Is there an adapter so as to use Civilian Spark Plugs and Civilian Spark Plug wires on a Stock(230) Military Distributor?
-Bump if you are out there Doug mentioned you might know something about this?
Any Help Greatly Appreciated!
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Is there an adapter so as to use Civilian Spark Plugs and Civilian Spark Plug wires on a Stock(230) Military Distributor?
-Bump if you are out there Doug mentioned you might know something about this?
Any Help Greatly Appreciated!
I noted that the threaded towers of the ignitor case (whre the waterproof wires are connected) share thread dimensions with a garden-variety compression-type brass nut (like used on air lines, or ice-maker filter lines). I have toyed with the idea of getting civvi wires, terminate the dist-end with "soft" compression-type coil springs, and securing with the compression ferrule. I have not tried this, but it may just work. It seems one could even maintain the water-proofedness of the system that way.
I have civvy wires and plugs on mine. i read about it several years ago. i think i sent the article to Brute4c??? to post here. i'll take some pictures tonight and see if i can find the article again.
k
Only had the truck a few days and already he's mucking it up and booty-fabbing it to pieces. Shame.
-B.
Booty-Fabbing huh? Check this out! And it runs Good like this! Waterproof too,right Doug?
http://www.imageshack.us/img1/1894/dist2.jpg
Brian, I was just looking for an alternative to the 1quart of silicon distributor cap. :D
HEY now, just to clarify, I had nothing to do with that.....LOL
It was a freebie from another zoner that did not do it either,Somebody out there should recognize this, speak up if you want as to it's maker.
It did run good though, I actually passed that around from one truck to another to determine if the correct looking cap on a different rig was cause to a misfire I had.
Compression fittings, They do make some with plastic ferrules that would help insulate from the metal nut, Good Idea Bump_r, someday when I'm really bored, I may go dig thru our compression fittings to see what matches up.
I did convert a different truck to stock wires myself. The silcone rubber inside the braded metal is flared out on the ends to hold it in the fitting. Pull this out so you can cut it off. Remove the entire length of plug wire from the wire braided cover. Take the fitting end for the spark plug side and remove it completely. Now insert the end of a new wire and fish it thru to the distributor end of the wire braided cover. Take the distributor end off your old wire, remove the spring on the end leaving it connected to a 1/2" section of the old solid wire. Stab that section of solid wire in the end of the new wire along side the carbon filiment. Appy a small amout of rtv to secure the new wire in the wire braided cover in the appropriate position so that it simulates the length of the original. allow ot dry then assemble. It is still working good on my trail rig after two years service.
Jon, (brute) knew about this. I don't remember the exact details, but certian spark plug ends (leads) could be crimped on to make it work. Seems like they were from a lawn mower shop or sumptin.... Lotta help huh?
What I have done is to take 7MM solid core ignition wire...buy about 15 feet from a lawn mower repair shop...they should have the correct spark plug ends you need as well as the ends for the cap end of the wire...that end is a little brass deal that, when laid out flat, has a round flat middle with a little spike sticking up...this part goes into the end of the wire and the spike into the core...and there is a rectangular tab on 2 sides of the circle that get folded up the sides of the wire and have little spikes on them to grip into the insulation on the sides of the wire. Then I bought some boots for the 2 ends and put it together with civvy plugs. When inserting the wires into the cap end, through the mil cover, you have to be careful to put them in all the way to the bottom but not push to hard as you can crack/break part of the terminal tower that the wire goes down through...I did it on a brand new cap once...sucked...
Anyway, this is not water proof...it is better than the worn out mil wires that were on my truck, cheaper, readily available pieces, cheap enough to carry a few spare ends and feet of wire so any wire could be made if needed, and allowed for a timing light to be hooked up whenever...now that I run a civvy distributor, its moot to me...
It is a good way for guys using the military distributor to have a fairly easy way to check the timing...take off #1 wire and plug and put on this type wire and a civvy plug and hook up the timing light...for that application, its not something that would wear out any time soon...just a thought.
I do seem to remember someone sending me something on a way to use the civvy plug wires AND be waterproof...doesnt seem to be on the PC so I'm guessing it may be in a box somewhere...will search around for it...I found a box of RC plane stuff stuck in my truck parts in the shop yesterday when my daughters were helping me look for the horn buttons...
brute4c
Jon
i sent it to you a long time ago. it was an article from "Power wagon times" or something like that. I'll look again tonight. couldn't find it last night. it uses 7mm wires and metal antenna connectors that are drilled out to the right size for the wires. it is not water proof, but i guess if you siliconed it.
mine has been working for years now.
k
Ive got a new address since we moved...I'll pm ya the new one...
And thanks for the resend...I'm sure its in a box somewhere...same one that has the Dodge motor mount info you sent me I'm sure...
brute4c