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I finally unboxed the Hydroboost I got from Chris. (Thanks again Chris!) We got it all cleaned up and now I am ready to collect the needed hoses before I start cutting holes. The only problem is that my class has gone all electronic. I have a few books left, but they are for older vehicles and don't contain Hydroboost info or pictures. I am looking for the hose routing diagram. I should have some books at home that show it, but thought I would post up about it know in case I don't.
Thanks.
I have that diagram, actually there's about 18 different configurations, but I am not near my shop book. :D
in the meantime I refer you www.google.com, which yields this excellent pic:
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/storyimages/Vanco8.jpg
Hey cool, who would have known a search of this internet thingy would have found what I was looking for. Thanks, while you are doing searches for me, what would you recomend for a cooler since the fluid will be doing double duty know?
Tim Weisenheimer-Barr. I didn't know Jennifer was German, that's cool. :D
A couple guys in UT are running fullsize GM's w/full hydro, and they are doing what I thought I would: running a B&M stacked-plate style tranny cooler, one of the smaller ones, on the return line. Seems to work well enough, no hard data though. ;)
I'd like to run a filter as well, but I haven't even looked into that beyond saying "I would like to run a filter on my hydro setup". A local guy is making me a sweet 1-of-3 brand new rear steer switch and he is thinking of incorporating a filter mount in it. :D :D
A bypass type coolant filter block would probably work real well for you. For that matter so would an actaull hydraulic fluid filter off heavy equipement.
I have one of those stacked plate style coolers from a Ford here in my class right now for another project. I will remember to mount it so normal road driving will not spray any water on it. You should remember that too. That instant cooling will cause the steering to lock up until the fluid warms up enough to flow again. Not handing when turning a corner in the rain.
I must not be very smart this morning because I can't connect the dots on the Jennifer was German joke. Help please.
I hyphenated your last name. Ergo, one of you must be named Weisenheimer, and since YOUR last name is Barr (not sure how slow you are this morning heheh), it must be here. Slowly moving towards the ever-decreasing "funny conclusion", Jennifer must be German, and you must be a wuss to take her last name at all.
Have some coffee! :D Now, what effect does this instant cooling have on tranny fluid, because I have always had my cooler mounted in the direct path of 75mph rain and suffered no ill effects. Actually, there is no water in UT. This is a moot discussion LOL. No, seriously, I've never heard of this before.
Thanks for clearing that up.
Mid '90's Ford Ranger trucks had a stack style power steering fluid cooler mounted on the side of the pump. If you were turning right and hit a puddle, the water would hit the cooler. The steering would lock up, the pump would cause the serpentine belt to slip, the alternator would stop giving you power and the engine would stumble. A driver could usually make the wheel move after a second or so and then after about 5-8 seconds everything would be normal again. I know this because I was foolish enough to buy a '94 Ranger for Jennifer way back when.
Ford never did a recall, but they did issue a TSB. Which basically said if you worked on one then you should add a shield between the cooler and the wheel well.
That was a case of fluid being flash cooled and then introduced into the pump a few inches away. I think just a foot of tubing between the cooler and the pump would make the problem non existant since the tubing would warm the fluid back up again. Maybe not much, but enough to prevent the problems.
So, when I mentioned above about keeping the cooler away from water I was actually telling you the short version of what I just wrote.
A grill mounted cooler for any component has the tubing to moderate any drastic temperature changes encounted due to rain or puddles. Most transmissions are designed to operate in the winter time. So, even though rain feels cold we all know it is warmer than 32 degrees. Some coolers also have thermostats in them as well which takes all the worry away.
That make sense?
Gotcha. I was having a hard time with the whole flow issue, but if the cooler was ON the pump, yeah that makes more sense. :D
Wouldn't cold fluid flow just like warm fluid, just slower?
I can start my power steering equipped vehicles at -40 F here in the great white north and drive away, there is no way the fluid is even above 0 F before I take off, yet my power steering still works. Not trying to be a clown, just curious.
It has been almost 20 years since I took a fluid dynamics class and I didn't get it all then. But, think about it this way.
A pump is pumping fluid. As the pump and fluid heat up,they expand together. If something causes the fluid to contract it will then cause the material around it to contract. If the closest thing is the pump itself, it might not be contracting evenly. Such as the housing closing in on the impeller blades until the blades shrink or the housing expands again.
You cold start example has everything equal to it's tightest tolerance and it was designed to work like that. I might be all wrong, but that is how I am wrapping my mind around it.
If the cooler was on the pump, the water may actually allowed the belt to slip on the pump drive belt, now that would cause an instant no steer situation like lock-up. Had it happen to me crossing a river, P.S. belt was just a bit too loose heck I dont think the belt even squealed in full lock, but when it got that supply of water on it my steering locked up, I was in a situation where thr wheels needed to be turned straight and they wouldnt move causing me to head for deeper water, had to sht down the motor for fear of hydro lock. Good thing my bud had his waders on he looped the strap onto my jeep as I was floating down stream and sinking. That was cold March/April snow run off water in da-up of Mich. that water was up over my lap.When they pulled me out I flipped my one piece cj-5 front end up, to check out the situation. The brand new b&b 360,s K&N foam pre filter had about 1.5" of water line all the way around it. Pullled th eair cleaner, and all was dry. That was a close call, but a good testament to the K&N oiled pre filter and inner K&N filter, no water penatration. Everything else was fine because of lots of silicone spray and remote breathers,K&N.
OK, Tim, I see how you are looking at this. That makes sense, just hard to believe that anything in a Ranger could have that tight of clearances!! Just kidding.
Dave
As I wrote, it has been years since I was in any engineering class of any kind and my theory is just a guess, not fact.
Hey, thanks for posting that about the water flash cooling. Makes perfect sense to me and yet another tidbit for future reference. If your Hydro routing is not all cleared up now, I have the whole system still connected at the house. I think lurking T's picture very well clarifies it though.
His picture answered all my questions.