Electric fuel pump

What can you tell me about electric fuel pumps? I'm thinking about putting one on the 715. What kind of GPH and psi range would be adequate for the stock 230? Does the electric fuel pump run all the time, or is it supposed to cut out when the psi builds to much, then come back on when it drops? I am thinking that if you have to much pressure you could push past the float valve. So should I be looking into getting a regulator? As for fuel pressure gauge, how do they do it other than having an electric sending unit? I can't imagine you put a T in your fuel line that goes to your gauge, if it is mechanical. I've never ran an elec. pump, so tell me all that you know. Thank you.

The general limit is 5-7 lbs of pressure with a carb to keep from blowing the needle of the seat...that would work fine for the 230.

If you use a pump with more pressure, you need a regulator....can also add a return line to the tank for the excess.

I have hooked up a 12 volt Mr. Gasket one from Advanced Auto Parts...$36.00 out the door, works great. I used no regulator either...you dont need one. There are two Mr. Gasket ones - one red one and one blue one, the blue one is the one I went for - made for six and eight cylinder vehicles. The red one was made for 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders...go blue...its rated at 5-7 psi.

Most fuel psi gauges have a line just like an oil psi gauge. You can buy T fittings at most auto parts stores to put into the metal or rubber fuel lines.

You are not supposed to run fuel all the way to the gauge inside your vehicle. Most fuel psi gauges say to mount them outside the cockpit. I have a 15 year old Auto Meter fuel psi gauge in my M715 dash panel and really like being able to see exactly what I am running at all times. Little things like waiting for the pressure to build before I try starting in the mornings. Looking at the gauge to see if a stumble with the engine is fuel related. Noticing the gauge goes to 0 pulling another M715 up long inclines at speed but the engine never slowed down started me looking at fuel filters. I found the one I installed between the tank and my rear mounted pump was getting pretty full of crud. I have mine inside the truck and don't worry about it. You might feel different. Do what you are comfortable with.

I would also suggest you mount the pump near the tank. Many of us had pumps mounted near the stock fuel pump and vapor lock was a problem in the summer. I bolted mine to the back of the under bed storage box a few years ago and have had no troubles.

By the way, I am running the Carter 12V pump Summit sells. 5-7 psi. I got it 12 years ago for $45. I have no clue what they are now.

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Originally Posted by Barrman

Little things like waiting for the pressure to build before I try starting in the mornings. Looking at the gauge to see if a stumble with the engine is fuel related. Noticing the gauge goes to 0 pulling another M715 up long inclines at speed but the engine never slowed down started me looking at fuel filters.

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Yup, thats exactly why I would like to install a gauge while I'm installing the fuel pump. I don't think you can have enough gauges. :D I don't mind installing the gauge in the cockpit and running a line to it, I just wanted to see if that was a generally accepted way of doing it or not. Thanks for the info., I'll look for a 5-7 psi rated pump and I'll be mounting it back close to the tank.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Price has went up though, $72 for that one.
Good pumps though.
If you want to do even better against stuff like vapor lock, get a higher pressure pump and run a regulator near the carb and route a return back to the tank.

Oh, the fuel pressure gauge isolators are nice, but spendy!
I have one for my autometer gauge, but it didn't cost THIS much when I bought it!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku