Brake shoes for dummies

Okay, I'm talking about my left side (drivers side) brake shoes, front and rear axles.
Okay, there are long and short linings on the shoes, I know that. There is one shoe facing forward and one facing backwards.
Now here's the question;

I found the front wheel shoes with the short lining'd shoe on the rear, long on the front.

On the rear axle I found the short lining'd shoe on the front and the long on the rear.

They were basically 180* out from each other, were they installed wrong?
If so, what is the correct way/sequence to mount them. Remember, please dont get too wordy, I can do it if it's kept as simple as possible. Thanks a load in advance.

Usuaully short in front long on back,I'm not sure about the 715 tho.

DJ

Like Dave says. Short to the front and long on the back. On the right side the star wheel is next to the secondary shoe (long shoe). On the left side the star wheel is towards the primary shoe (short shoe). Also make sure the arrow on the brake self-centering anchor block points to the front of the vehicle.

For those who have relined shoes, the linings are usually the same length so position doesn't matter.

Verrry Cool. Thanks, y'all. Short to front, long in the back. Wonder how much difference it made having them reversed on that front wheel?
Last night I had to take the plate down to mount the rear wheel cyl. I also broke 3 grinding bits on my dremel opening up the holes. That mounting plate is thick!

Short in front is always the rule on every vehicle I have been into. By reversing the shoes, I have noticed there is less "grab" when the brakes are applied.

Not sure the theory behind that though, but as Kwai put it, relined shoes are all the same length linings, so it must not be too important to have a shorter lining up front, just not the short one in back.

it has to do with the leading shoes desire to grab an self-energize agianst the drum a shorter lining is best to accomplish this. most often utilized with self adj brake designs manual adj brakes tend to use similar linings although I do know the cj2a (45-49) used a short long lining with the long shoe on front the manual doesnt explain why. For further info visit here: www.cdxetextbook.com/index.html

The theory behind the short/long brake shoe is this: the shorter shoe is, theoretically, all that is needed to initiate the self-actuation of both shoes going forward. In reverse, because of slower speeds, there is less self-actuation, so you need more surface area for the same amount of friction. The reason teh CJ-2a is different is because they are not self-actuating brakes, they are anchored, cam-eccentric brakes, so the the theory is much different.

Ahhhhh, now its coming back to me! Thanks for the refresher course!

The leading shoe helps to apply the other one......

On old British motorcycles we use Twin Leading Shoe brakes, which have linkage which applies both shoes at the same time mechanically. Until they get very hot, they work quite effectively for a drum brake.

from SS Forums

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...view_album.php

after reviewing the manual it dosent mention placement of the primary or secondary shoes- which is why it was covered in the army motors update that is linked by warwick above. I also read a couple things I didnt know such as the anchor block has an arrow on it which must point foward, I wonder if mine are? Ill have to ck them when i do my reline soon. also they instruct that the primary return spring go on first always, and lastly that the brake pedal pivot bolt is an eccentric and adjusts the free play in the brake pedal travel (spec is 1/2 inch). mine does seem ok there. but its apparent i need to reread my manual I have been missing alot of info.

Awsome post! I'm right here in this point of the game too. I'm dropping off my brake shoes for relining tomorrow, meanwhile I need a new inner seal to install.

The principle used with the M715 brake configuration is what they call "Duo-Servo", basically, that is why there is no lower shoe anchor. The ending result is that there is more pressure applied to the rear shoe ( when moving forward, of course) and is considered self-energizing. Shorter pad goes in front, more surface for the back shoe...

The Quirks Manual, see Manuals link up top, says all the info needed for proper servicing:

Quote:

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GIVE ‘EM A BREAK
Brake shoes on your 5-quarter are different from what you’ll find on other tactical wheeled vehicles — the front, or primary, shoe in each wheel has a shorter lining than’s on the rear shoe. Make sure you install ‘em that way— and they’ll give you a brake.

And if you happen to have that brake shoe self-center anchor block off the backing plate, make sure you put it back with the arrow pointing toward the front of your 5-quarter. Otherwise, your brake shoes won’t fit against the drums like they’re supposed to — and you’ll get quite a surprise when you want to stop quick!

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There is a drawing showing the arrow as well.

Like you I was directed to the quirks (who'd have thought) manual when I asked, only mine was even more messed up. No two wheels were alike! I even had two shorts on one and two longs on another. When they came back from reline they were all the same.

On M715 I had my drum turned and while adjusting the brakes I hear a grinding sound. Do I have to replace the shoes or what?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kwai

Like Dave says. Short to the front and long on the back. On the right side the star wheel is next to the secondary shoe (long shoe). On the left side the star wheel is towards the primary shoe (short shoe). Also make sure the arrow on the brake self-centering anchor block points to the front of the vehicle.

For those who have relined shoes, the linings are usually the same length so position doesn't matter.

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When mine came back from relining, same length for all the shoes.

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Originally Posted by 67U20

When mine came back from relining, same length for all the shoes.

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I almost ended up with the same problem.

When the brake relining shop called me, to get payment before shipping them back.
I'm glad that I thought to ask, if they relined the short shoes to the original lenght.
They said, "did you want them left shorter? Nobody does that anymore"
Anyhow, they redid them with no complaints.
Mine also came back with the friction material bonded to the shoes instead of rivited, not sure if that is good or bad.:confused:

The shoes that were on my truck when I got it were all the same length. Because some of the wheel cylinders had leaked, there were at least four shoes damaged. I got a rebuilt set from AB Linn and they had the short and long linings on the shoes. Those shoes went on the front brakes and the all-the-same-length shoes went on the rear. I didn't know that it was a common thing with our brakes...

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Originally Posted by jeepdan

...Mine also came back with the friction material bonded to the shoes instead of rivited, not sure if that is good or bad.:confused:

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Bonded linings have been around for quite awhile. In one respect they are better than rivets. Rivets, generally speaking, function on a shear plane. So the actual strength is localized to the rivet shank, where bonding has the entire shoe to lining area in a shear plane. Plus rivets can work loose and I've yet to see any real de-bonding of bonded shoe/lining.