Considering the truck is 24 volt, can I used a normal timeing light on it. And how do you connect lead to coil?
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Considering the truck is 24 volt, can I used a normal timeing light on it. And how do you connect lead to coil?
Well...it can be done....
Item #1, you need a standard type spark plug and wire for the #1 cylinder. The plug you need is an Autolite #275 or equivalent. A standard wire will work if you take the cap end of the wire, strip it so the center conductor material is exposed for about ¼ to ½ inch...take the metal top off the ignitor unit...drop the cap from the bottom of that...stick the cap end of the wire through the lid and carefully seat it in the proper hole on the cap. If you arent careful, you can break the cap doing this and have to buy another one...
With the wire in, reassemble the cap to the lid and the lid to the ignitor housing.
An inductive timing light will want to hook to the #1 spark plug wire and to the positive and negative of a 12 volt power source. Some pull a car up close and hook to its battery to get that, others pull a battery from a 12 volt vehicle and use it...others tap off the one battery in the truck that has the ground wire running to the frame of the truck...not the one that has its positive going to the starter. All of these give 12 volts.
Then you are ready to go.
If you do have something that need to connect to the coil, you can take the lid off the ignitor and verify which wire is which...coil negative is the place to hook up a dwell tach for example. On the outside of the ignitor housing is a large hex plug, pretty much facing rear, that you need to remove. Run your test wire in through that opening and up to the top of the coil and then hook it to the verified correct terminal.
Spec is 5 degrees before TDC. You might want to clean the timing marks on damper before you begin....I like to make a nice thin line with liquid paper at the degree spec line...shows up good when timing.
I assume the reason for the standard plug wire is so you can place the inductive clamp over the wire? I guess the light can not pick up an indication of spark through the military metal plug wire jacket.
I am just a back yard mechanic so I may something that makes no sense at all, but if I do not ask and research I will never know more.
Yep, that is exactly why....guess that should have been noted...sorry...
Just got done timing my truck...seems like the throttle is a bit more snappy about 8-9 degrees of advance...anyone advance theirs a degree or two etc?
Two other options to use a 12V inductive timing light.
1. There is an adaptor made to use between the #1 sparkplug wire end and the cap. It allows a standard inductive pickup to be used.
2. If you have an old shielded spark plug wire, you can cut about 1" from the shielding (I used a dremel) and the core is a standard plug wire for which you can use the inductive pickup.
All you have to do is take the metal clip ends off of a long (non-shielded) spark plug wire and stuff it into both the cap and the plug. Just make sure the inner wire is intact and push it all the way in so it makes contact ant doesn't ground out.
Pull your wife's car up to the 715 and run the 12v leads to that battery. You can use your other vehicle, but using the wife's is more fun...
You have to set the idle to spec before you time it. Very important.
Turns out there was an old wire with the shielding cut off in a small section left in my truck when I bought it, I guess they used it for timing. I still can not free my distributor, I tried heating it up and was tapping with a hammer but does not seem to want to move.
There are two bolts on the keeper on the base of the distributor.
I only found one?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregolma715
Two bolts is news to me too. I only found one (only looked for one!) and, with a bit of coaxing, got the distributor to move.
There is a stud on the timing cover right next to where the ignitor goes in with a nut on it....the other is on the bottom of the ignitor itself...goes through the same plate that the stud on the timing cover goes through.
The stud has only a little bit of movement allowed for adjustment....the one on the bottom of the ignitor has many times the allowed amount for adjustment.
The ignitors do stick readily in the housing...you need to carefully heat and try to move the unit and repeat until it does...it will eventually but be carefull as the timing cover is aluminum and will melt if it gets too hot...I have done 2 of them...never any fun...
When you do get it loose, it is a great idea to pull the unit out clean the shaft and get rid of the corrrosion there and in the timing cover hole where it seats, then put on some anti-seize compound when you reinstall it.
When putting the ignitor back in, if you dont turn the shaft while it is out, you can look at the bottom end of the shaft and note that, even though it looks like a wide screwdriver tip, one end is thinner than the other....the gear it seats into inside the timing cover also is this way...so it only goes in one way...makes it easy...
To loosen the distributor to adjust the timing, there is only one bolt (#1). The text of the instructions agrees too.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/5...ributorgv7.jpg
Lets see if I have images of the 2 holddowns for adjustment....
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/fig2-33.jpg
Item 32 is the plate with the 2 adjustment areas on it.
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/timing_adjust.jpg
You can see better what to look for in this shot...
I know the tunep section only lists one...but I know there are 2....as shown in these illustrations....when I bought mne, the timing was roughly 50 degrees advanced...it took more than the little one on the timing cover stud to correct that....
Mine wouldn't move until I loosened the second bolt as well. I had to tap the housing a bit as well.
Heh, heh, heh.... It appears I'll have to look for a loose bolt on my truck, huh?! ;)
Thanks, guys....
I've had some problems adjusting the timing too. The engine hates me if I set it at the 5 degrees. It runs perfect at low and high RPM if I have it at 15 degrees with no problem. What causes this? Is the timing chain off by a tooth? or is my 715 just finickie?
Did you set the idle at the proper speed before you timed it? It's very important.
Idle is 600 RPM. Still no missing, backfire or rattling at high rpm. It runs quiet too. I live on a steep mountain side and it still goes up the hill with little effort. What else could cause this weird timiming? Burned out valves?