!
brute4c

I'm not too sure on why he's using the spiders here... nor, if he's going to use the stock size joints or not.

Thanks for posting it though.

If you mean the spiders on the drive flanges...with the new axles, the "end plate" or drive flange is a different spline than stock...this was his solution to that problem...I dont know if anyone makes a lockout hub for our pattern with a different than stock spline count...
The joints...do you mean the ujoint connecting to the pinion or the steering joint in the knuckle? The steering joint he used is bigger than the stock one and he had to open the knucle a little for it.
Hope that helps.....
brute4c

I meant the axleshaft u joint. There were no pictures of that, nor did I pick up on him talking about opening the knuckle up. Is his knuckle now open? Or just not closed (no more grease?) or what?

And, so he used the stock outer with the larger inner???

down at the bottom of the page, he talks about the ujoint in the knuckle and the king pin clearnace...he is running closed knuckles...here is the text:

Compare the old inner axle shafts to the new inner axle shafts for length. if they are the same the u-joint will fit correctly to the king pin. Go ahead and assemble the axles. If you compare the width of the old dog ears outer to outer and the new axles you will find the new ones to be 1/4 of an inch wider to the outside. When my knuckles were on and the axle shafts inserted I found the passenger side perfect. The outside dog ear of the stub axle was almost flush to the knuckle. I then put the spindle and backing plate on the knuckle and bolted it in. I turn the yoke and it all turned with no dragging. Then to the drivers side. On the drivers side It was real tight when the spindle was put into place.. Normally there is a ring that goes on last to stop the bolts from backing out of the backing plates.. I took that ring and put it in my vise and flattened all the tabs. I then placed it on first then the spindle then the backing plate. So this gave me about 1/16th inch more clearence. Again I spun the yoke and all was clear. Next I put the hubs back on. Then I added the drive flanges. After each drive flange I spun the yoke again and it was all clear. Yeeeeeeeee haaaaaaaah, 35 spline from side to side.

Hope that helps.
brute4c

WHY IS THE DACHSUND NOT LABELED IN PICTURE NUMBER 1?????

It is mentioned toward the end of the article that the dog in question is his helper, Patrick!!
brute4c

I guess I'd need to take mine apart to really get what he's talking about...

I still don't quite get it...

But thanks for trying.

Hmm.. would you have a picture of what he's talking about?

Those are all the pics I have...the knuckle has had some minor relieving inside of it so that the new, larger inner/outer axle shaft and joint have clearance in that area...it isnt a big amount, just enough to keep it clear when spinning around...it is still a closed knucke full of grease.
The whole axle is new...the spline count is more in the carrier end, thus the reason for the new locker....and more on the outer end, thus the reason for the new drive flanges.
Does that help?
brute4c