Painting an M715

I'm picking up my first M715 this weekend its a 67 with a 350 CHevy conversion, 4k miles, and its red. I want to paint her the original OD green and from what I read on the forum I'm leaning toward the USMC gilespe green. My buddy who owns a body shop also said I could do a base clear with a semi- or full flat clear.
My questions are
can an first time painter do the gilespe paint fairly easy?
How many years can I expect to get from the paint before its starts to look totaly flat?
Will the base clear last longer?
If anyone had a 715 painted by a shop how much did it run....can't be much to tape off LOL.

If you use the gillispe paint you do not need to clear coat it. The paint comes ready to go. Just thin and spray. And yes you can paint it yourself. I would recommend getting a little extra paint so you can play with it on old car fender or something to get the feel for it and the adjustments to your sprayer etc.

As to how much time you'll get out of the finnish depends on how much you use your truck. If you drive it every day in all weather conditions with out cleaning it etc then about 2 years and it will be flat. If you garage it and only drive it to church on Sunday then the finnish will last a very long time.

If you going to go with a base coat clear coat then you will have to buy some other paint product like PPG or Sherwin Williams and expect to pay 4X more than the Gillispee.

I've shadetree painted several vehicles, motorcycles and items and i have to say that painting with the Gillespie paints was by far the easist to work with. You'll never find a $25 /gal. automotive paint that goes on as nice as the Gillespie did. Spray it in light coats and build it up that way instead of one heavy coat. Both my 715 and deuce are painted with 3 to 4 coats of Gillespie 24087 and have held up very well. I drive my trucks quite a bit in the summer, so they see a good amount of sun, and neither one shows any signs of fading. I would not waste the time with a semi clear over the top as the paint has a real nice semi-gloss that last a long time. When I painted mine, I used 6 gallons of paint, but that was for a full resto and included paint on every side and surface of each individual part on a 715.

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

I will second what Dave said. The Gillespie paint is amazing. I used the USMC 24052 semi-gloss. If you mail order it, you have to pay a haz mat fee. The fee is the same if you buy 1,2,3 or 4 gallons. You might as well go ahead and get 4. I did just about all of my truck inside and out along with another truck worth of extra parts with 3-1/2 gallons. A mini bike too.

OK silly question but whats the differance between the 24052 semi and the 24087? Also will it hold up to heat? the truck has a Chevy 350 in and an I wanted to paint the Engine also.
I should add that the truck will probly be a summer cruiser and maybe see off-road once in a while. Is there anything that can be used to maintain the semi-goss paint? I know wax is out.

Not gonna handle the heat bro. Its a VERY user friendly paint, read the voc.If you want a more durable paint get a matching base coat then clear or single stage urethane with HARDNER.Or wait a month after the Gillespie, a light reducer wash,wet sand, U.V. semi gloss clear.Your best move would probably be the 4 gallon deal idea above.

Could I add a clear semi over the Gillespie paint?

I just walked outside and took these pictures. I painted the heads, alternator, York and air cleaner in June when I had the engine apart last. I have put about 4,000 miles on it since then in the Texas heat doing a lot of heavy towing. The paint is holding up great. Remember that this is a lead based paint. Very hard to beat.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/6894/pc290018qk4.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1292/pc290019xs0.jpg

I painted my block and manifold with regular high temp black from Napa, and used Gillespie 24087 on the valve covers and some accessories and they have held up great after 2 years of driving.
http://www.davidallenracing.com/DSC03280.jpg

As far as differences in color, heres mine painted with Gillespie 24087;
http://www.davidallenracing.com/DSC03771.jpg
And Gunny's painted with Gillespie 24052;
http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/porkchop9.jpeg

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

Yep the difference between 24087 and 24052 is color. 24087 is leans more towards baby shat green and 24052 leans more towards irish green. 24087 is US Army green and 24052 is USMC green.

Yep, 24087 can be a weird color. It definatelly changes with the available lighting. On real bright sunny days, it has a more brownish hue to it, and on overcast days it is more of a dark green. here is my truck in both lighting conditions.
http://www.davidallenracing.com/DSC04291.jpg
http://www.davidallenracing.com/DSC04279.jpg

My kid and I are tearing our new M715 down to the frame. I plan on powdercoating the entire truck, body, frame and accessories. Anyone see an issue claiming stock M715 if the body is powdercoated?

Powdercoated pink? No. Powdercoated OD green or such? Sure!

What do you want to claim stock condition for? The stock forum? There are no hard and fast rules for that here. In fact, lots of heavily-modified trucks may have an issue with a stock component that would be perfectly at home on the stock forum.

My pioneer tool handles and troop seat slats are stained, not painted, and I'm running 11.00x16 XLs. Yet I still consider it stock. To others, they may not be satisfied with that description. It all depends on who you're asking and what your mission is.

Nice pics! Has anybody other than Barrman got cruise control? That is a cruise unit in your pic, isnt it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ColHart

My kid and I are tearing our new M715 down to the frame. I plan on powdercoating the entire truck, body, frame and accessories. Anyone see an issue claiming stock M715 if the body is powdercoated?

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Please explain how you plan on "powdercoating the body"!

Bedliner might be a better choice than powder coat. Powder coat will look better, but you might have a hard time fitting the cab and bed into an oven or dipping them into a tank to make it right.

I have been impressed with the Gillespie paint concerning scratches. I drove all over Kwai's ranch with all kinds of trees, branches, thorns and such scratching against the entire truck. At one point my son leaned out the door and told me the entire passenger side was nothing but scratch marks. I had just finished painting the entire truck 2 weeks before that. I didn't worry about it or wash it. When I pulled off my roadster doors and put the full doors back on a few weeks later, I washed the truck. All the scratches were gone. This paint is great.

Dave in Kansas put bed liner all over his M725. He either had them put the OD green in the bed liner or painted over it later. I can't remember which. At the 2005 Texas FE, Dave drove that box everywhere my 715 with no top went. No damage was done to the paint or the body.

I would be scared of the heat warping the thinner sheet metal parts during powder coating. The same problem with sand blasting them instead of media blasting those parts. Also the extra thickness that powder coating adds over paint, might cause fit and alignment problems when reassembling the truck.

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beast

Also the extra thickness that powder coating adds over paint, might cause fit and alignment problems when reassembling the truck.

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Happens on american Choppers a few times if you watch that....built it all up nice...sent for powdercoat and it doesnt fit due to the new thickness of the parts.

Have any of you ever blasted your own truck and truck parts rather than sending them out? As I start to consider preparation of the truck for paint, was looking at blast equipment.

I own Armor powdercoat in CA. and have been blasting and coating for 10 years. Heat from sand blasting can destroy thin metal and easily warp it, as mentioned by Beast. Blasting of sheet metal car parts can be done with non-abrasive media. I would not suggest you practice on your own rig. Blasting is only one method of cleaning parts. Chemical paint removal, washing and etching is preferred for thin parts and is used in high volume houses where blasting is labor intensive.

Powder thickness control is my specialty with state of the art equipment and proper part grounding.

As a painter, I would think that would be sweet. I've never powder coated myself, I have noticed when you scratch it or chip it it is difficult to touch up. How would you handle touch ups and chips? I don't powder coat but have had stuff done for customers. I am assembling my truck now, and I know there will be scratches and chips in reassembly, however I can repair, touch up or repaint as neccessary. Just wondered how that all works when powder coating lots of pieces. Thanks Fisherman

I agree with everyone. Gillespie Paint was easy to use and looks good. I have used Aervoe and it chipped, faded and was totally unforgiving. My advice is to take your time. Sand and prime as much as you can and then paint in sections to avoid overspray. Be sure to let the coats dry before applying another. It would be ideal to use 2-3 coats at least. It is time consuming, but the end result is worth it. Besides, if your not happy with the paint job, you just bought experience to paint it again later down the road.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ColHart

I own Armor powdercoat in CA. and have been blasting and coating for 10 years. Heat from sand blasting can destroy thin metal and easily warp it, as mentioned by Beast. Blasting of sheet metal car parts can be done with non-abrasive media. I would not suggest you practice on your own rig. Blasting is only one method of cleaning parts. Chemical paint removal, washing and etching is preferred for thin parts and is used in high volume houses where blasting is labor intensive.

Powder thickness control is my specialty with state of the art equipment and proper part grounding.

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How hot does powder coating get to during baking? I think it would be hot enough to warp thin pieces like the hood.

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

Most powders cure when the substrate is at 375*F. Some newer low temp powders are able to reach thermoset at 300 to 325*F. Localized heat changes or coating in local sections may cause warping. Mild steel (1018), even as thin as 26ga with an even distribution of heat (convection oven) and coating will not warp at curing temperatures under 400*F. For example, cookie sheets do fine baking cookies at 425*F.

A huge disadvantage to powdercoating auto skin is the standard bondo used, loses it's bond above 275*F. You have to use a very expensive, high temp metal filler to repair dents and rust holes. Powdercoating has its limitations. All insulated wires, grease, rust, oil, glass and water have to be removed during prep.

You can't just drive your M715 into a booth and powdercoat it, then drive away.:(

Thanks for the tutoral. I didn't know most of that about powder coating.

Do your truck however you want. From you business point of view, I think a complete powder coated M truck would be a great advertisement parked in front of your shop. You obviously have the knowledge and facilities to do it. The rest of us don't and are all Gillespie converts.

Anyone tried 'rust bullet' paint rust preventative paint yet?

when i painted my truck w the gillespie i used "gloss hardner" in the paint, and it has been 10 yrs now and the paint has recently gotten bad but only in like the last couple yrs the hardner really improved the durabilty and it doesnt add any actual gloss just made the paint more durable. Im just not sure they still make gloss hardner since enamel paints are passe for modern cars.

The color issue has me confused-anyone know of a "paint chip" site and or example so I can tell what color my truck was??? The outside is currently a lovely shade of DNR fire control red--the only clue I have is the interior and under the hood. ed if it doesnt look different than every picture on here?? I know it likely changed over the last 40 years but it looks darker than the OD green on Beasts truck but doenst look like the USMC green either?

Here is the color chip picture from Army Jeep Parts;
http://www.armyjeepparts.com/order_p...clean%2003.jpg

It is more than likely 24087, It is a wierd color. Mine looks darker in person than in a lot of the pictures.

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

Pull the data plate holder plate or the door panels. The paint behind those areas is usually the original non faded one.

I never really answered Fisherman's question on touch up of powdercoat. When they make the powder they mix the color, curing additives etc it is in fluid form just like regular paint. Then they dry it. Some companies, Cardinal is one of the biggest, will set aside aerosol cans for touch up. That way you have almost an exact color match... however, when curing, the different temperatures and length of curing times may vary some colors, white is especially sensitive to change.

If you don't get an aerosol with the powder you have to try and match the color, just like in auto repair, which can be a pain. Standard colors can easily be matched and used in touch up. Powdercoat is a bit more of a pain to sand away and repair scratches or dents.

I would recommend using gillespie for most of our work. I'm doing powdercoat just because it will be a great advertisement and it is easy for me. The powder color I have matches that AJPWWII chip in the previous post.

Thanks Dave--I think your right about the color--I believe thats my color--guess I should have waited for the whole page to load at AJP--I missed that the first time. Am I reading the shipping right??? Is it 30 bucks a gallon for the paint and 39 per gallon to ship it??????? Plus boxing and haz mat fee???

Rapco had 4 gallons to my door for $158 and change a month ago. That included the HAZMAT and sales tax since we are both in Texas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomahawk715

Thanks Dave--I think your right about the color--I believe thats my color--guess I should have waited for the whole page to load at AJP--I missed that the first time. Am I reading the shipping right??? Is it 30 bucks a gallon for the paint and 39 per gallon to ship it??????? Plus boxing and haz mat fee???

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That is if you are only buying one gallon. The price goes down when you buy multible gallons because you only pay one hazmat fee and shipping price. The best option is to get a 4 gallon case. When I ordered mine back in late 2004, I got 4 gallons of Gillespie primer and 4 gallons of #24087 green which meant 2, 4 gallon cases. Plus I bought a case of matching spray paint and the total was somewhere around $350. But the paint was only $24 a gallon back then and the hazmat was $22 a box.

Dave
1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomahawk715

The color issue has me confused-anyone know of a "paint chip" site and or example so I can tell what color my truck was??? The outside is currently a lovely shade of DNR fire control red--the only clue I have is the interior and under the hood. ed if it doesnt look different than every picture on here?? I know it likely changed over the last 40 years but it looks darker than the OD green on Beasts truck but doenst look like the USMC green either?

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I've commented on the same thing. Pretty much every M715 I've seen has been neither 24087 (Army) nor 24052 (USMC), but some other green under the hood, inside the glovebox, under the data plate, inside the under-bed stowage compartment, etc.

Look here:

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3...ing003a8vu.jpg

That's the inside of my door panel, an ammo can, a Rapco 24087-painted hardhat and a US Army jerry can holder with original paint, and my Rapco 24052-painted gauge panel.