How get into front Hubs and Pull rear Diff?

I purchased some Selectro Lock-Outs for the front axle. I put my truck up, pulled the 6 bolts/nuts on the front hubs and still can't get into them. Can't pry it open or knock it open.


I gota rear locker so Im tring to install it. I pulled the axle shafts out of each side. (Those cone shaped things on the hub studs are terrible) I opened the rear cover, unbolted/removed the bearing retainers, Unbolted the rear driveshaft and pulled the yoke.

I cant get the carrier out, I slam the pinion with a dead blow and its gets a little looser but I can't pull it out. Is there a special puller to pull this out? I think it just behing held in there with a press fit on the bearings.

Any help would be great?
I already gota 4 lb dead blow so the bigger hammer approach has been addressed. Id take a picture to clarify but it ended up in the lake last week.

Thanks,
Scott

Scott,

I have done both installs.

The Front

If all the nuts are off the studs, the hub plate should come off. You are going to have to replace the studs with bolts, so go ahead and pull the studs out now. Then, a "light" tap with a hammer sideways will release the gasket holding the plate on. Clean everything real well and just use RTV instead of the new paper gasket that came with the Selectro hubs. I also found it very helpfull to run a tap through each of the stud holes before I screwed new grade 8 bolts in.

The Rear

The conical shaped locators on the outer flanges will pop out if a good solid hammer blow is made to the middle of the flange. You got them out though.

Once you have the axle shafts pulled and the carrier bearing caps off, the manual says to use a case spreader. Notice those big circular indentions on each side of the diff housing? That is where the spreader goes. I looked into buying one and the cheapest I found was $355.

Your next best option and what many if not most of us here have done is use a pry bar. With the pinion held still (transmission in gear, e-brake on, big pipe wrench against the ground) gently pry on the teeth of the ring gear. It will walk its way out. Be ready to catch it. It is a lot heavier than you think it will be. Use the same bearings and caps on each side going back together. Walk the ring gear back in with just your hands. If you are using the stock bearing cap bolts, don't torque them to more than 80-85. They stretch. Mine are at 85 and have survived behind my big block for 3 years now.

Enjoy the ability to "throttle steer" your truck when you are done. The lower the air pressure, the more you can do it.

I pulled my rear carrier out a while back. It was stuck in there, but I easily got it out by walking it with a pry bar gently. Stack some wood blocks up or something for the carrier to roll onto, that thing is HEAVY! I'm not joking, watch out.

No need to remove or unbolt the pinion. The carrier will come out. I tried to pry mine but it would not budge. Rapped a chain around it and “yanked” the chain slack to get it to come out. I used wood on the floor to keep the carrier from hitting the floor. Going back was a lot easier.

Mines comming out now, not all the way yet though. Pryed it out pretty much 1/2 way there with a pry bar and putting the pinion yoke back on. Still not comming all the way out I got some wood lined up for the moment. A storm rolled in so I'll be back at it tomorrow.

A little tip from past experience... loosen the bearing caps on both side of the case almost all the way out but leave them threaded in a couple of threads. jack the truck way up and use a long pry-bar in the window of the case where the spider gears are, do not pry on the gear teeth they can break.. pry hard, use your feet, I did!!, at least you wont have to worry about the case and ring gear falling out because the bearing caps will hold it in.

To get the carrier out, leaving the caps slightly on there is a good idea, as everyone pointed out, . it is very heavy, . .and those ring gear teeth are sharper than they look. A trick I used on my 44 in my CJ was to wrap a strong nylon strap around the carrier, then use a come-along and pull it toward the trailer hitch. A lot easier on parts, fingers, etc. and more controlled. good luck, . .

QUOTE:
Scott,
I have done both installs.

The Front

If all the nuts are off the studs, the hub plate should come off. You are going to have to replace the studs with bolts, so go ahead and pull the studs out now. Then, a "light" tap with a hammer sideways will release the gasket holding the plate on. Clean everything real well and just use RTV instead of the new paper gasket that came with the Selectro hubs. I also found it very helpfull to run a tap through each of the stud holes before I screwed new grade 8 bolts in.
QUOTE

I spoke with Bob today and ordered my Hubs and there was no mention of replacing all my "studs" with bolts?

Is this true?

http://m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?p=70296#post70296

To all those who have trouble pulling the carriers from any diff without a spreader.Pull the caps, Walk around the shop, grab about 3 of the cleanest shop rags, lay them together, and fold then into quarters, then jam them up in between the ring and pinion. Turn the yoke with a pipe wrench, and this will shove the case out the rear of the diff. I only have had to use this trick on ocassion, i usally can get the case out with pry bars. Use on top, and one bottom if you have to.

So many methods, good stuff. I usually use two prybars either side to side or top and bottom depending on the style of carrier, where I can grab an edge etc.
I like the semi bolted up caps for a one guy job idea. I have also tucked an object or tool under the fulcrum of a single prybar to give a bit of an angle to pry outward. Starting roughly at a 30 degree angle. You have more usable force this way. Two is better I think as the carrier will not roll to flatten out your pry angle. Remember if the carrier goes back in by hand seated home it is to loose.
You need preload on the bearings to keep the pattern or gear contact constant.