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I never had the original NP200 sticks. Allt he truck came with was the axles. Which I gave to Glenn. In thinking I don't think I would need the features. Maybe backing a trailer in 2wd low range. But I can shift into low range and leave the hubs alone for that. I ended up making this shifter a couple years ago that bolts on the side of the T98. The handle part was a wagoneer dana 20 shifter I cut off. I can clock this one and it shifts the 205 very nicely. I guess it will do.
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The buick 350 is wasted. Just about as bad as the 205. I can fix it but motor work is never cheap. I had water in three cylinders that has actually cleaned up pretty well. I will need to hone to rering. One cam lobe is flat. Or going flat. The fact it is only one means it was probably a bad cam or lifter. More of them would be bad if it were an oil issue. So I need a new cam. I have a question email off to Lunati cams right now. I am looking at an RV cam. That and I can see this motor was recently rebuilt being bored 0.030 over. A lot of normal worn out parts look new. But it appears this motor was assembled and run without thorough cleaning. The main bearings are just trashed. It looks like machine grit wasted them. What a bummer. I found a complete reground crankshaft and matching bearings at Rockauto for 365.00. I don't think I could get mine turned and buy bearings for that cheap. So it is on the way. I have learned a lot about Buick 350s the last couple days. This motor has all the parts to really wake it up. A very valuable Poston S-divider 4 barrel aluminum intake, They are out of business and this part is rare. Made for the buick 350. Doug Thorley ceramic coated headers with big tubes and high volume oil kit. Hei ignition, this motor should make really good power when it is put together. I will stay focused on that and not what Liz would have said about me and my 3 alarm fire bank account. :)
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Water is not your friend outside of a cooling system.
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I have a set of stock NP200 sticks if you want them. Just say the word and I'll run them up next weekend.
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I appreciate the offer Glenn. I will keep what I have for now. But you should make the trip up for a visit if you get time. I spend most of my days in the shop in winter. And I need to nail a date for a IFSJA and zone campout. I am thinking June some time.
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I am almost done with the np205 rebuild. I am waiting on some used good Ebay shift rails. I am also waiting on a LOT of Buick 350 parts. A turned crankshaft with matching rods and mains included. A TA performance camshaft, Cam bearings, CAST rings, ebay vintage Johnson HT969 USA made lifters, and several other things. I had a very interesting conversation with Mike the owner of TA performance. The premiere Buick nuts candy store. We talked about killing camshafts and how not to. I was pleased to hear him say use Valvoline VR-1 oil. It is high zinc and he said get and use STP motor oil treatment with every oil change. It has even more ZDDP to help these older flat tappet cams survive. And he made an interesting point. Letting our hobby rigs sit for a month or several depletes the oil film on the cam lobes. He said people start their cars after sitting and let it idle to warm up. Big mistake he said as the cam is essentially lacking lube and those lobes have to wait for the oil to run down the valve train and bleed off from the lifters to bathe the lobes with the oil they need to cushion them and protect them against wear. He said start the engine and even though it is cold, run it to 1800 and splash the cam with oil from the crank. This wets the cam lobes and then let it warm up. Don't hold it there but give it a short run at 1800 to throw some oil off the spinning crank. He is also aware that todays oil is indeed NOT backwards compatible with these older engines, and the high zinc and phos needs that they have. Those compounds will kill catalytic converters. That is why they removed ZDDP from oil years ago. So by all means all you guys running older motors like the stock 230, well you should be running high ZDDP oil to help it live longer. At moderately low temperatures ZDDP forms a slippery glass like coating on metal parts that contact other metal parts. So if you are not running high zinc oil, at least use the STP additive. I will mention again I have been feeding my Civi jeeps Valvoline VR-1 for several years now. It does have higher levels of ZDDP. And I hopefully don't need to mention just how crappy Fram filters are. Mkay? LOL Even on TA's site it says stay away from FRAM. I chuckled when I read that. They recommend WIX and that is how I roll also. On a happy ending note, it appears my cylinder heads have the bigger valves. I hope they are not trashed too. Cheers..
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The NP205 rebuild is done. Replaced the shift rails, both front and rear output shafts, both low gears, bearings, seals gaskets, speedo parts. There was a lot wrong. Not any more.
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I took the T98 M715 4 speed apart today. To check for issues and to change the input shaft over to the ultra long J truck input shaft for being behind the Buick 350. The one on the right in the picture that is poking my ceiling. This gearbox is in near perfect shape. For once... Very little wear.
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Engine parts are starting to show up. And it snowed 10 inches today. Nuts...
I will clean everything and get it assembled, painted and it too will end up on a wheel dolly like the 205. I am only waiting on gasket set.
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Looking good. We got a good 6 inches or more here in Post Falls yesterday. Just when you think winter is done it comes back. I'm so ready for some sunny spring days.
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Yes this winter seems to be dragging on. I have stuff to do this summer. But this seems to be a winter project. I am getting as much done as possible. Anyway...
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So sometimes it is better to leave things greasy and dirty. I found a cracked rear bearing housing. If anybody has a T98 that they could spare one off of I'd buy it.
I think it is still usable but if one can be located... I would prefer to replace it. Most of the mounting ear is there. But that piece will disappear some day.
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I could use one of these...
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I have a couple of spare T98s I think. Let me look for that rear output and it's yours.
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Thank you Glenn. I searched for hours last night online. Nada... I think that is the mounting ear that takes the round brace. So I should fix it.
I measured 39 inches of snow on my car trailer just now. There is not that much on the ground, because of gradual melting. The car trailer usually is a good measure for the year.
I am going to try and assemble the trans today. I can put that on last. But please let me know if you find anything. I really appreciate it.