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When i received my M715 , the only part left from the hood blackout was the base plate. I found a complete assembly .... but cannot find any wire under hood .... it must have been cut ... but where originally that wire come from ?? Any pic ?? i have searched but never found any cut wire or loose wire at all !
Thanks for the help !!
It is wire #19 which come directly from the back of the 3 lever. Pin D is what it is on the back of the 3 lever. The wire should run through your firewall with the rest of the wires between the master cylinder and the drivers hood hinge.
thanks .... surely cut under the dash because i found nothing loose or cut under engine compartiment !!
Look right next to the engine firewall where the big wire bundle comes thru. you may find a piece of the wire left. That is where the PO had cut mine, along with the brake light wire.
On my '68 there is the big bundle,a split with a two wire brake bundle and a single BO light wire.
I will take a picture this afternoon and post it.
Wart Hog
Here is a picture of my '68. It has the new blinker box.
I labeled the wires If you zoom in you can read it.
At least the PO (Federal Forest dept) left a little piece of wire that I can crimp to.
Wart Hog
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ireharness.jpg
I bought a new BO bulb for my hood mounted light and plugged it in today and got nothing. There are two plugs one plugs into the mount, ground I'm assuming and one plugs into the hood wireing.
Is there a trick to get it to work? I tried it in BO drive and BO park modes.
the B O bulb should have one rubber connector on the back , If yours has two then its the wrong BO light. never mind i was think of the complete assy,
The BO light has two wires that connect one that pushes into a socket on the body of the light and one that runs out the back and connects to the hood wireing.
position the top lever of the 3 lever light switch to the extreme left hand position and you should have power to the BO light on the hood.
tired that and no go......I wonder if its the bulb or the wireing? The switch is new and it works all the rest f the BO lights. The old lightbulb was in bad shape the housing was rusted out.
Did you bench-test the BO light? That is, run the ground wire to battery - and the power wire to battery +, at 24V, and see if it lit up? Start there and work your way back.
Can I test the wireing at the light end with a test light?
Only reason is I put the light in and had to put the rubber boot on the new bulb which was a to do.
Make sure the ground wire has continuity to ground and that the power wire has battery voltage....let us know what you find.
Yeah, to test it, I would leave the light as a complete, ready-to-mount unit, and touch the base to ground (or -) and jumper some + mojo to the power wire coming out the back of it.
Thanks guys as soon as it stops raining here in Pittsburgh I'll get out and check it. I think the easiest way will be a checklight to the hood power source.
Use a test light to make sure the power is getting to the light.
The big bolt at the bottom of the light has to conduct the ground to the base. Then, one of the four bolts on the base has to continue the ground to the hood. Then, one of the four hood bolts has to conduct the ground to the hinges. Then, one of the six hinge bolts has to conduct the ground to the body. Hopefully, your body has the ground strap connecting it to the frame. "Check your grounds" is a very popular phrase when working on MV electrical systems. So, Check your grounds!
The above applies if you are getting power to the light itself. If you are not, then start tracing the wire back to the 3 lever switch. I have had several 3 lever switches that work perfect on every available option except power to the b/o spot light. So, if you don't have power to the light and can't find anything wrong tracing it back. Go to the online manual link at the top, find and print the M715 lighting diagram out. That shows what each pin on the back of the 3 lever goes to. Pull your 3 lever and try hot wiring it to make sure it is actually turning the light on. This can be done using a regular 12V battery charger, DVOM lead and a test light. No reason to shock yourself with 24V if you can avoid it.
OK I found the problem..the black out light wireing was cut at the hood. I checked where the previous picture showed the wire coming out of the main harness and I foun that there was a male conector on the end instead of a female one. Now why someone cut the stock wire and took the female end off and wired it to a male end is beyound me. I'm going to stetch the wire out and see if I have enought to reach the hood gromet then try and splice the old female end and the power wire back together.
I spliced the wires together and my BO light works great....I'm going to solder them and shrink wrap it as soon as I get some free time.