Recreating 10254. (with lots of questions)

First of all, I'm new to M715 ownership -and M715s in general, in fact (I wasn't even aware of them until a few months ago.)

I've recently purchased my own, from a Zone member, serial #10254; referenced in this thread.

My intention is to restore it to as close to its original visual appearance as possible while modifying it to serve as reasonable transportation - including highway/interstate use when necessary.

My M715 purchase included almost an entire truck in spares (minus only the frame and transmission, I think), so my plan is to service/rehab/exchange the spare parts while maintaining a functioning vehicle, to minimize downtime to the extent possible. Luckily, I live one mile from where I work and 3 miles from the grocery store - both well within stock Kaiser range, so I'm thinking I can pull this off.

In addition to returning it to its proper color; to keep it visually stock, I'd like to:

• retain the original axles and wheels (and I am fond of XLs on M715s)

• keep the cabin stock (all appropriate levers in original locations, stock seating, original gauges)

• utilize as many of the stock systems as I can live with - 24v, vacuum wipers, etc. to maintain as much of the truck's soul as possible.

As I'm a novice pertaining to Kaisers and MVs in general, I have a LOT of questions.

For instance, at the outset I know I'm looking at re-gearing the axles to 4.56, and installing the NP205 that came with the truck's spares package to make this thing capable of sustained speeds above 50 or so. I suspect that I might need to consider a transmission upgrade as well (NV4500?) to get into the 60-65 cruising range without grenading engines?
However I'm not certain if I can retain the factory parking brake with the NP205. And, if I were to swap transmissions, I don't have any clue as to whether or not I could retain the original levers in their original locations?

Also, I know that there are disc conversion kits for the stock axles, and that a MC upgrade is in order for safety's sake - and that boosting is strongly advised, but am new to hydro-boosted braking systems. How are they preferable to vacuum-assisted brakes? More appropriate for a military-inspired vehicle?

Currently the truck is 12v. I'd like to return it to 24v, but will need 12v at least for towing purposes - How is this accomplished?
What are the real-world downsides to 24v? Upsides? Why was 24v used originally?

I'm immediately looking at rebuilding the original seats to replace the aftermarket ones that are in the truck - I believe there are multiple options out there for seat kits (same companies that make the soft tops?) - which if any are superior in fit and appearance? What other criteria is important for choosing a seat kit? Can the seat base be modified to replace the spring construction with a modern foam for improved comfort?

(I'll post photos when I figure out where I am hosting them; I've already hit my quota with the images in the M715 purchase thread.)

In any event, after 2 days of M715 ownership, this is my priority list:

• Repair Driver's Window Regulator (window falls down when door is closed)

• Restore Horn function

• Restore Wiper function

• Restore Turn Signal function

• Restore Brake Light function (this should probably be closer to the top of the list...)

• Restore Parking Brake function

• Diagnose (and Correct) Brake Pull

• Re-upholster and Install stock seats.

Thanks in advance for the community support and collective knowledge - I expect I'll benefit from both.

First of all, welcome. I only have time tonight to give my opinion on one of your guestions. You plan on upgrading for better driveability. I initially wanted the same for mine but it morphed. I thought to use my stock axles and did all the modifications to them, disc brake conversion, re-gear to 4:10's power lok both ends. I ended up with aftermarket wheels as well. It's been done, money has been spent. Now for my opinion, too much money! For my needs, after the fact I would have purchased a whole gm product parts truck with a big front brake dana 44. Use all the parts stick /auto whatever your preferance, t-case, rear end etc. Get it all in and rebuild as you go. You will never have a driver with that POS 230. So go with whatever the parts truck had. You will save money and a lot of headache this way. If only I did my research first..... You can easily purchase modern 8 bolt rims to fit your XL's and run a 24 volt starter and a GM Delco one wire alternator to keep your 24 volt system. Look on e-bay. But you might like that big 6 bolt rim??? I did, but..........

Thanks!
How did you do 4.10s?!?


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

I changed the trans and transfer case in mine with minimal trimming for the trans, and used the stock levers for the 205 TC.

Flingarrows, what transmission are you using?


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

From what I understand, putting 4.56 gears in these axles eliminates the transfer case overheating issue. For the xfer case whining, you can relocate the drive shaft and this goes away too.

Your build sounds similar to mine, I kept the stock axles, added hydroboost, Michelin XZL tires, etc. 4.56 gears are in the works and I am rebuilding a spare NP200 and relocating the driveshaft.

I kept the truck with stock appearance and added a few upgrades, 454 engine with an automatic transmission. I even kept the clutch pedal and the TH400 shifter comes out the stock hole at the stock length with the stock shifter knob.

Best thing I have done is add hydroboost, by far. This truck stops well... REALLY well. Vacuum brakes are OK but they don't compare. There is a reason heavy duty trucks (3/4 ton GM, Ford and Dodge trucks, Diesel trucks, 1 ton trucks) use them.

Well, I'm not opposed to good brakes!

I'm doing a search, but what is the Hydroboost for Dummies short version? Can I retain my power steering? Does it affect MC selection outside the typical fluid displacement/volume calcs?

Welcome to the Zone. I am not trying to sound cruel here, so please don't take it that way.

Everything you are asking about has been asked before and has been done before. The replies to this thread show that. You really would be well served to open up the modified forum, use the drop window at the bottom of the page to show threads since "beginning" and read every single one since the beginning. Same with the open and stock forums. It might mean a week or so of reading, but you will gain tremendous knowledge and probably have a better idea of what is right for you.

Members have driven totally stock trucks at 60 mph coast to coast. Many of us have modified them in some way and put thousands of miles on them. Many of us are also on our 2nd, 3rd, 4th or even 5th round of "making the truck like I want."

I personally would suggest you make the truck so it can be driven. Put a note book inside the truck and drive it. Drive it everywhere you go for a week. Write down every time you wanted more power, more speed, a cup holder, a heater, a defroster, less noise, more noise, better brakes, tunes, more storage space inside, a more comfortable seat, more visibility, ability to see the gauges at night, ability to see out the front windshield at night, a/c, etc....

Then, get it off road where it was actually designed to live. Spend at least a day on trails, up hills, down hills, in tight turns, running at idle in low range granny gear and doing obstacles a baby jeep would be scared of. You will be amazed at what a stock truck can do in the mud and dirt. They are truly amazing in that environment. Keep track of your likes and dislikes.

Everything you do in one of the paragraphs above will take away from something in the other. Only you can figure out what will work right for you.

Love the notebook idea Barrman!
Mine is stock. I feel no need or desire to change that. I want the challenge of driving it the way it was designed. That's just me though...
Welcome to the Zone and enjoy!!!!

Thanks guys. I'm actually working my way through old threads, and bookmarking/subscribing as I go.

That being said, I'm also working on the truck and driving it at present.

Notebook is a good idea, I've got one in the battery box to list repair items as I discover them. Adding experiential info is an excellent suggestion.



keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

SM465 in mine Keith.

Tim, I like the notebook idea too

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 67M715

... For the xfer case whining, you can relocate the drive shaft and this goes away too...

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But the transfer case whining is music to my ears. That is what makes my truck a Five-Quarter!

I'd need a big notebook. I just fix what breaks down, and keep going.

Eventually either the truck will be perfect or I'll be broke.:D

Scott

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eimkeith

Well, I'm not opposed to good brakes!

I'm doing a search, but what is the Hydroboost for Dummies short version? Can I retain my power steering? Does it affect MC selection outside the typical fluid displacement/volume calcs?

---

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if I remember correctly the hydraboost works off your power steering pump, not positive but you may have to have a different/bigger pump. I've got a couple of 1ton Chevys parts trucks that I havent removed them off of yet, I'll take some pics so you can see them as they are from factory.

THAT would be extremely helpful - pictures would help me visualize that system.


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

Here ya go, this one is on a '77 1 ton Chevy.

You got 3 lines leaving the Hydraboost, one goes to the gear box and 2 go to the pump, the 3rd line off the pump goes back to the gear box.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps917e41f5.jpg

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0b91c4e4.jpg

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2c12c9e.jpg

It's kinda hard to see here, but the line that is cut goes to gear box.
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d4f9eb7.jpg

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3437cdfa.jpg

Hopes this helps, If you need more or better pics let me know,

Tracy

Thanks. I'm checking out the kit on eBay right now.

No problem. They're a pretty simple setup, if you need anything else just ask.

I have hydro boost. It stop fast
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0086.jpg

Does it cause a weird difference in pedal travel?

More specifically, does it feel out if place compared to clutch movement, throttle movement, shifter throw?


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

Also, you guys are using this with otherwise (except MC of course) stock brake systems, correct?


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

just a quick update - I'm enjoying rolling around in this thing, even in the sort-of-cold mornings/evenings that bracket the work day. The gear noise IS a bit obnoxious, and I find I'm driving slower than usual because of it. That soon shall pass, I'm afraid.

This truck has surprisingly tight steering, clean-shifting transmission, and fairly effective brakes.

In addition to a perfectly effective power steering addition, it has a dual circuit master and new hard lines (although the flex lines are old?!?)
It appears that the addition of hydro-boost to the brake system might actually be limited to the addition of the hydro-boost setup!

Since I picked it up on Saturday, I've done the following:
Zombie Shelter-ectomy (Removed Camper Top)
Front Bumper/Electric Winch Removal - required a reciprocating saw (was welded to the frame.)
Repaired the Driver's Door Window 3 times (next time, I'm putting one of the spares doors on)
Removed the Grant GT steering wheel, installed an original steering wheel and NOS horn button in place of the Jeep one,
Started investigating wiring issues - no horn, turn signals, brake lights. I'm trying to determine why I'm not going straight back to 24v, original harness to fix this stuff...

If anyone wants a camper top or Grant GT steering wheel, let me know.
Also, what is the value of a 12v winch, and how do I test it? I'll need to sell off some of the more valuable stuff to fund 4.56 and hydroboost improvements...

Pictures to come when I recall how to host them on our company website.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eimkeith

Does it cause a weird difference in pedal travel?

---

No, you don't notice, it is just better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by eimkeith

Also, you guys are using this with otherwise (except MC of course) stock brake systems, correct?

---

My brake system is totally stock except the hydroboost and the master cylinder. I had my stock wheel cylinders re-sleeved with stainless. The master cylinder that was recommended to me was from a Hummer H1. It is all aluminum and since the Hummer H1 had large discs all the way around, this thing moves enough fluid for the huge drum brakes.

OK, some I'm up on the photos now, I believe.

Here is what I'm working with:
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

and:
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

First order of business was the Shelterectomy:

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

Stored in the bed was a spare engine, and a THIRD winch:

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

2nd order of business was to remove the 12v winch and welded front bumper (I'll be restoring this to either the Braden winch/bumper (included with the truck) or the standard bumper.

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpghttp://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

This was a 3-blade job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eimkeith

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/M71...%20(Small).jpg

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Sh*t, there's the horn! (I was looking for that to fix it, lol.)

Other than the cancer thats looks like a pretty nice, straight truck. Looks alot better with out that shell on the back.

Thanks. The truck came with enough cancer free sheet metal to make it right, and so long as the frame is still solid enough, I should be in good shape to make a nice truck, I think.


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

quick update: I used a 60,000btu forced air heater to warm the interior of the cab and stretch the top so I could fasten all of the snaps - good thing, too, as it was in the 20s yesterday!

I'm in the process of sorting the spares and deciding the build plan for the truck:
12v/24v?
stock drivetrain/6bta swap?
with/without winch?

Answering these questions will allow me to liquidate most of the spares and hopefully fund the work.

I'm definite about axle re-gearing and brake hydro-boost, thanks to the research opportunities this forum presents.

I've also got seat kits coming from Mona at New Life, so I can get rid of the aftermarket buckets.

I personally thing diesel is the way to go. If for no other reason than the fact the truck can sit longer without the fuel going bad. However, a stock 230 is a very hard engine to kill and since it only needs something like 65 octane fuel, it will eat trashy gas better than just about anything out there.

Have you ever used a pto powered winch on anything before? They are snarling, growling mean critters that pull with amazing strength. I have seen a M715 tied to a tree pick itself almost all for wheels off the ground while pulling another M715 up a cliff like hill side and the engine never even lugged. Totally different animal if all you have ever used is an electric before.

Plus, the winch extensions are a great place to stand when working on the engine. However, the extra 500 pounds of a winch set up along with a 6BT might give your front springs, king pins and wheel bearings a hard time.

Thanks for the data, Barrman.

Perhaps a phase 1/phase 2 approach is in order:
230 and winch until something (230 failure or killer deal on 6bta) presents itself, then diesel w/o the winch to preserve the vintage axles.


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

OK, so I have some evidence of progress:

Welded winch bumper cut off (there will be a late night grinding session to get down to the frame horns)

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1502%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1503%20(Small).jpg



Steering wheel and shifter knob swap (back to original parts)

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1504%20(Small).jpg



Repairing the 12v Turn Signals (signa-stat 900 switch)

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1545%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1544%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1563%20(Small).jpg

and returning one of the original seats to service:

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1558%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1562%20(Small).jpg
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1560%20(Small).jpg



- does everyone get one of these from NLC, or am I special?
http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/1552%20(Small).jpg

Also, I had my first break-down today - the starter switch sparked then failed.

I replaced it with one of my spares, and noticed that the failed switch was of MUCH lighter-duty construction, and was made in Mexico?!?

What!!!??? A forgein made switch failed? They are made from such high quality materials I thought they would last forever......Your spare was probably made in the US 40 yrs ago and works, perfect example of real quailty workmanship.

Yeah, shame we don't have that workmanship now - too expensive.


keith.

(sent from my rotary dial phone.)

More on the Horn Project: in addition to getting a NOS button, I ordered one of the 12v Jeep military horns to replace my universal civvy-looking one mounted under the front of my truck:



(12v on top, my 24v on bottom)

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/m-7...%20(Small).jpg



Back side (24v spare on top, 12v on bottom):

http://eurowerks.us/keith/Kaiser/m-7...%20(Small).jpg


THIS is how I want to approach the 12v conversion! I just need to figure out the turn signal switch and gauges in a similar fashion... ;)