Cardone 10-1489 Master Cylinder Conversion

I upgraded my wheel cylinders and brake shoes to modern parts, thanks to the information found on this site, and found out the original type master cylinder could not handle the pressure.:mad:

I decided it would be better to switch to a split-system than to purchase another original type master cylinder.
I went with the A1 Cardone 10-1489 master cylinder(information provided by Binford in this topic: http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...hlight=10-1489 )

Here is the installation in pictures:

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_001.jpg

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_002.jpg

I robbed the brake lines and proportioning valve block off of this early CJ7.
The lines screwed right into the new master cylinder.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_003.jpg

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_004.jpg

I removed a locating tab from the very bottom of the bracket and enlarged the mounting hole to match the M715.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_005.jpg

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...0-1489_006.jpg

Sweet write up! Thanks.

EXCELLENT write up....this will be EXTREMELY helpful when I tackle mine

Good write up - one note - I used the Cardone 10-1331 master and don't recall having to modify the pushrod into the master.

This is a great thread. THANKS for taking all the pics and writing it all up and posting it...this is how we all learn and make sure that everyone understands the process with as little confusion as possible...A1 work!!

Thanks for posting this with some nice pictures to help explain it.

I do have a concern about the proportioning valve though. I am no expert on this so someone with more expertise may need to correct me but unless you have disc brakes on the front axle you may not want to use that valve.

If I am not mistaken the proportioning valve adjusts the fluid so the front disc brakes and the rear drum brakes each get the proper amount of fluid. (I think less volume is needed for disc brakes). As far as I know all CJ-7's had disc brakes on the front axle and drum brakes on the rear. That valve was designed to have them work properly together. If you try to use it with drum brakes front and rear I think the front brakes will have less stopping power. I believe the back wheels will lock before the front.

Again I'm no expert. I could be wrong.

For sure, if one goes to a dual master cylinder or disc brakes with a dual master cylinder, there must be a proportioning valve. Often, the size of piston cup in the master cylinder is different for front and rear. Certainly I am no engineer. But if I were to convert the truck to something that had a dual master cylinder and/or front disc brakes, I would be consulting some expert advice. For the little that I drive my truck, I am happy with the single original setup. Everything is new except for the rubber pedal pad! I mean new...

I was under the impression that disc calipers needed a lot more fluid than the small wheel cylinders of drum brakes...but the front brakes need to wait until the rear shoes touch the drums before they activate...otherwise the rears either lock up from trying to do all the braking or never get enough to do any and leave all the work for the fronts...so rears move first, contact with drum means the fronts now activate and speed drops off as friction increases.