battery cable hookup

i have read the procedure for hooking up the batterys. as soon as i touch the positive lead it starts welding itself to the post. the switch in the cab is off. i have cleaned all the cable ends and where they connect. i put in a new ground from block to frame. the wires on the pushbutton to starter are tight. the only thing not right is the pushbutton on the floor, the top is missing.it still goes in and out though. the starter turns the motor just fine except for all the sparks from the battery,lol, any help would be greatly appreciated because i am at a loss as what to do next. thanks , larry

sounds like a short (+ touching the frame maybe?)
I would check the connection at the floor pushbutton 1st.

i have traced the cables from battery to button to starter back to the dash on/off switch. everything seems to be in good shape. could the pushbutton be shorted out on the inside? i haven`t messed with one in 25 years.

try disconnecting it from the battery side of the starter switch and see if it still sparks when you put the cable back on and if not, replace your starter switch and if it does still, check the battery wire to the disconnect switch for shorting out, then the same thing at the generator and keep trying til you isolate the problem. hope to be of some help. It is ground cable to -, (1st battery), + to -, (second battery), + to starter switch and disconnect switch, isnt it, for 24 volts systems.

yes it`s stock. if you leave the on/off switch in the on position and hook up the ground wire the engine turns over, really fast for a six cylinder i believe. i can find no shorts. i know i need a new starter switch[ the pushbutton on the floor] the top is missing. it still goes in and out , but it seems sluggish. thanks for the help, i will check the dash switch in the morning. 30 x 50 shop and no more room. thanks, larry

by the way is the pushbutton 24volt? and does anyone have an extra? or can i get one at a parts store. thanks, larry

I'd start with the starter switch. Pull the cables off it and see if the battery cables still try to weld themselves.

I have a used starter switch, condition untested. I'll sell it for a days worth of hard times on mr. Sisson. PM or email your address and I'll have it your way soon.

Chris

chris, i do appreciate it. larry

Quote:

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if you leave the on/off switch in the on position and hook up the ground wire the engine turns over,

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Larry-From what you are saying, the Floor switch is burnt out(or stuck on!)
My truck will turn over with the ignition(key) on or off(stepping on the floor switch),but will not start unless the ignition(key) is turned on.
If yours turns over with the ignition(key) on and you ground it, that sounds like the floor switch is stuck.

I agree get the foot starter switch out of there and replace it. On military trucks they will crank when you hit the foor starter switch but wont fire if the on/off switch is in the off position. The on/off switch puts power to your gages and your coil etc. The foot starter switch cranks the starter and that's all. Also check your head light switch and make sure you don't have a proplem there. But most likely it is your foot starter switch.

i quit fooling with it when it got dark, in the morning i will check out the things you guys have told me to check. i don`t want to fry the silly thing in the dark. i need to clean out my shop. i think you may be right on the floor switch being stuck. i don`t even have to touch it to turn the starter, just touch a cable to the battery and away it goes. hope i haven`t burnt anything up. thanks, larry

You might be able to pick-up a "New" switch at your local autoparts store
AutoLite # SW-4012

my light switch will not move into all of the positions that are marked on it. it is probably corroded inside as this truck has set for years. so could that be a source for a short? one that i can`t see? larry

Larry, in a fit of Coors/Jack Daniels induced bliss I deleted all my PM's. Just send my your address and I'll start over.

Chris

Oh yea, the light switch is easy to short if the lock is broken. But that shouldn't screw with the start circuit (I think). Anyhow, readdress me and you oughta be OK with the starter.

the right hand lever that says lock will not move at all now. maybe if i drank some more it would move. thanks, larry

You very likely have a problem that I had in the light switch....get a new one...you can remove the 3 lever switch and take the BIG cannon plug off the rear to disconnect power from it and see if it helps...but it shouldnt matter IF you can put the top lever of the switch in the center position...off...and the lower left lever to off as well. By your description, I too lean on the starter switch...I would disconnect it first and see if the problem goes away....I *think* it will.
Good luck!
brute4c

i have been waiting for the rain to quit so i can get back to work . i will unhook the light switch and see if that works, then the starter switch. thanks guys

i have another silly question. there is a sticker on the back / inside of the cab, that says + to + and - to - . or it will ruin the alternator. the online manual says - to ground. + to -, + to starter switch. can anyone tell me which is correct. i would appreciate any help. larry

Your batteries should hook up as follows. Body Ground to - on first battery, + on first bat to - on second bat. + on second bat to starter. I bet the sticker you have is yellow with black lettering? I beleive that is for jump starting which would make sense to hook + to + and - to -.

Hey guys, in a pinch, you can wire a 12v ford solenoid in place of the stock swith, I ran one that way after the stock on let go right before a parade. Worked great, I even left it in for about a year. The coild side must be center tapped so the only 12v hits it, the switch side of course has 24v thru it. Makes a good cheap temp fix.

That sticker is talking about jumping the vehicle....often when they sat around, the batteries were removed....National Guard motorpool Sarge told me this....so jumping was kinda common.
Also, like Doug said, have seen that solenoid used that way too....dont ask me why it works....I just know it does.
brute4c

i am not understanding what you mean by center tapping the coil side. this sounds like something that could get you out of a jam so i really would like to know what you mean. + goes into solenoid , + goes out to starter. the little bolts in the middle are what you are talking about , right. i know one goes to the coil. both my tractors are set up that way. but i do not know what you mean by center tapping. thanks, larry

i am not understanding what you mean by center tapping the coil side. this sounds like something that could get you out of a jam so i really would like to know what you mean. + goes into solenoid , + goes out to starter. the little bolts in the middle are what you are talking about , right. i know one goes to the coil. both my tractors are set up that way. but i do not know what you mean by center tapping. thanks, larry

A six or twelve or twenty four volt switch will be fine, just find one with the same bolt pattern. If you had all the pieces you could fix it. Normally the rivet that holds the button and contact wears the head off and the contact does it's job, causing the starter to run until the batteries are disconnected. If you have the alternative problem, jno contact, sometimes you can get by with taking the switch apart and turning the contact buttons 180 degrees. I just fixed one on a 27 T Pickup. 77 years of service and the derned thing has to unload while I am driving it!

thanks, i'll give it a try. larry