Hey guys, just doing my brakes on my rig and realizing my wheel cylinders are shot in the rear .... is there a part number I could get locally that would work? stock brakes stock axles?
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Hey guys, just doing my brakes on my rig and realizing my wheel cylinders are shot in the rear .... is there a part number I could get locally that would work? stock brakes stock axles?
Rear wheel cylinders for a 93 Ford E-350 with single rear wheels. Have to hog out the mounting holes a little with a Dremel and cutting bit... or a few hours with a hand file... Just don't hog them out too much.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psbzejfjza.jpg
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psprsbypvy.jpg
Mickey Mouse Ears. lol
And those rear wheel cylinders are a real treat to work on... in the vehicle. Now much room to get bolts started and fat fingers moving :) .
Hope it works out for you.
I'd read a lot about what a pain the rear lines and cylinder bolts were... NO exaggerations there! I was doing hub bearings and seals too so i pulled the backing plates off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Cavey
On the passenger side I also broke the line loose at the Tee and pulled the line off with the plate. MUCH easier.
The driver's side line wouldn't bust loose from the Tee. Over an hour putting that one line back on.
New brake lines are on my to-do list. And I'll be taking the backing plates off to do it.
Thank you...picked them up this morning and made quick work of the mod. I had to do the brake lines anyways....just unbolted the backing plate to give me a few more inches....worked out like a champ! Haven't got around to pulling the fronts off yet. Would the fronts use same part/ require same mod??
Yes, same part numbers left and right. Glad it worked out for ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by Generallee01
Easy peasy with the backing plates off! Might even be worth pulling the hubs off just to avoid working between the plate and the springs!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Von
...uhh... same parts you bought before, one for the left and one for the right... you know what I mean.
The parts numbers are different for the left and the right...I have these numbers:
Tru Torque W37262 and W37263
Left and right are different...front and rear are the same.
Other numbers you can cross:
Raybestos WC 37262 and WC37263
Only know these for one side but they should be able to figure out the other...
Bendix 33595
EIS EW73615
Wagner F73615
These two numbers worked perfectly for me at O'reilly's in Wheatland, WY, over the weekend. They, unfortunately, only had two, and all four of mine looked they had been on the seafloor.Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
We have the bed off the truck, so we removed a u-bolt & pushed the spring retainer plate aside for improved access. Also, removed the hub on one side for a seal replacement & were able to do the hole modification with the backing plate in a vise. I would HATE to do the work we did with the bed on.
Grinding those holes out really eats through Dremel grinding bits. There were no carbide ones in town.
Between the E350 WC's and the Corvette MC (per the thread in the maintenance manual section) we put in this weekend, I'm pretty satisfied. I just need to find fittings to increase the brake line flare size to mate up with that MC.
Thank you very much to whoever it was who came up with these parts interchanges.
Top Tip for modifying the wheel cylinder mounting holes: cut about 4" off the end of a chainsaw file, chuck it into a drill and move it back and forth in the mounting hole while running the drill on high speed. It works really well.