shackle flip questions .... need answers asap

i'm doing my rear shackle flip and i have somes questions because it ain't working like it supposed to ...

1- I have drilled the 4 3/8 rivets that retain the front hanger; but how do you fliped it ... it's not even moving ... does it weled from the inside ??

2- Axle problem ... i'm swaping a srw 14bolts ... with rear disk brake conversion .. is that normal that i will be able to bolt everything but due to the width of the stock leaves i will not be able to install my rear caliper ... does i really need to relocated the leaves under the frame ?

3- If i need to relocated the springs .... does anybody already done it ?? I need ideas hoe to mount the front hanger !!

Thanks ....

1. There is a weld on the back of the pin in the frame. Until you get that ground or drilled enough to let go, it will be stuck.

2. The calipers have been hung upside down on the rear axle in order to get clearance...I know there was a trick to bleeding them but I cant remember what it was.

3. You dont have to relocate the springs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brute4c

The calipers have been hung upside down on the rear axle in order to get clearance...I know there was a trick to bleeding them but I cant remember what it was.

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Probably one of several things: either use a vacuum bleeder, a pressure bleeder or use an fluid injector to force the fluid back in to the caliper forcing the air out the master cylinder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brute4c

1. There is a weld on the back of the pin in the frame. Until you get that ground or drilled enough to let go, it will be stuck.

2. The calipers have been hung upside down on the rear axle in order to get clearance...I know there was a trick to bleeding them but I cant remember what it was.

3. You dont have to relocate the springs.

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1- OK so i will need to drop the tank on the driver side ........:mad: is from the inside of the frame ; i need to grind all the weld around the pin ??

2- will do this way .... will find something for bleeding ....

3- OUF ....

doen anybody have a pic of where to grind exactly or what the parts look like when renoved from the truck .... this will give a good idea !!

Thanks

The location where back of the pin is on the inside of the frame has a small hole in the frame and the weld is in there...I would have to look again but it may be inside a webbing piece too...can be gotten to though...I took a pic for someone once of this weld...

If I remember right, the bleeder ends up on the bottom of the caliper instead of the top, high point...I sorta recall bleeding them upright and then inverting...maybe? Gotta get that trapped bubble outta there.

Yes, you could gravity bleed them in their regular orientation, then install them upside down.

It actually may not be terribly hard to redrill and install a bleeder screw on top. Some years back United (NAPA) used to sell bleeder screw repair kits for broken or stripped bleeder screws which had an insert that already had the seat for the bleeder screw in it, and was threaded on the outside. It came with an appropriate tap, and installation tool. I used them before to add a bleeder screw to some master cylinders, and other places where a screw wasn't originally used.

I have a foggy recollection that was mentioned...

thanks for the reply about the caliper !!!

I'm still just not sure for the pin to grind ....

The frame ha a hole about the size of a pencil on the back side. The pin does not come through the frame but sits against the outside rail. The weld is in the hole in the frame.

I'm going off my memory, scary! OK what I did was drop tank, look at the inside frame side of hanger, there is a protruding stamped piece with a weld all around the 1" rod that goes all the way from the outside of the spring with the threads to the back side to the end of that stamped bulbous piece. Take a 4" grinder and grind around the weld of the 1" rod till you have a pretty good guide to use hole saw without the pilot bit. This will cut the rest of the weld without loosing any of the length of the rod (for future welding in new location). Remove bulbous stamped piece (after rivits are removed) then you eill discover a 1?8" plate with two vertical welds holding it on to the frame, carefully take same grinder to those welds. Remove that plate, at this point everything will be off the frame. Flip that plate around and insert two bolts. Mark where the big hole goes and get that hole in frame. Then re-install everything flipped. I remember trimming the bulbous stamped piece to clear something, I think it will be appearant when your there. Get two bolts in and tight and match ream the holes. Bolt those in and youre good there. Lastly re weld the end of the boulbous stamped piece back to the 1" rod.

Thanks Saxon. I just looked at it once...you have done it...big difference!

So here's some pictures about those hangers ......

http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...ackleflip1.JPG

http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...ackleflip2.JPG

http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...ackleflip3.JPG

http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...ackleflip4.JPG

Sorry for the last one .... i relocated the hanger upside down and then center my punch, use a 1.125 hole saw and BANG ... just it it was made to be like that from factory .... nothing more to grind .... those holes aligned ... i just need 8 new screws to bolt them , then the truck is going under his new diff.

http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...ackleflip7.JPG

sorry wrong picture

im too lazy to read, so ill just tell you what i did...
1. cut the rivits
2. cut the welds on the back of the pin (tortch is easy)
3. take off the plate on the back side, it might be kind of difficult.
4. now you can take out the rest of the hanger...


when the whole assembaly is off the frame, theirs going to be two holes that are under the plate, one is where the pin origanaly went through, so your going to need drill out the bottom hole bigger so the pin will fit...

now once the pin will fit, the original bolt hole will lign up, bolt it in with the other plate on the back side of the frame.

now if you can, weld the pin to the back plate.

when i had done mine, i couldnt get the pin through the frame because when i went to cut the back plate from the pin, it was too big for the hole, so the only way to get it out was to cut the pin a inch shorter, so i cut the pin...
then when i put it all back together i slid some tubing over the pin, which was good because it alowed me to put a good weld on the backplate and pin.