-
spring over conversion
I am looking for some help with my spring over. I have a 68 m715 with dana 60 front axle. I have found new spring perches and u bolts. How can I keep my tie rod from hitting spings once they are moved. Does anyone make a piece to attach to the steerong arm to raise this up or do I have to fab it myself? Thanks.
-
Are you using the stock dana 60, or say a later model chev???
-
Once sprung over, all you need to do is run a taper bit from the top down, and get larger tapered tie rod ends. Napa has book, you will need to make the large end of the original tie rod to be the small end of the new. I think I have the boxes they came in still for part numbers. It's AM here I'll get the info after work. Later
-
In addition to what was already mentioned, my truck required the following modifications:
The front drive line needed to be lengthened. The new steeper front drive line angles were severe and needed a new CV drive line.
The transmission cross member needed to be modified to accommodate the front drive line.
The steering box needed a new drop arm to avoid bump steer.
Longer brake lines.
Lift blocks on the rear axle.
-
Thanks for the input. I am using the original Dana 60. Just to make sure I understand. After the springs are on top of the axle, I can still attach the tie rods to the steering arm, only I will attach them to the top instead of the bottom. Part numbers would be awsome. The other info is also good. Helps me remember additional stuff. Did anyone have to rotate the steering arms on the axles?
-
Some guys cut,flip and weld them back on, I personally would'nt reccomend that. Run a taper down on the top of the stock arms and with new ends, presto. I'll get you #'s, been swamped! Dan
-
You do not need to rotate the steering arms.
-
I recently acquired a 68 M-715 basketcase with a good body and am wondering how some of you have dealt with a GM Dana 60 springover axle swap. I took some quick measurements and the passenger side spring pad the is cast into the pumpkin seems to be in the wrong spot if I want the axle to be centered under the vehicle. Pictures would be good but even a description would help. Thanks
-
Dan, Thanks in advance for the numbers and guidance. The current set-up (very long front shackles) is really scarey. It was a previous owners attempt at a lift. I will feel much better/safer with the springs moved!
Thanks also to brute4c for the answer to the steering arm question.
Glenn, I have looked into the GM axle swap a bit. It's definately a better axle. Can be 35 splines as opposed to our 30 splines. Also the Knuckles are more durable. Swapping however seems pretty involved. Relocating spring pads, probably new gears and lockers, and the hardest is correcting all the steering stuff to match up with the GM axle. Then theres the issue of having a different bolt pattern between your front and rear axles. This is all doable but too complicated and expensive for me.
-
I already have the front axle and would change the rear to a 14 bolt. I am a mechanic so changing the gear ratio and alot of the other work that needs done is fairly cheap for me, at least labor, parts would still cost.