ha, hey how do i get the timing right on the injecter pump? thanks guys. hopefully it will run now
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ha, hey how do i get the timing right on the injecter pump? thanks guys. hopefully it will run now
Go to your local auto parts store and by a Hanes manual for a 1986 Chevy truck. Don't get a Chiltons, they are junk. Make sure the manual covers the 6.2.
If you don't want to do that, go over to Steel Soldiers and look in their TM section. The -30 or maybe even the -20 on the CUCV will have the procedure stepped out so an 8th grader can figure it out.
It's sort of tricky. You want to make sure the timing chain hasn't jumped, then line up the marks on the gears with the marks on the pump, then push it in place during a solar eclipse, and she should fire right up.
oh. ha lol, so it has markings on it i guess. all right, ill try and get it running tomarrow, our powers out at our shop from the storm, so i couldent do anything today
There are marks on the top of timing chain cover were pump bolts up. Line up mark on top of pump housing to center mark on T.C. cover. The other marks on T.C cover are to make adjustments if there is slack in the chain. These marks are useful when engine smokes when cold. If there is a smoke problem, make sure the cold advance on pump is working, if so you can [looking from rear of engine] move the pump to the left. This usually compensates for the slack in chain and clears up the smoke.
I thought I'd heard that it was only possible when all 9 planets were aligned.....Quote:
Originally Posted by poolmike
ok, sweet. i changed it out, my motor dosent have a chain its all gear driven. im not shure if its going to fire, im going to try it out tomarrow.
i found out that my motor is a 6.2 J series crate motor. which is cool i guess becouse it dosent have a erg valve, and it suposed to have more power. but ya, it still dosent run:lol:
If this is the first time for this engine to run, take your time starting it. First bleed all the air out of fuel filter, crack the lines loose at the injectors and crank engine until fuel comes out of lines. Close the lines and crank it , this may take a little time. Just don't overheat the starter. Crank a little, then let starter cool off for a couple of minutes between cranks.
ok, no this motor i think has been ran before. http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/100_2815.jpg
im going to have to bleed all the lines though anyway becouse i put a new injecter pump on it. but i ran into another problem. i have the motor on the stand, and it wont pick up any fuel. i have the hoses going to the water seperator off, and the macanical pump isnt getting the fuel through the lines, i might try a electric fuel pum so i can get it started.
Water seperator disconnected is fine, probably like you said, failed primary fuel pump. Electric will work just fine. I hope that's not a can of starting fluid on the fender, these engine do no like that.
Looks like WD-40 to me.
Can you fill the pump body with fuel to prime the pump? A dry lift pump won't do a whole lot.
Chris
no, its wd40. i heared not to use starting fluid, use wd40 on these. so thats what we used, we also heard about ATF. but that didnt work.
ya i was trying that as well, i put some fuel down the hose, and cranked it over, but it didnt work out, it worked good before, but idk. probly couldent get it to turn over fast enough
I've been told to use ATF to prime the pump, WD-40 as starting fluid. Can you remove the fuel return fitting and pour fuel in there until you know it's full?
Chris
ya, i think i can. its the hose fitting on top of the injecter pump right?
Dunno, I'm not terribly familiar with stanadyne pumps. It's the one that's not the fuel inlet. I just saw one on ebay, looks like return might be a nipple at the top of the pump.
Chris
I'm sure you already know this, but I thought I'd put it out there. A 6.2 will not start if the glow plugs aren't working. Of course you don't have to worry about that until the fuel delivery gets taken care of.
Good luck!
ya, speaking of glow plugs, i hooked them up becouse i was going to fire it up....just my luck they all went out....at the same time. i had them hooked up for umm maby at the most 8 seconds, turned over the motor, nothing, so i let it sit for a sec, go to hit the glow plugs, and nada. nothing, pulled one out, hooked it up, set it on the battery's ground, and it still wouldent turn on, so now i need to get a new set of glow plugs
ok, so check it out...so far ive had to replace
1. injecter pump
1. primary fuel pump
8. glow plugs
Make sure the controller for glow plugs is cycling correctly. Since all of the glow plugs went out, possible the controller was staying on too long and burnt them out.
i got rid of the controler, becouse i hooked it up, and found out the only wawy for it to work is to touch two wires to the positive, but it would keep cycling, and wouldent turn on right away once you un hooked the power. i still have the controller, do you know how to hook them up the right way? i was trying everything for a good 3 hours. i had the ground hooked up, the pink wire and yellow were the ones i had to put on the positive, and i had one wire left over and i have now clue where it goes.
so i just bypassed the controller, and within 8 seconds they were shot, and most people are saying hook them up for 10 to 15 seconds.
check out the dieselpage.com for 6.2 tips and info
i ended up buying a diesel repair manual for the 6.2 today, and it has everything, and a wiring diagram for the glow plugs.....so if you guys need some help let me know and ill try and scan the pages
When you buy new glow plugs get the 60G glow plugs, they are self regulating. The old styles burn themselves out if the glow plug regulator is not working properly. I hooked my glowplugs (60Gs) directly through a continous duty (Ford starter) solenoid and have a push button in the cab to control the solenoid. This has worked well for me for over a year. I use a chevy camero electric fuel pump mounted on the frame rail back by the fuel tank switch valve. This is great when you change filters because all you have to do is turn on the key to fill the filters. I have a friend that has a transmission shop and get the used transmission oil and mix it with kero or diesel fuel (which ever is cheaper) about 60% trans fluid 40% diesel in the summertime and more diesel in the winter and save a bunch on fuel. I will be installing injevtion line heaters and a dual fuel system so I can run straight trans fluid fuel once the engine is warmed up. Foodstamp if you want some more details email me and I will send you my phone# and we can talk.
wow, thats crazy. im having a hard enough time trying to just get it to start ha, so idont know if im going to go that rout. thanks for the glow plug tip.
Pink wire goes to the injector pump. It needs to stay on the entire time you are starting or running the engine. It's purpose is to open the fuel valve inside the injector pump to allow fuel to flow. It is also the only way to stop the engine once you get it running. Turn this on before you try anything else and leave it on while you are trying successive start attempts.
It will not start if there is too much air in the injector lines. Prime every line you can get to. If you have access to an electric fuel pump, you can use it to supply fuel pressue to the injector pump if you are having trouble getting the mechanical pump to do it's job, although remember it's primary job is a lift pump and is only used to lift fuel up to the injector pump where most of the work will be done. Then one at a time, loosen a connection where the injector lines connect to each injector and crank over the motor while allowing the air and eventually fuel to squirt out the fitting. Retighten each fitting and then repeat this air purge for each injector. This activiaty will take a lot of battery, you may want to remove the glowplugs to relieve compression while cranking it over to prime it.
To bypass the glow plug controller, just use the solenoid it came with or use your own starter solenoid as a relay and connect all the glow plug wires through it. Activate the glowplugs for about 7 seconds before turning over the engine, then relase the glow plug switch and crank it over. If it doesn't start, wait a few seconds, and then turn on the glowplugs again for 7 seconds and try again. Your old origianl glowplugs may actually burn hotter then the new self regulating kind, but beware as running them longer then 10 seconds or so at a time could burn them out.
When you finally get it primed and running, remember this experience, as you will have to repeat the entire process if you ever completely run your truck out of fuel again in the future.
Hope this helps.
Rollie
ya, thanks bud...im at the point now to where it is spitting out very little fuel out of the number 8 injecter line. once i get my other truck out of the shop ill finish up on installing the 6.2...this weekend i had made some mounts, and shes up in the truck on her own weight, fills it up nice...
ok, i think im going to try and get the glow plug controler to work right, now that i have a wiring diagram....yet is still dosent have the injecter pump wiring. mine has the pink wire and a green wire that branches out to some acuater on the throttle.
thanks alot guys
Hey this is teds son nick the 6.2 injection pump is not as scary as people may think. the engine should have a timing chain that drives the gear the attaches too the pump if i remember correctly you cant see it unless you remove the front cover. i work at a gm dealer i dont get the 6.2 much anymore but i deal with the 6.5s all the time and some even with a mechanical pump. these engines do not like starting fluid at all. If you get the engine spinning at the proper speed it should run off of wd40 it may take 2 cans at the same time but it should at least do something. like someone else said you have to make sure all the wires on the pump are hooked up. if the engine is smoking while you are cranking then you might wanna check the glow plug system. the easiest way to check them is the hook a test light up to the positive side of the battery and unhook all the wires from the glow plugs. then simply just touch each one. if the test light lights then it is a good glow plug if it doesnt then it is bad. If you have any more problems message my dad back and i will do my best to help.
there should also be a timing mark on top of the front cover where the pump and the cover meet. these are good engines and i dont see them go bad often unless they are not taken care of properly. like i said these engines are not as bad as people make them out to be you just have to understand how they work then they are a piece of cake to work on
thanks nick
so both pink and green wires need to be hooked up, i heard 2 things for the green, high speed something and what not...and something to do with the low idle...i dont really know what its for ha... my motor must be different becouse im not shure it has a timing chane, it looks like i have 3 gears, on is on the crank, then to the cam, and pump....nont positive, i havent pulled it all apart yet.
so is their a way to make shure my pump works, should i just keep trying to bleed it and hope it works, or is their some little trick??
I don't remember exactly, but it seems to me the green wire when energized will make it idle faster and possibly retard the timing a little. It usually ties into a separate temperature switch such that when it is cold as during an inital startup, it is energized. During this time, the engine will clatter more loudly and idle faster. After it warms up, it will turn off this circuit and run much quieter and idle slower.
I've seen some people connect a toggle switch to this same wire, to force the engine to idle faster when using it for electric winching or battery jumping to help keep the alternator turning up faster.
I kinda like that loud clattering sound while it's cold, because it lets people know it is really a diesel.
As for the timing gears you may have what appears to be a common aftermarket add on, but not a factory installed item.
hmm...it might be, not shure though it was a old farm truck that waas beat, so they most likley had no intention into building a high hp motor... i do know its a crate motor j block. so it has no EGR valve.
for the green wire, i think your right becouse the wire goes to the injecter pump, then to a accuater on the throttle linkage...
hey how should i mount my batterys? i was thinking that i could make a tool box, and put them inside that...
i heard that when batterys are charging they admit a gas, so not shure if i want to put them in the cab, and i really dont want to hack up my fender wells....so if i use the right guage wire do you think i can get away with mounting them in the bed?? i need to finish installing this motor so i can start working on it again
on more question, what should the compression be at, i found a brand new MAC diesel compression tester, with a gm style hook up
Like previously mentioned , the pink wire goes to the fuel solenoid on pump. The 2 green wires, one will go to the fast idle solenoid on injector pump linkage, the other to terminal by the pink wire, this one is for cold starts and bumps up the timing. The cold start switch that green wire power runs through is on the rear of r/s cylinder head next to exhaust manifold.
ok...hey when i turn over this motor, fuel comes out of the top of the iinjecter pump housing through the over flow, is it normal for it to be dumping out alot of fuel? or is it just becouse my pump probly isnt bled all the way?
hey guys, so i have it wired up so i can start it. and i have new glow plugs....and no suprise it still wont run, im prety much giving up hope on this. i dont get it, i keep trying to bleed the system, and turning it over, but nothing. ill crack the lines once in a while, and air and fuel will squirt out, but heres where it starts to not make sence... it will turn over, puff white smoke, almosed fire, enough to where its blowing black smoke, and stop....then when i got under the truck, i moved one of the exhaust pipe, and some raw diesel pored out of the pipe....so some how its not burning, or something.....i dont know what the deal is
i did a compression test...
#2,4,8 have 500 psi
#6 has 550 psi (im guessing maby oil/wd40 in cyl)
#1,3,5,7 have 500 psi
no clue if thats good or not