Replace with bolts and remove studs???

Lockout Hubs

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Scott,
I have done both installs.
The Front
If all the nuts are off the studs, the hub plate should come off. You are going to have to replace the studs with bolts, so go ahead and pull the studs out now. Then, a "light" tap with a hammer sideways will release the gasket holding the plate on. Clean everything real well and just use RTV instead of the new paper gasket that came with the Selectro hubs. I also found it very helpfull to run a tap through each of the stud holes before I screwed new grade 8 bolts in.
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I posted this to an old thread but have become very concerned
I ordered my Hubs today from Bob and the quote above says I have to remove all the studs and replace them with Bolts, anyone know if this is true?

You can leave the studs or pull them and use bolts.

If you leave the studs, the knob on the hub is harder to turn as the studs are in the way of getting a geat grip...you can get a finger/fingernail between a stud and the knob...I know...I left the studs. You can get a decent grip, you just have to be careful.



I found a couple shots...these are from right after my brakes caught fire while flat towing so disregard the peeling paint and discoloration....

You can see the short studs arent too bad, but the long ones, the ones that the towing hub is mounted on, are getting out to the end of the Selectro.

http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/selectro1.jpg

http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/selectro2.jpg

Whew...........
I can see that it might be a finger ripper alright............
Now do I attempt to get the studs out or not...
I'll bet trying to get those studs out after 40 years is a bugger
Thanks for the explanation and for the pictures ...... it's worth a thousand words....

Studs can be easy or they can be hard...never know...

Double nut one and try....

No sweat on the pics...unfortunately I had them around...unfortunately because I had a fire that caused me to take them all...

A stud puller is a real help here. Most tool companies offer two different kinds. A 3 gear type thing that goes over the stud and a style that has what looks like a socket with a hole in the side. A knurled thing is stuffed through the hole and wedged between the socket and the stud.

Both actually work pretty good. I like the 3 gear style better myself. My studs came out pretty easy. But, I did have to run a tap through each hole before a bolt would go in happily.

I've been looking at the stud removal tools and both types seem to ruin the stud upon removal, destroying the threads, is this true?
So the stud cannot be reinserted should the 6th or seventh one not want to come out?

I think the double nut method might be a safer approach ....as I have found so far......... everything I try to do there is "always" one of something that breaks or refuses to budge. But I like the challenge

I replaced my studs with bolts as well. Bought a stud puller set, the 3 gear type, and it worked really well. I only had slight trouble with 1 stud out of all of them. I believe I read somewhere that said that the female threads in the axle are slightly undersize. This is so the stud is really tight into the axle and when you try to remove the nut on the outside, the nut will come out and not the nut and the stud out of the axle. This makes sense, and it would be a good idea to run a tap through them a bit to make it easier to install the bolts.

EDIT: Upon seeing your new post Viperman, I want to say that the stud removal tool I had, had 3 cylinders inside the tool that grabbed onto the stud threads, they didn't hurt the threads at all. It was surprising just how little force was needed to pull the stud out, you just needed something to grab onto the stud well.

Is the three wheel type a "sears" type tool or am I gonna spend half the price of the hubs getting one of these from a specialty shop

I got mine at NAPA, I can't remember how much it was, but I recall it not being horrendously expensive. It came as a set of 4 tools for different size studs. As with most "NAPA" brand stuff, I wasn't exactly impressed with the quality of it, but it did a fine job so I'm not complaining.

Looks like Sears has em and a few other places.
Now all I hope is it's not left hand threads :-)

Standard thread...no left hand threads on these.

also if you have access to a welder, you can just weld the nuts to the stud by taking and backing the nut until the stud is just under an 1/8 inside the top of the nut and welding the top part of the nut to stud if you dont plan on keeping the nuts and studs for later use and using a ratchet or impact to pull them out