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found a source for a 125.00 plus shipping for all metal troop seats,missing the wood. 3 more sets avalaible. Just trying to make a deal for ALL the sets! Anybody interested? Probably come down if I order all of them to a hundy.Mod please do not delete or move to for sale section. This is a great oppurtunatly for zoners in need. Tick tock...:D I dont want a cent!
Sounds like a good deal to me. I told you that you could find them a lot cheaper than the other source you asked me about.
Heres a pic. Note the middles will have to be cut.There off M38
http://webpages.charter.net/vrod02/t.p..jpg
An M38???? That's a cj5 style Jeep. Are they from an M35 deuce?
Duh M35 sorry.
Bump Who's in need?
I think you all so get on that and get them then have Timmah (aka Binfordm715) make the wood for them...:)
I bought an entire lot of troop seats for the 5 ton off GL for about 90 bucks. Sold the doors and I gave away most of the uprights and brackets- just kept enough to build a set for an M35. I'm not sure that's a great deal considering my lot came with wood and fiberglass, 2 doors for the M939, and some OshKosh Truck door too.
$125 is a great deal compaired to the set for $400 that a fellow Zoner offered to sell a set to him for.Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ Chief
Exactly.Thats what vintage wants as well. I am willing to help fellow zoners out.Happy New Year!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Beast
Could do.... I'd use cedar deck boards (5/4 x 4" [1 x 3-1/2" actual]) the next time around though and plane them down to size (3/4 x 3"). My neighbor says he won't let me abuse his equipment with that rough-sawn oak crate wood anymore! :|Quote:
Originally Posted by k8icu
Cedar isn't as dense or strong as oak, but it would be supported every 43 inches, so it would do fine as troop seat slat material. Plus it would last a good long time in the outdoors, especially painted. I'm going to be making up a set pretty soon to see how they work. I shall report back and include what my neighbor would charge for the work.
One note on those M35 metal brackets though... Perhaps 503m715 will chime in, but I believe he said the seat supports--the part that goes from the edge of the seat portion diagonally down to the floor when the seat is down (the long parts of the brackets in the upper right of your picture) needs to be either cut or lengthened to fit the M715.
I would think that part would need to be shorten to fit in a M715 otherwise the seat will be on an angle.
I think you dont paint cedar! The point of this thread is theres more than one way too skin a BOB-cat.
Paint them if you want, or don't! Stock troop seat slats were painted though. Personally I'm not painting mine as I like the contrast of the wood. If I decide to paint them later, I can. Kind of hard to do the reverse though! ;)
Most of the seat brackets I got from 503m715 were from an M35 too. Since those are so common, it's a fantastic way to go! I just mentioned there might be a slight modification to do to them. I agree, Joe, that they "should" need shortening, but I can almost swear he had to add some length to them. Dunno.... :dunno:
Quote:
Originally Posted by vrod02
Enough pointed comments about Bob. If you have a problem with him personally, keep it to yourself. If you have a problem with him professionally, don't buy anything from him. It's that easy.
Using the one true 715 seat upright and leg section that I got with mine, the seats should sit with a little up angle on them. Out of the 5 m35 uprights I used, only one had to have about 1/2" trimmed off the bottom to match up. The rest where right on. There used to be a great set of pics from Hondo in the members section about the stock radio set up that showed the angle on the seats. It also showed that the radio bracket had an angle on it to bring the radio up and level on the seat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Binford
Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/
I had to lengthen the 4 outside seat legs and shorten the 2 middle legs.In the picture of seat hardware you have, it looks like you will need to add length to your outside upright pieces. They need a longer length to fit in the stake pocket. If you need the measurements, I can get them for you. I offered you a set with all the hard work done for a lot less than you paid for these.
Luckily, the set I got, the corner pieces were longer, like the middle ones in the above pic. I only had to shorten one middle one down to 715 lenght, as the other middle one I had was actually from a 715.
Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/
Not Binfords but welded,cut, installed 5/4 2 3/4 ripped in 3 hours."its just a farm truck"!. less than 2 hundy.
http://webpages.charter.net/vrod02/up.jpg
Did I put the release in the right spot?
http://webpages.charter.net/vrod02/troop%203.jpg
The legs that hold up your seats should go at an angle to the corner of the bed, I've never seen them go straight down to the bed. Those must be homemade.
The leg is correct. It does go verticle when the seat is folded up and out of the way like it is now. The release looks right to me, but I'm going from memory.
Your right it would go verticle when the seat is folded up, but when folded down the seat support I believe sets back at an angle to the corner of the bed and bed side. I don't think they go straight up and down under the seat. Correct me if I'm wrong as I don't want to go out in the shop to look. The center seat support will be shorter I believe and go to the wheelwell. The ends of the seat supports are round for that reason, not flat. Can someone else please verify this.
Yes, the legs should go at an angle toward the bed and bed side when seat is down.
Looks good, man! What kind of wood did you use? I'm thinking of doing another set from cedar deck boards.
That's right about the legs. And when they're in position, the seat will be slightly higher in the front (under where your knees would be while sitting).
The latch on mine is where the bolt holds that slat on. In other words, the bolt that holds that latch on is also the bolt that holds that slat on. Front and back on both sides. Not sure if that's right though. Can anyone confirm? I see Fisherman's is the same way yours is, so that's probably right the way you have it.
Other than his seat legs being too short everything looks factory correct.
Well thats just great!I cut them off.:mad: Never seen them down in a pick before. Oh well they work. Binford treated yellow 5/4 2 3/4 wide.Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
If it works then that's all that matters... :)
Thanks Fisherman. Went out in the garage and found the piece's I'll weld and grind them back on or fab some new legs. Must have been the beers.Duhh.
There angled to keep them from collapsing and more gear room. I also notice the frame legs do not make a complete 90 degress, they stay slightly acute.Quote:
Originally Posted by k8icu
My holders are as pictured in the first pic.
I've had to redo stuff before, looking through beer goggles doesn't always help.
Well, it's a lot easier to drill a new hole than fill one in! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
I have no idea what you guys are saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by Binford
See your latch--the thing that holds the seats in the raised position? Yours is bolted on just inboard of the slat's mounting bolt. I just learned that is the correct position for it. Mine is using the slat mounting bolt position. So to fix it, all I have to do is drill a hole and move it.Quote:
Originally Posted by vrod02
Those look real nice!!