3-lever switch

:eek:This is kinda stock and modified tech... I wired my 3 level switch to work with a aftermarket harness. It was working great and all the positions work as they should except BO (not installed my were crusty inside). I have been driving it a few days regular since I got the wiring finished and shocks installed. Wife decided to go with me tonight to tractor supply and on the way home the lights... all the lights.. went out. I have had the same thing happen when the truck was stock and I just figured it was the supper crappy wiring and the fire dept blending the 12 and 24v systems... With this new development I am guessing it is the switch. After turning it off and on twice they came back on. I was wondering if there is a new version or model of the switch that I can get to replace mine. I am not too interested in NOS (being 40 years new) and having the same issue. If thats the only way to go I might have to get a headlight switch. I did spend a pretty decent amount of time getting it rigged to work though and would like to use the stock one. Just can't have the lights going out and the wife freaking out...:eek:

New manufacture switches are available. I doubt you would find a NOS switch. About fifty dollars will you get you a new one. There is a push button version available ,but they are pricey, and some guys don't speak too highly of them. DJ

The most likely problem is that something metal inside the switch is loose enough to touch something with power and is tripping the internal circuit breaker. I have had this exact thing happen. Mine, it wa the metal rod that runs from the unlock lever up to the top of the switch inside...it got loose and, depending on how it was in there, it might or might not touch a live wire connection...the lights would all go out...after the rod moved off the connection with power about 10 seconds or so after, a click in the switch told me that the internal circuit breaker had reset.


New switches can be had from many surplus dealers and are often on Ebay...there is one now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/MILITARY-VEHICLE...QQcmdZViewItem

Does your "Lock" lever actually lock the top lever from moving anywhere but BO from off? If not, then you for sure have parts floating around in there.

I went through 3 or 4 used switches last summer until I found one that worked in all postions and let me have brake lights too. Get a new one if you need to replace it.

mine is toast too...the locking lever broke....enough to were i can put the shaft out....and when i took it apart, looks like some one welded a spring to that locking bar, and things were arcing out, but i took all that stuff out and hopefuly it might work.

Locking level works but there very well could be stuff floating around in it. I might try and take it apart and see if I can figure out what is messed up inside it. It didn't do it till I was about 1/2 a mile from the house so I was lucky.

Are you 12 volt now? Does anyone know the amp rating of the internal breaker? When we "rearanged" the wiring in Joe/IA's truck back in the 90's it had the same problem. I assumed that going to 12 volt doubled the amperage load on the light switch possibly overloading it. I just changed it so the light switch was used to operate a relay that powered the headlights, no problems since.

Wow...theres a good bit of info...never thought from that angle.

Does anyone have a switch apart to see if the circuit breaker has the load rating on it?

I am 12 volt now.. Hmm does anyone have one apart before I rip mine open? Might have to get you to school me on the relay and how to wire it in. I am good at following directions and can figure out a pin out or schem but no idea what a relay does...

In this case anyway, a relay is a device that is used for switching higher amperage loads, taking the load off of whatever is controlling the relay (example- another switch, computer). You can probably find one that will work at any parts store that sells add on fog lights, $5-$10 I'm guessing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...lax/Relay2.jpg

The 1952 dated manual I have for my M35's tells you how to take the 3 lever apart and repair it.

I have tried on a few of them and just get a contact and spring explosion when I finally get the rubber plug to release the pins and let the case come apart. The relay would be a great addition to a NEW 3 lever.

The 3 lever was introduced in 1950 w the new standardized M-series vehicles which required many common components (mostly electrical) to be used on any type m.v. such as the switches, gauge panels, alternators, wiring codes etc. The first yr. the switch actually had 2 connectors on the back, one for vehicle lights an a seperate one for the trailer harness to the plug in back, these are exceedingly rare now since most were replaced w/ the single plug design when they failed .around the mid 70's w/ the contract for the dodge M-880's in an attempt to save money the standazation program was opted out. although it was continued in the larger trucks the m-880's and m-1008 cucv's used almost none of the common m-series components.In 1980 with the design of the humvee some of those common parts returned including the 3 lever switch which was redesigned internally for the first time, it even felt different in operation from the first design. Then around the turn of the century a complete redesign took place agian introducing a modern electronic touch pad design switch.