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I am looking for some help with my spring over. I have a 68 m715 with dana 60 front axle. I have found new spring perches and u bolts. How can I keep my tie rod from hitting spings once they are moved. Does anyone make a piece to attach to the steerong arm to raise this up or do I have to fab it myself? Thanks.
Are you using the stock dana 60, or say a later model chev???
Once sprung over, all you need to do is run a taper bit from the top down, and get larger tapered tie rod ends. Napa has book, you will need to make the large end of the original tie rod to be the small end of the new. I think I have the boxes they came in still for part numbers. It's AM here I'll get the info after work. Later
In addition to what was already mentioned, my truck required the following modifications:
The front drive line needed to be lengthened. The new steeper front drive line angles were severe and needed a new CV drive line.
The transmission cross member needed to be modified to accommodate the front drive line.
The steering box needed a new drop arm to avoid bump steer.
Longer brake lines.
Lift blocks on the rear axle.
Thanks for the input. I am using the original Dana 60. Just to make sure I understand. After the springs are on top of the axle, I can still attach the tie rods to the steering arm, only I will attach them to the top instead of the bottom. Part numbers would be awsome. The other info is also good. Helps me remember additional stuff. Did anyone have to rotate the steering arms on the axles?
Some guys cut,flip and weld them back on, I personally would'nt reccomend that. Run a taper down on the top of the stock arms and with new ends, presto. I'll get you #'s, been swamped! Dan
You do not need to rotate the steering arms.
I recently acquired a 68 M-715 basketcase with a good body and am wondering how some of you have dealt with a GM Dana 60 springover axle swap. I took some quick measurements and the passenger side spring pad the is cast into the pumpkin seems to be in the wrong spot if I want the axle to be centered under the vehicle. Pictures would be good but even a description would help. Thanks
Dan, Thanks in advance for the numbers and guidance. The current set-up (very long front shackles) is really scarey. It was a previous owners attempt at a lift. I will feel much better/safer with the springs moved!
Thanks also to brute4c for the answer to the steering arm question.
Glenn, I have looked into the GM axle swap a bit. It's definately a better axle. Can be 35 splines as opposed to our 30 splines. Also the Knuckles are more durable. Swapping however seems pretty involved. Relocating spring pads, probably new gears and lockers, and the hardest is correcting all the steering stuff to match up with the GM axle. Then theres the issue of having a different bolt pattern between your front and rear axles. This is all doable but too complicated and expensive for me.
I already have the front axle and would change the rear to a 14 bolt. I am a mechanic so changing the gear ratio and alot of the other work that needs done is fairly cheap for me, at least labor, parts would still cost.
Saxon,
Any luck with those part numbers? I am eager to get started:p
Thanks
I hav'nt forgot you, The parts and taper are at another location, will be going there this evening. I'll post then, or proably next morning. Dan
Thanks again. I am really looking forward to having her back on the road.
Here ya go, NAPA #'s for the tie rod ends are 269-2032 & 269-2033, The 1-1/2" taper per foot reamer ball joint & tie rod taper reamer I got from XKUT Gary Forney (owner) super nice guy (717) 362-4181 You can google it also. And last is a dropped pitman arm for 78-79 ford (don't worry it fits) JC Whitney. Brand/ Rough Country #6602 Both the taper and the pitman arm are approx. $60.00 ea., I can't remember price on the ends. This simple task of finding this stuff took a long time, nice to save others the hastle. Have fun!
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/1219/0000220fu6.jpg
Dan,
Thank you again. I will be ordering these items and down to the Napa store today. You really have saved me a hassle and probably a lot of down time scurrying around looking for parts. Ill try and post pictures when done.
Dan,
One more question. Did you get rod ends for both the connecting red and tie rod (thus four rod ends total)?
You need three for sure, you could ream out the steering arm, but I dont see the need. Use a stock one there. Remember there's left, and right. Set the pinion angle to the t-case, that will dictate where the diff. is turned to, providing you took off all the junk and put the springs back to stock form.
Saxon, THANKS for that post and pic!!
No prob... Finding out about that taper put me through some changes, I,m just glad to be able to help out, sometimes geting info is like pulling teeth... Dan
Thats exactly why your post is so good!!
A little more info on the pinion angle.
When I welded the new spring perches on the top of the axle, I matched the angle of existing perch on the bottom of the axle to make them parallel. Use caution in changing this angle because it effects the steering characteristics of the axle.
When all was done, the U-joint was pointing directly at the T-case. However, the new U-joint angle at the transfer case was +/- 22 degrees which is pretty bad. This combination of the front U-joint flat and transfer case angled made the case for a double cardan CV drive shaft. Looks like this:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...t/degreecv.jpg
Here is a tech page:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html
hope it helps
These knuckles can stand to be rotated a few degrees actually. But yes, it does change the handling. Makes it a little harder to steer, but it will keep it driving down the road straight a bit easier (if I remember correctly).
Having the C/V at the tcase is actually a pretty nice thing to have.
More maintenance and cost to buy it, but it will handle lifting it much better if you change anything from here out, and it will also handle a good amount of flex.
I cut my perches off and welded them back on top. So I lost the ability to keep it at stock angles. So I took this route.
Btw, if you have the tools, doing the rear shackle flip and the spring mount flip isn't too bad/hard. Sure beats running blocks!
manul steer box, that pitaman arm didn't fit, is it power steering
Yes, sorry I did'nt add the fact that it was for the power steering gearbox, the manual box has a bigger splined shaft.
Resurrecting a really old thread...
Trying to figure out if the 1.5" taper is right for the STOCK tie rod ends. I ask because I am *not* doing a spring over (yet) but I changed out the steering box and the new pitman arm hole is too small for the stock end to fit in the stock configuration. Anyone know?
I suppose if I throw a caliper on there and take a few careful measurements I could probably figure it out but if someone has already done this start to finish I'd rather take their advice.
all i know is the drop pitman arm thats suggested sucks...... it cut your turning radius back alot ...so much id rather run the stock one..... thinking about fabing my own unless someone knows of a beter pitman arm upgrade
Yah, sorry about that dropped pitman arm sugg., I compiled that stuff and posted before install, I discovered the same thing once installed. It fits the box but isn't needed. Stock FSJ is best.
Update on my end of things: as far as I could find the 1.5" per foot taper in a #2 size (also known as a #2 balljoint reamer) should work for both the stock tie rod ends as well as the upgraded ones suggested elsewhere on this site.
For me, though, since I'm not doing the springover and didn't need to ream out more than just the pitman arm, it was cheaper to get a whole new steering box out of a '70 wagoneer. The pitman arm on that already has the right size hole for the stock end, + it is plenty long so no negative impact on turning radius.
Where did you buy the perches and u bolts from?
Fat Bob's has decent prices on ubolts
http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/categor...olkitScripts=1
And GreatLakes4x4 on perches
http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/GLO-...g-Perches.html