Finally got a set of tires cheap. Mounted on LAV rims.How hard are they to breakdown? Assuming rather difficult if hes in the tire business and did'nt want to dismount to ship.
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Finally got a set of tires cheap. Mounted on LAV rims.How hard are they to breakdown? Assuming rather difficult if hes in the tire business and did'nt want to dismount to ship.
By the time I did my 5th one, I was able to do it in less than 10 minutes. The 1st one took a little over an hour. I don't have time right now to find my pictures and write about it. DP did the definative write up on the subject anyway. I will try to find it in a few hours.
You need to build a compressor for the lock ring. Once you do that, they are easy.
I still think those rims would be useful for something. I'd like to grab a set sometime locally and see what I could come up with.
This should contain the info for the runflat removal:
http://m715zone.proboards102.com/ind...3700620&page=1
And this should be the rest of what you need from Kaiser715:
WARNING AND DISCLAIMER:
Before even thinking about doing this job, use a valve core tool to remove the valve core from each tire assembly. Wait until each tire is completely empty. Check it. Check it again. Air pressure behind the flange is what makes split rims fly apart. You don't want blood all over the inside of your shop, and it will be hard to do the rest of the tires one-armed. If you get lucky, you will bust your head open and not feel the pain. Leave out a couple of barf bags incase a new on the job paramedic hasn't seen a busted-wide open gourd with brains dripping out of it. Remember, if you hurt yourself doing this it's your own darn fault.
Here is the tool:
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/lav1.jpg
The tool is pretty heavy, more than required, but I had a bunch of 3x3x1/4 cutoffs as scrap.
The first tire I did with a ratchet, to go slow and easy, after that used air wrench, and it went pretty fast. those 2 straps that cross on the bottom side of the wheel are just 1/4" flat, with a nut welded to either end so they won't rotate and you don't have to put a wrench on the bottom side.
You have to mash the flange down about 1/4 to 3/8 inch, then the lock ring easily prys out:
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/lav2.jpg
After lockring is off, lift off the flange. they are to the left in this picture. Then you remove the gasket, you can see it partially lifted here. Start it up with a screwdriver, then it just pulls off:
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/lav3.jpg
Then you used a sledge to beat the rim out of the tire (it sticks on the runflat). I mixed some dish soap with water in a squirt bottle and wet it down before driving it apart.
Here you see the runflat in the tire. It is about 40# of solid rubber.
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/lav4.jpg
To remove the runflat, I used a ratchet strap to depress it, then sawzalled thru it, wrapped a strap around it, lifted on one cut end with the chainfall while I kept a foot on the tire, and it snaked out.
Somebody else posted a pic of using an engine hoist on an uncut runflat, with the XL up under the legs of the engine hoist. Looked to be faster and easier than the way I did it.
If anybody around NC needs to use my flange compressor, we can work it out.
Elwenil, I've got a set, So. Md. if you come this way sometime. Devildog took one to Bob C. he said they would make great boat anchor.
XLs are 95lbs a piece as they are. Still mounted and with the run-flats in them, they've got to be over 200lbs, eh? That's a lot of extra shipping charges for waste! Perhaps you would do better to pay him to dismount them first, as long as that turns out to be cheaper than shipping an extra 500lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by vrod02
Holy @#$%! That looks like a job. Many thanks for the great info.He shipped four tires on rims for 120 bucks.Paid 75 a piece. 4 free rims are in St. Louis,when I get them. Thanks again guys.
You did all right there, Vrod! :burnout:
70%ers. He's got 20 something more in this shape hundreds of 50 or less,cheaper.Talking about retreading some in the future.Retread not regroove.Hes in Al.For purists john Winslow has brand new ones for 200-250ea.Outta my range.I have both contact #'s for those interested.Cant wait to get dirty!!
Once you get the jig made to compress the ring it goes pretty quick.
I used 3" 'C' channel (bolted in the middle), to form a cross. drilled 1/2" holes in the ends of the 'C', used 4" bolts to press down the lock ring. I tried 1 bolt in the center to pull down the cross to press the 'lock ring' down, but found out the 4 bolts through the 'lug' holes works best. It only has to go down about 1/4". MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE CENTER OF THE VALVE, TO LET ALL THE AIR OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My,.02.
Vrod, I'm a newbie, looking for some 11.00 x 16's. Is that what these are? If so, could you share the contact info? Thanks.
Ya now problem P.m. me. Not going to disclose on the board.
Great info. Looks like a bit of work, but worth it.
When/if I get to that point I'll be in touch. Might even borrow your jig...LOL
You'll LOVE those XL's Rob! I think they (and their sisters, the XZLs) are the perfect tire for our trucks!
xdl?
Is that like the short-bus version of Michelin? OH WAIT! thats L.D.
Fixed it.
I'm too keen on my Springfield XD, I guess! ;)
Broke down, and mounted! I must say this the Lav's were less work than the split rings. Anywho thanks ALL for the heads up fellow zoners!Remember the "warning" threads newbies!
I'm sure you mean BIG sister, right Binford? XZL's are a lot more expensive/desireable than the XL's. For good reason, I'm sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Binford
Idont believe there any "bigger". more desirable for street use is what I'm thinkin.Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknessMonster
A pic mounted.:cool: Sorry Mods feel free to shrink!
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/381/36730089fb6.jpg
Not necessarily. I think most folks prefer the look of the XL over the XZL. At least I do. But that's nothing more than personal preference. I think the XZL has much to offer too, and are superior to XLs in some respects.Quote:
Originally Posted by MarknessMonster
:idea: take em to a truck tyre shop thats easyer....
I have XZL's on mine. Adam, Oilcan, has XL's on his. At the 2006 FE, he was able to go more places than me at road air pressures. Once I got all the way down to 15 from 70, I didn't notice any difference. The XL is best described as a "mud" tire while the XZL is the "all terrain" version. I have put about 3000 road miles on the XZL set now and can't see any signs of wear. Except for the little chunks that got ripped out trying to climbing the rock cliff just before the picture that showed Will's blue 715 on the temp site climbing it was taken.
Just to add to barrman's post, I never dropped my XL's below 30 psi at the FE. 10 or 15 would have worked out even better.
Uncut XL's do like to skid around in rain and ice if you're not nice to them, though.
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/199...ay2081aie8.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
Was that the one where you didn't have the selectros set to lock?
No, that was the climb where my now sitting in the field front bumper was too big to let me get the right angle. That along with the carb issues I was having left me standing on the rear trailer hitch. Driver error could have played a bit too.
Something else about the XL/XZL debate. When DP, Snuffy and Asbestosglove went and picked up a trailer full of both types a year or so ago, they had them all stacked on the trailer. Snuffy told me the XZL stack was about 6" higher for 5 tires than a stack of 5 XL tires. So, they are maybe an inch or so wider.
Here's a pic of the trailer as we were unloading mine (and restacking ALL the tires w/o the pallets). The second stack from the left is mixed, that's an XZL on the bottom.
Thumbnailed as it's 1024x768 so you can see it better.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8...ireshw4.th.jpg
That's asbestosglove on the left, snuffy on the right.
I used 2pc of 'C' channel with a 1/2" in the middle to hold them together, and 1/2" holes in the ends with 4" x 1/2" bolts to push the 'lock ring' down. Also drilled 4 1/2" holes to match the 'lug' holes in the rims to 'pull' it all down. JUST MAKE SURE THE AIR IS OUT FIRST! Cost about $25.00 for it all. I think the 'C' channel was 18" overall, and I bolted them 'back-to-back', so they made a cross (+).